Ever have any luck flattening scales without sanding?

[milkbaby]

In my quest to become a master in the ABH society (Always Be Hoarding), I've bought a bunch of wood scales, some natural, some stabilized by various methods. Sometimes the stabilized scales warp after a few days after they arrive which is annoying especially if they're already cut thin. It's pretty much always been stabilized burl wood that does this.

Is there any way to flatten these a different way instead of the ol tried and true sanding on a dead flat surface? Some of these are thin and I prefer not to lose that much wood if avoidable. I could always use thicker liners but it would be cool to have a dewarping solution.

 

[AVigil]

I wish there were. If you "unwarp" it chances are it will just warp again in time

 

[LARRYZ10]

I always try to buy scales that are 3/8 thick to begin with....1/2 is better. If you get scales that are 1/4 and warped then sand them flat and you might try using .030 black liner material which is hardly noticed on dark wood and looks good while giving you .060 more thickness to sculpt your scales. Larry

 

[kuraki]

I mostly see that happening when I've rubber banded them together face to face, and the outside faces swell/contract. Flipping them over to the other faces will usually correct it to some extent.

This is why I prefer to buy blocks and cut them to scales myself.

 

[Don Hanson III]

I have blocks stabilized then cut when needed.

 

[Geoff Flato]

As previously mentioned I'll buy blocks (or whole planks for woods that don't need/won't take stabilizing) and cut them to whatever size I want on the table saw. With a thin kerf blade you can occasionally get two scale sets out of a block. That really depends on the style of handle and knife though

 

[KnuckleDownKnives]

I was thinking about this the other day as I was looking a set of scales I bought a few months ago that have now warped up while in storage. I've thought about getting some 3"-4" x 1/8" flat bar and cutting some 5"-6" lengths of it, drilling 4 holes in one and tapping the 4 holes in another in the corners putting a set or 2 in between them and clamping them down slightly to hold them flat while in storage. Sure it would take up a little more space, but space used to keep my materials in better shape I think would be a wise move.

 

[Josh Rider]

I think the problem is, and Adam already pointed this out, they are likely to warp again when you don't want them to. When they're on a finished knife.

 

[kuraki]

As I'm thinking about this, I realize that for some reason, this happens more often with stabilized scales I've bought, than with unstabilized scales I've bought (Gidgee from Timber Joint and ironwood from Ironwoodman in particular). It also has happened quite a bit less with scales I cut and then sent to K&G.

Maybe the problem is where I bought those other scales and how they were stabilized, more than anything.

 

[KnuckleDownKnives]

I think the problem is, and Adam already pointed this out, they are likely to warp again when you don't want them to. When they're on a finished knife.

I was more implying doing this before they warp.

 

[Greenberg Woods]

This is one of the main reasons i try to sell thicker wood. Some guys complain that it feels wasteful to have a half a scale left over. The extra space is because sometimes woods warp, stresses are released and so on. Im in Southern California, and any wood i ship out is going to be next to bone dry. If i ship to Florida, Washinton, or any other muggy moist place, the woods can warp a little.

A bigger block means wiggle room. Its why I always suggest buying blocks a little larger than you need. Steel might be cooperative and you can plan out what its gonna do. Wood is a different animal. Or tree. Whatever.

 

[LARRYZ10]

I mostly see that happening when I've rubber banded them together face to face, and the outside faces swell/contract. Flipping them over to the other faces will usually correct it to some extent.

This is why I prefer to buy blocks and cut them to scales myself.

Good point to buy blocks and cut them yourself. I look for the best looking wood that I can get .....sometimes blocks and sometimes scales. I prefer them un-stabilized so that I can send to K&G and know that the process is done correctly. I don't try to get four scales out of a block but I know it can be done. I prefer to put thick scales on my knifes and have the freedom to shape them aggressively to make a fine sculptured knife, hopefully. As always, this is just my opinion based on my experience. I will however say with some authority that trying to get cheap while making a knife will sometimes give you stomach acid and a less than perfect knife... I have done this and it's just not worth it . Cutting waste is a fact of good work in my opinion. Larry

 

[john april]

i have had stabilized scales warp also. i did not think that could happen. i leave the warp and mill one side flat.

 

[Don Hanson III]

All handle scales warp, even micarta. Make em flat right before you attach them.

 

[autogateman]

I have stabilized scales warp all the time, for some reason it's always after I CA glue the liners to them and they've dried overnight. Easy fix. Clamp together with spacer to slightly over correct, and use a heat gun to warm them up. Works every time. Once they're flat I go ahead and epoxy them to the blade, G flex don't care about how bad those scales want to warp! Strong stuff.

Rod