Expert advice needed on steel selection?

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Feb 25, 2007
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I would like to preface this question with a big thank you to all the professional knife makers who freely give advice on these forums.

I am designing a bolo/parang style knife and would like some input on steel selection.

It is going to be a large utility blade. Maybe 12"-13" in length. I feel it's primary chore will be light chopping, brush clearing and batoning occasionally to split larger wood into smaller pieces for kindling. It is not meant to replace an axe.

My primary goal is to get as much weight forward for the above mentioned tasks. That is the reason for going with the bolo/parang blade profile.

Now onto the grinding and stock selection. I am questioning the difference between a flat grind and convex edge. My research tells me that convex edges excel at chopping as opposed to full flat grind. So with that said I am thinking about using some stock that is 5/32"-3/16" slightly thicker than your average machete and going with a convex edge.

The two steels that I am considering are 1095 and 5160. The reason is merely a cost consideration. These will also be heat treated by Peters Heat Treating.

Assuming a comparable heat treat, which steel would you use if you were building this project. Also please let me know if you disagree with my thinking about the conex grind as opposed to a full flat grind.

I know that this was long winded but I really wanted to be thorough in my description. I sincerely appreciate your input on this.

Thanks in advance

Paul
 
I am no expert at all but I can tell you that I believe 5160 is often suggested for choppers.

The Ontario Machetes are 1095 and they do hold up well but all rusts very easily if not cared for.

I know that someone wiser than myself will know why.
 
5160 yes.1095 -You won't need the high carbon .A 1080/1084 would be better. Those two are the basic ones though there are fancier alloys you could use.
 
I agree on the convex edge idea. 1/4" wouldn't be too thick either, in my humble opinion.

The carbon-steel guys can tell you how to draw back the temper on the spine after HT; this should give you even more toughness, still with a good hard edge.
 
The Camillus Kukris were 5/16 so 1/4 is definitely not too thick.

to date, I've only used 5160 and I think it makes a good chopper.

I should clarify that in no way do I consider myself an expert.
 
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I'm no expert, either, but I agree that 1/4" wouldn't be too thick. If cost is a concern with the steel, 5160 would be a good choice. Like Mete said, 1080/1084 would be just fine, as well. If cost wasn't a concern, I'd say CPM 3V. It really is the cream of the crop for choppers, from my limited experience with it, but it is pretty pricey.

I like flat grinds with convex edges for every application, not just chopping.

Todd
 
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5160, 3/16", convex grind, full tang. Austenitize at 1525F. Temper at 450F.
Stacy
 
Thank you for all who replied. I think my thoughts have been confirmed and I am going to try 5160. For the first one I am going with 3/16" and we will see how it goes.

I love the idea of 3V but I don't think the cost would be worth it for such a low tech tool. I am not sure the tasks requested would warrant such a performance steel, if that makes sense.

Paul
 
I agree 5160 3/16 or 1/4" either one, make an awesome light chopper. Stacey is spot on on his heat treat. Make sure you quench in a light oil. Mineral oil is great when you dont have access to Parks or ToughQuench.

Jason
 
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