Explaining Edge Retention To A New Knife Guy

Well, the issue would be that 420HC isn't as durable as the steels typically used for survival knives. 420HC is more likely to break than 1095 for instance.
True. I was really just using 420 as an example it was the first thing that popped into my head. What I was getting at is wouldn't it be better to have easier to sharpen vs. Holds an edge for extremely long but impossible to sharpen without diamonds? In a situation where you're stranded for a very long time and wouldn't have access to diamond, cbn, etc?

I think 1095 is kinda the best of both worlds in that regard
 
True. I was really just using 420 as an example it was the first thing that popped into my head. What I was getting at is wouldn't it be better to have easier to sharpen vs. Holds an edge for extremely long but impossible to sharpen without diamonds? In a situation where you're stranded for a very long time and wouldn't have access to diamond, cbn, etc?

I think 1095 is kinda the best of both worlds in that regard


When I go into the woods I'm taking 1095 and M4.


The idea that a BF member is only of carrying one knife is silly
 
True. I was really just using 420 as an example it was the first thing that popped into my head. What I was getting at is wouldn't it be better to have easier to sharpen vs. Holds an edge for extremely long but impossible to sharpen without diamonds? In a situation where you're stranded for a very long time and wouldn't have access to diamond, cbn, etc?

I think 1095 is kinda the best of both worlds in that regard

I agree on this....I'm also of the camp preferring easy to sharpen when it comes to bush/survival. And yeah, given a pref I'd take the 1095 too but I wouldn't turn down the 420. I'm trying to imagine being in a snowfield for two weeks with ZDP or some Super Hero steel needing an edge. I've sharpened good carbon steel on a lot of river rocks, boot heel strops and various unidentifiable hard things.

I'm the same way about moving parts in a bush folder. Same situation, even if it's just theory, I'll take a basic frame lock with bushings. The 'ol Axis lock, ball bearing-driven folder may be a good 'un but some day....in a mud and muck world...that lock will break and those bearings are going to need maintenance.
 
When I go into the woods I'm taking 1095 and M4.


The idea that a BF member is only of carrying one knife is silly

I had to chuckle at this for a couple of reasons. I used to carry a larger knife, a small folder, and a hatchet or saw. Now I carry a relatively small fixed blade, usually a Mora classic with 3" blade or whatever is the EDU of the week ( I do not camp with folders as a rule - would rather have a small FB than a larger folder). My hatchet does 95% of everything - fuzz sticks, improvised tent stakes, firewood (on a recent trip I used it to cut the wedges and then split a beech log, 8" (approx) diameter lengthwise. The log was about 7-8' long. I don't know about dressing any game with it, am sure its possible but have never seen anyone remove the gut from a large animal using only a hatchet...I use my small knife to cut paracord and food packaging, though the hatchet can do this as well.

That said, all my hatchets sharpen easily, take beating, and do most everything one could ask. I have also used machetes in this role and while they do not pound well as a hammer pol, they cut wedges etc very well and a chunk of hardwood can stand in for any serious pounding that doesn't involve steel hardware.

For hard use I have an affinity for stuff that sharpens well with improvised or simple means. Even super steels can take a hit that will trash the edge - is better to have steel that is repairable (my opinion) if away from the conveniences of home and that edge is paramount to survival or reasonable comfort.

Edge retention is such a complicated topic, as it really boils down to a trade off between the steel type+HT and the material to be cut influencing edge finish.
 
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