Every stropped knife is Convex Edged and that is the best edge.

Anytime I buy a knife that has convex bevels on it, I use it till it needs sharpening. And then I reprofile the bevels to a flat-v. I won't argue which is best but the flat-v works well for me.
 
Curved guide rods still don't necessarily give you repeatable results from session to session or knife to knife. You'd have to do a lot of careful calibration in order to end up with the same results session to sess

Hi, long time sins we discuss things :)

Everything are complicate to do when you start to do it, after a short time you have learn to do it and it is not complicated at all. Some things takes years to learn, other things seconds or minits.

I dont se any problems what so ever with a convex guide rod or its use. I allways sins many years back, grind and sharpen my knifes in degrees, that have become a habbit - and I also find it necessarry to do it - becouse then I can maintain my edges in seconds. If they are flat or convex do not matter. Convex edges take some more seconds to calibrate then flat edges.

In my world... If I so not know the degrees on my edge and change the edge, I do not know where I started, I do not know where I landed and I do not know how far I have travel. And - what can I lerand from not knowing what I am doing? Absolutley nothing. I will allways start from scratch...

When I know my edge degrees I can decide how muxh I like, or need, to change my edge. After changing I can also evaluate what I have done - and I understand why the edge works different. From that can I learn - and from that point I never start from scratch again, I carry my knowledge with me for the rest of my life.

This means that I normally grind a knife once, after that I only maintain the edge. The first time can take long time to do, all earlyer misstakes must be grinded away and I make just that edge that I want to have. I maintain that edge in seconds without any changes of the edge.mmaintanince sharpening is dor me a continuing of the first sharpening I did.
That saves time and my knifes are allways as sharp as I like to have them. If not, they will be in seconds.
 
None of this changes the fact that a curved guide rod doesn't actually "solve" the "problems" you asserted it does. But I'm not trying to stop you from continuing to use a method that has given you results you're satisfied in. If you needed a truly precise convex edge (for some reason--I can't think of any situations actually requiring such) you'd do better by faceting the blade with flats in the desired angle progression and then blending them.
 
I would consider anything easier than flipping open my folding dmt and giving a few licks when it's needed for a sharp cutting edge. Sounds like a tremendous amount of work lining up the edge, measuring etc just to sharpen a knife. Industrial applications? Sure. But for a kitchen or edc? Not for me anyway.
 
A bended/angled guide rod givs a true convex edge in any degrees you choose.

To make fazets can also do that - with a lot of work, more time - and you can not meassure the convex sphere you have done.

I am, what I know, the first who show pictures on fazetts edge. I made 5 fazetts, 1 mm wide and it was 0,75 degrees between them if I remeber correct, they was parallell from the handle thru the belly and out to the tip. It was many years ago.
I know that method also - and the result.

If I like to make a special form on a convex edge i first make fazetts to get the shape (profile) and then I use the convexing guide rod. But I do not do that often :)

Thomas
 
The knife on the far left with the metal-banded sheath cost me about $5, 44 years ago. But it's a beautifully made Mien/Yao hilltribe knife. The one in the middle with the octagonal handle and deluxe blue plastic drainpipe sheath was about $2 many years later.

I think a cheeseburger meal (~ $4.) is just a bit more than an average farmer knife.

Blacksmiths there will recondition a knife for half the price of a new knife, or less.

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I'd like to visit Laos or Myanmar and get some knives.

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I've been living in northern Thailand for 20+ years. I find it hard to pass up those roadside stands. But the Chang Dao Tuesday market (back before the Pandemic) had several different vendors, each with spreads like this one, and a great variety. Hard to maintain self-control when I see I shape I don't have in my collection. But I especially like the small 8" blade bushcraft knives that the Karen men make and sell in their villages. Thicker steel than the farming tools, and usually a good temper.

Stitchawl
 
I've been living in northern Thailand for 20+ years. I find it hard to pass up those roadside stands. But the Chang Dao Tuesday market (back before the Pandemic) had several different vendors, each with spreads like this one, and a great variety. Hard to maintain self-control when I see I shape I don't have in my collection. But I especially like the small 8" blade bushcraft knives that the Karen men make and sell in their villages. Thicker steel than the farming tools, and usually a good temper.

Stitchawl
I spent about 3 1/2 years in Thailand - 2 in Peace Corps and the rest with the refugee resettlement program. I have some nice Hmong knives they I got in the Hmong refugee camp in Loei. We came back in 1980 and have visited a few times. We have a nice house in Loei that I hope to see one of these days. My Thai sis-in-law is a junk dealer and has given me a couple old knives that are nice. I used to go to scrap dealers in town and find functional old blades I could buy for maybe 10 Baht.

Are you way north? I understand air pollution from burning is quite bad in some areas.
 
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