Evolution Of My 112 Hunter/Sport.

Jsega51 said:
Here I thought your 30 years of experience was in the knife or materials industry.

I know not to use Olive oil in the pivot (because it can get rancid and sticky/gummy). I just wondered if you did or not but I see you’re using something that’s not food safe in the pivot area. That was the only reason for my question. I don’t need a list of acceptable lubes, I have 31 years of experience as a knife collector. Enjoy your Bucks as well! I won’t be buying any for a little bit, I like other manufactures also, gotta spread the wealth!
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Here I thought your 30 years of experience was in the knife or materials industry.
You shouldn't assume anything that I haven't specifically stated.

I know not to use Olive oil in the pivot (because it can get rancid and sticky/gummy).
This isn't true, no matter haw many times you make this claim.

I just wondered if you did or not but I see you’re using something that’s not food safe in the pivot area.
Since I use a microscopic amount,which will not come into contact with my skin,I don't see an issue.A smart person uses not only what works well but which also doesn't present a potential hazard to a persons health.

That was the only reason for my question.
I suspected that your questions were of a more sinister nature and not just that of seeking information.Your last post has confirmed my suspicions.

I don’t need a list of acceptable lubes,
I never offered you a such a list.

I have 31 years of experience as a knife collector.
Since I bought my first knife in 1966,a Puma Game Warden,my experience of 55 years of collecting trumps yours,by several decades.

Enjoy your Bucks as well! I won’t be buying any for a little bit, I like other manufactures also, gotta spread the wealth!

All of us members,who spend time in this Buck forum,certainly do enjoy our Buck knives.I also enjoy buying,selling and collecting a variety of knives such as,Case,Randall Made,Spyderco and Michrotech which top my list but by no means are all that I collect.


Next time you visit the Buck knife sub- forum,perhaps you could post a picture of a Buck knife that you actually own,rather than derail a thread,spread rumors and flog your petroleum/mineral oil.LOL
 
sportingspecialist said:
Here I thought your 30 years of experience was in the knife or materials industry.
You shouldn't assume anything that I haven't specifically stated.

I know not to use Olive oil in the pivot (because it can get rancid and sticky/gummy).
This isn't true, no matter haw many times you make this claim.

I just wondered if you did or not but I see you’re using something that’s not food safe in the pivot area.
Since I use a microscopic amount,which will not come into contact with my skin,I don't see an issue.A smart person uses not only what works well but which also doesn't present a potential hazard to a persons health.

That was the only reason for my question.
I suspected that your questions were of a more sinister nature and not just that of seeking information.Your last post has confirmed my suspicions.

I don’t need a list of acceptable lubes,
I never offered you a such a list.

I have 31 years of experience as a knife collector.
Since I bought my first knife in 1966,a Puma Game Warden,my experience of 55 years of collecting trumps yours,by several decades.

Enjoy your Bucks as well! I won’t be buying any for a little bit, I like other manufactures also, gotta spread the wealth!

All of us members,who spend time in this Buck forum,certainly do enjoy our Buck knives.I also enjoy buying,selling and collecting a variety of knives such as,Case,Randall Made,Spyderco and Michrotech which top my list but by no means are all that I collect.


Next time you visit the Buck knife sub- forum,perhaps you could post a picture of a Buck knife that you actually own,rather than derail a thread,spread rumors and flog your petroleum/mineral oil.LOL
Click to expand...
Would you be so kind as to post your proof that olive oil doesn't go rancid? I am quite puzzled by this unsubstantiated statement.
 
sportingspecialist said:
Next time you visit the Buck knife sub- forum,perhaps you could post a picture of a Buck knife that you actually own,rather than derail a thread,spread rumors and flog your petroleum/mineral oil.LOL
Click to expand...

Am I qualified now to participate here? Purchased on 12/14. I have other Buck knives also.

ld69CS5.jpg
 
USP (United States Pharmacopeia) mineral oil is available at most pharmacies. It safe to ingest, has no usable calories, and can be used as a laxative.
 
tiguy7 said:
USP (United States Pharmacopeia) mineral oil is available at most pharmacies. It safe to ingest, has no usable calories, and can be used as a laxative.
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He should know this since it’s highly documented that mineral oil is safe for all manner of things and is suggested for use on all sorts of wood objects like rolling pins, cutting boards, chopping blocks, wood handled knives etc…Instead he chooses to make it seem like it’s the equivalent to diesel fuel.
 
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Awhile back when I received my Vantage BOTM with micarta scales, it needed to be cleaned up.

So I washed and flushed it out, and then in the process of oiling it I got oil on the micarta.
Well, I decided to oil the whole thing. And I agree, the oiled micarta did look better.

I've also used SnoSeal / beeswax. That seems to work also.

As far as whether something is food safe..... I believe that an edc knife that isn't sanitized before use on food is risky in itself.

And any wood used to process food is risky as the pores and cuts in the wood can harbor pathogens.
 
Yeah, I've seen that. And you're right.......


In my past I've learned that when a State Health Inspector finds a porous food prep item ( ie wood ), they get all excited and want proof that it is certified, and will cite you for it's existence in a commercial kitchen.

Lesson they are teaching, no wood. They want no porous surfaces whatsoever.
I know wood cutting boards that are NSF certified can be approved if your up to the battle. But you don't easily win with them.

We have some wooden mixing spoons here at home.
With my history and my wife being a surgical nurse, we're overly cautious about stuff.
But home exposure can be more controlled than in a commercial setting.

And with many illnesses being food born illnesses, it doesn't hurt to be overly cautious.

Thanks.

Sorry OP.
I do like your oil treated micarta scales.
 
So oil is safe to use on the pivot pin of a Micarta scale? My Buck 112 Slim Pro is just a bit ‘sticky’ on the final close - If it was standard steel/brass lined construction I would have oiled it, but I have held off due to having G10 handles. OH
 
I dont really oil pivots myself. sure if they got wet or had to be cleaned. truth is mine dont open or close that much. so the wear can't be substantial. maybe I'm a fool for not doing it?

I also don't mineral oil stag..

on micarta I dont bother oiling as I prefer the rough worn look and feel... I dont mind the look and feel of polished micarta either though.
 
Old Hunter said:
So oil is safe to use on the pivot pin of a Micarta scale? My Buck 112 Slim Pro is just a bit ‘sticky’ on the final close - If it was standard steel/brass lined construction I would have oiled it, but I have held off due to having G10 handles. OH
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does it need it though? let's see if Jeff has any insight for us on this..... J J Hubbard
 
When the full Chipflint blades came out there was talk that they were not food safe. I like mirror polished blades because it is easy to see if any old junk is on the blade. My Grandmother used to say about dirt "You eat a peck before you die"..
 
One thing about everything constantly being sanitized, your immune system gets weak. I believe if you keep your knife clean and oiled as needed and wiping off the excess oil it isn’t any different than eating a samich with your bare hand if you wash your hands regularly. Reasonably that is not like after every time you touch something.

My folks raised me using all kinds of wooden items and used some oil, usually a dab of grease and sometimes vegetable oil. They would wipe it down good and stow it away. The next use they wiped it down again.

Just think about the old pioneers that had very crude sanitation compared with what we have today and many survived to a ripe old age healthy as an ox.

On my folders and fixed blades I’ve used mineral,olive,penetrating oil, gun oil, clp and regular vegitable oil on the blade and wipe off the excess leaving a very thin film hardly any. Just before using them to cut food stuff I give them a wiping down. I only lube the pivot occasionally when needed or after washing with soap and water but I don’t leave them wet with oil, I remove the excess. Giving them a good cleaning with soap and water after processing game and cutting meat or when necessary is just common since but I don’t constantly clean them for everything. Just a good wiping down occasionally when needed and it’s fine.
 
jbmonkey said:
does it need it though? let's see if Jeff has any insight for us on this..... J J Hubbard
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I went ahead and oiled the joint of my Buck 112 Slim Pro with G10 scales, the blade was sticking just before seating when closed. Some observations: I used a synthetic knife oil (Coon-P by SMKW), it wiped right off the parts of the exterior I got it on - no discoloration at all. It coated the blade tang pretty well and I worked it in and out, blade no longer sticks but nothing flushed out - must have been a slight rough spot on the G10 which the oil smoothed out. As for cutting food, I use whatever knife I have in my pocket on the rare occasion I need to cut food, I wipe it clean and although I've probably ingested something I shouldn't have, it ain't got me yet that I know of. Thanks for your thoughtful input - my knife is now closing like I want it to do. OH
 
Sorry for posting in an old thread,.
sportingspecialist, I need to talk with you. Send me a PM at your earliest convenience.
Thank you.
 
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