EVENT HORIZON - 42 custom project w/colored Ti.!! PICS!!

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mmtmatrix

Joined
May 15, 2000
Messages
353
Well, I have had a rather hard week - several things happened including my computer getting a
virus, but it did give me time to do this....


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Yep I turned my BM42 into a latchless and I thermally oxidized the Titanium handles (colored) it!!!! I think I am going to call it EVENT HORIZON in light of several things (including that I risked the life of my 42) I really like how it turned out - I thought it might have been the hour of its death (the 42 when I began this project), but it turned out to be the hour of its rebirth. I am actually not done with this custom 42 project but I could not wait any longer to post some pics and see what people thought. The latchless is very nice, I am/was not a big fan of the latchless Bali but I love it. Its very smooth, quiet and really looks cool. The scan does not come close to
showing what the Thermally oxidized Titanium handles look like- sorry it was the best I could do.
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more pics to come
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They are a lot more shinny and brighter than the picture shows. What do you like more plain of my colored (if colored do you like the multi-colored or would just a few be you favorite)?

Basically I did the basic latchless design (immortalized by Steve), did a few other minor things and then torched handles! I also think I defied the “norm” and used a power grinder on the titanium (people say that it is very dangerous and shy away from doing this because of the toxic fumes and
high heat/sparks that are produced) but I think every thing went fine! Some people (actually several) called me crazy but I think it was worth it and I learned a lot from it. I am very please with how the colors came out and produced a vibrant rainbow effect. (i hope the pics turn out this is my first time posting pics)

I really appreciate the help from Chuck and Steve!!! Thanks again.

What do you think?
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[This message has been edited by mmtmatrix (edited 09-30-2000).]
 
Excellent result.

Now, you have to give us more details: what tools did you use to make the cut? What kind of tourch did you use for the color?

I'm also curious to see how durable your colors will be. My first silly attempt with a butane lighter produced colors alright, but they wore off quickly. Apparently, my lighter didn't get the handles hot enough to get the colors deep.



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Chuck
Balisongs -- because it don't mean a thing if it ain't got that swing!
http://www.balisongcollector.com
 
how flamboyant looking
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totally just kidding on that one

that looks sweeeeeet.
i've always wondered how to get a multi-colored anodization. i'm considering getting an anodized blue 42 and a normal 42 and interchanging the bite handles. it could look cool and would make it really easy to tell which one is the bite handle (blue=bite)
 
Here are a few more pictures of it, I still can not seem to capture the brilliance and shine that the handles have. (there is also a picture so you who have not seen the latchless 42 can see how it looks with the butt caps)

--I can't access my album so I will post more pics later--

Ok basically I just followed the steps supplied by Steve Harvey (I can't take credit for that) Ok what your first supposed to do is remove the latch - for my particular knife this was extremely hard to do and I just skipped it. Then you cut the end handles of the 42 where the latch had been just above the latch gate using a hacksaw with a bimetal blade. This takes an incredibly long time because Ti. is so hard. Once you have the removed the top part of one of the handles you use a file to work the latch gate until you are below the grove made for the latch. This part takes an extremely long time and I ended up using a hand power grinder for part of it (this is not recommended be extremely careful-I have head the fumes produced are extremely toxic and the sparks are very hot and dangerous) One you have the latch gate end cap flat you mark the other handles and do the same to it. I used different grits (240, 400, 600) to finish off the entire knife off. This is where the more tricky part comes in-once you have finished the latchless 42. What I did was to clamp the knife to a bench or table. I then proceeded to take a propane torch and heat up the handles. I varied the time with heat to achieve different colors. (This is the most risky part for the knife comes in-you have to take extreme caution not to ruin the temper of your blade you have to keep the steel cool (I used ice (in a bag and loose) and a lot of caution).

There are two similar ways to color titanium. They are both forms or oxidation. One is Electrolytic oxidation (more commonly know as anodizing) which is electrically oxidizing Ti. Another way is called thermal oxidation with in which heat (torch (flame) or a kiln can be used) is used to color Ti. Both are effective ways to produce amazing colors. I think that it (my thermal oxidation job) will actually hold up quite well- (it is more scratch resistant that anodizing). So far it seems to fare well on the test pieces that I worked with.

mmtmatrix

[This message has been edited by mmtmatrix (edited 09-30-2000).]
 
Great looking work! I have a few questions in regards to the latchless part of the work.
First of all I made my 42 latchless. I used my DREMEL TOOL and the cut off wheel to make the cuts. The Ti ate up about ten or so wheels but the cutting took less than an hour. I did try a hack saw but that seemed to be taking too long and I am not very patient.
I have no idea how unsafe this may be? I wore safty glasses and didn't get hurt so I guess it isn't too unsafe?
I used the DREMEL sanding drum, sand paper and files to get the ends smoothed up some. To the point I am happy with the finish anyway.
Let me say that doing this did expose some rather ugly pock marks. There are some bubbles in the Ti and if you cut into them you will have holes where you will not wnat them. Oh well, live and learn.
Now my questions. First shouldn't the handles on a true lathcless bali come together at the ends open and closed? It is my thought that the reason that they do not come together is so that the latch has some tention to keep it engaged. I say this because I am not sure that this is really the true reason?
I have ground/filed down the kick some but if I do much more the blade edge will make contact inside the handle. Is there a good way to get arround this? I have thought of slotting the handle for the blade but I am not sure if this will weaken the handle too much.
In the open position I have thought about drilling the pin pockets so that the handles will come togethet more but I am not sure that this is a good idea either? Plus I do not feel that I could do this correctly with hand tools. I know if I make the pockets too deep that the blade will be slopy and move some.
I am sure that the space between the handles vairies from knife to knife so these questions may not be much of a concern to you at all. But I would be very interested to read how you address these concerns if you have. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

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Later, Jim
 
The handles do not touch on a latchless. Why not? Tension. It's that tension that keeps the knife rigid. Many of you have probably handled a charming china cheapie, especially one that is well-worn, where the handles do touch and you've see how the blade is loose even when the handles are latched together. That's not a good knife. And, when the knife is closed, the blade rattles around inside of it. Very annoying.

The dangers in attacking Ti with a high-speed grinder or cutter are two-fold, but both controllable. First, burning Ti does produce toxic fumes. It's not drop-over-dead sort of stuff, but not something you want to be exposed to long-term. My suggestion to the weekend 42 chopper would be to work outside where the airflow is good. Second, Ti burns very, very hot. So, clean up the work area before you begin. For example, if you also do woodworking in your shop and have a lot of saw dust around, you really need to clean up before you take on Ti. Of course, always wear eye protection when using a Dremel tool, expecially with the cut-off wheels. Those things can shatter into a dozen little pieces with the slightest torque. BTW, I've found that they're less likely to shatter if you put two of 'em on at the same time.

If you use a hacksaw or file, be careful to clean up the filings. Again, if they are ignited, they will burn very hot.

Boy, an hour is still a lot of work. How long did it take with the hack saw? I'm trying to decide how I want to attack mine.

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Chuck
Balisongs -- because it don't mean a thing if it ain't got that swing!
http://www.balisongcollector.com
 
I had not thought to put two wheels on at a time. Thanks for the tip Chuck. The reason that I went through so many wheels was because I toruqed more than half of them. Fewer wheel replacements equals less time. You may be able to do it quicker.
That still leaves the porosity though! It could break your heart.
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I guess I need to see a true latchless up close and personal to judge how mine should look.

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Later, Jim
 
Chuck is exactly correct-you have to be vary careful working on your handles (Ti.). The fumes are toxic and the heat produced in using a power tool is great. I used a regular hacksaw to cut the tips off and a power grinder to work the handles down (I used it in combination with a file) -- I worked out side for the power grinding part and the coloring part. YOU DON'T WANT TO KNOW HOW LONG IT TOOK WITH A HACKSAW!!! It was a long time..I did it in several increments...probably added up it would probably be about 1 hour (maybe a bit more -or less?) but - not too much. Its not too bad..my suggestion is to get new bimetal hacksaw blade (I think I used 24 teeth per in.) Then just go at it. Yes, you do find "casting imperfections" in the handles but usually if you keep going down (grinding or file work) you can get past them and get a very nice surface. Also like chuck said the reason the handles don't go together is because the of tension and the tang pin.


Knife Thrower-Why would you want the handles to go together (in open position)? You might be able to do this..but there is a very great chance that you would screw something up. I think you should just leave it like it is -- that way the blade is very sold also.


Thank you all for the praise -- I appreciate it. I am happy that people like how it looks -- I am also happy that I was the first to do it
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Thanks
mmtmatrix
 
mmtmatrix I wanted the handles to come together because I thought that was the way a true latchless bali should be. Since I have never seen one, I did not know. That and I think that the handles would look much nicer that way. I think that the tention can be kept so that the "lock up" of the blade would be tight and the handles together, if not completely, very close. The handles on my knife right now are quite far apart. 1/4 inch or more and I realise that for latch tention this was necessary but don not feel that all that space is needed for blade tention.
But as stated above I do not feel that at my level and with my tools I will be able to do much in the way of making this modification.
Keep us posted with your modifications, they look great!

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Later, Jim

[This message has been edited by KNIFE THROWER (edited 10-03-2000).]
 
Use a hacksaw if you do this project. New bimetal blades will saw through in about 2 or 3 minutes, creating no fumes or sparks. Cutoff wheels will take you ten times as long, and with the fumes, sparks, and dissintegrating cutting wheels, be ten times as dangerous .
 
2 or 3 minutes???

I must be doing something wrong-it was like 20 or 30 minutes for me.

Thanks for all the praise I am glade you all like it!!!
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Oh look who it is!!! The first person to make the latchless 42!!! (Thanks for the help Steve)

KNIFE THROWER: I understand what your thinking...I still don't know if I would try it though--that's just me--that could look cool but I love mine how it is
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[This message has been edited by mmtmatrix (edited 10-03-2000).]
 
Hmm... I like latchless balis, but not with the handles shortened. It jsut doesn't look right to me. I might try filling in the notches in the ends of the handles on mine.

--JB

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e_utopia@hotmail.com
 
That's certainly another option, but this what an old-style latchless looks like folks. You can see the example "in the vault" on my site right now. Both Steve's piece and this latest from Mr. Mmtmatrix look great. I'm pumped man. I see a new hacksaw blade in my future?

Steve, what pitch blade did you use?



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Chuck
Balisongs -- because it don't mean a thing if it ain't got that swing!
http://www.balisongcollector.com
 
Steve, I must also have done something wrong. Or I was just using the wrong tool for the job. I have used my saw to cut junk HARLEY frames, the portion with the VIN, to send to HD so we could get a new frame with the same VIN. But I could not get much done at all on the 42? In truth I do not know that much about hack saw blades. Could you be more specific as to brand, tooth pitch and nomenclator?
Oh, just so no one thinks I am a HARLEY theif or something I manage a service department at a dealership.
I cannot stress enough that you may encounter pores in the Ti. The ones I opened in my 42 were very deep. One looks as if it goes not all the way but almost through to the chanel for the blade. I cannot sand or buff them out.
Thanks for the help and the great ideas!


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Later, Jim
 
Yes, I am also curious to see what Steve used... I must have done something wrong. OH well I am very happy with my results.

Thanks again for all your praise!!!

Chuck can't wait to see what you do!!!

Here is n approximate color and time chart that I achieved (just for who want to know) It colors go from less to more heat/time-- a golddish color (light to dark) then to different shades of marron/purple, then to blue- here is where it started to get kind of weird the blue eventually (with more heat) got lighter and then a yellow color then to a kind of an of reddish (light) color then to almost a teal color. That last process is the most unpredictable and I was not expecting it to happen (according to me research)

Thanks
mmtmatrix
 
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