Extreme testing 1

Joined
Jun 18, 2000
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Hello one and all,

It's that time again.
The time to sacrifice a few knives in order to gain some knowledge and insight.

As some of you know, every so often I lose my mind and destroy some knives that I have bought or aquired--don't ask why, it's a sickness of some sort I'm sure.:(

Here are a few "tests" that I have done in the past:

Not too long ago I sacrificed several of my knives to see how they would fail.
One of those knives was a FRN Delica.

I fixed it in place and caused the lock to fail (using only my arm strength and no other mechanical leverage).

Here's how it failed: The handle deformed and stretched/tore at the locking-bar-pivot-pin on the right side. This allowed the lock enough movement to slip out of the lock-notch in the blade.

I did the same test on an old Zytel Bucklite and a newer Zytel Bucklite. They failed the same way as the Delica (although the Delica took much more force before failing).

I also did the same thing to an old Case lockback that had a broken blade tip (the Case is very similar to the Buck 110--made of brass with wood scales and has a shark depicted on the blade).
The Case took an enormous amount of pressure before it failed, and when it did, it was because the locking-bar-pivot-pin broke. The handle and blade were otherwise unaffected.

I did'nt stop there.
Since the knive's locks were already broken, I decided to test the blade pivot with twisting and lateral pressure.
On the Delica and the two Bucklites the handles eventually broke around the pivot.
The older Bucklite virtually exploded and shattered (maybe because it was old Zytel), the newer Bucklite tore rather easily with little force, but the Delica was tough to the bitter end and did not break easily.
The Case lockback handle never did fail, the blade snapped off at the handle.

And this one too:

THE SYRUP-AND-SAND TEST:
The contestants were:
Benchmade 556 (Axis-lock)
Spyderco Rescue (lockback)
CRKT M16-03 (liner-lock)
Timberline Timberlite (Neeley-lock)
Gerber Para-frame (Frame-lock)
Kershaw 2950 (Opinel lock)

After coating them with syrup, I then buried them in sand (the knives were closed).
After digging them out of the sand I removed all the excess sand that I could and tried to deploy the blade.
ALL FAILED.
None would open and lock, but the Benchmade 556 came the closest to actually locking.

I then washed them clean, recoated and re-buried the knives, but this time with them open.
I dug them up and removed the excess and then tried to work them closed.
The CRKT M16-03 and the Timberlite were the only two that would not close.

I then washed them in a bucket of water using only my hands--afterwards they all functioned properly.

THE HIT-AND-RUN(over) TEST:
The contestants:
All of the previous knives used in the syrup-and-sand test and a few extras:
Spyderco SS Endura II
Spyderco micarta Calypso Jr
Benchmade 722

I placed, two at a time, the knives behind the rear tires of my Ford Explorer Sport-Trac (I was on my concrete driveway, the bed was empty, and the knives were closed).
I backed up over the knives so that both the rear and front tires hit them--and then I ran them over again going forward.
So that one rear tire and one front tire hit the knife twice.

I'm happy to say that there was no real damage at all.
The Gerber Para-frame got a little scuffed, as did the CRKT M16-03.
On the Benchmade 556, one thumbstud (the one touching the concrete) was a little "chewed up".
But all knives worked just fine afterwards.
I was impressed.

THE DROP-ZONE:
I knew that this would be the most damaging of all the tests,which was why I did it last.

The contestants:
The same ones as in the hit-and-runover test.

I dropped the knives off the roof of my two-story home and on to the concrete patio.
I did this three times--but I should have stopped at one drop.

I would love to say that all of the knives survived without injury, but that was not the case.

Benchmade 556:
The Axis-lock came through with flying (literally) colors.
After all three drops, the lock works fine.
OTOH, the handles did suffered some damage.
Scuffs all over the edges at the butt and pivot ends.
And a small split occured at the pivot end on one side right above the liner.
The back of the handle is also separating and, with the blade open, light can be seen through the back of the handle.
But the knife is still 100% functional and passed the spine-whack-test.

Gerber Para-frame:
The blade opened upon impact all three times resulting with a small amount of tip blunting.
The lock survived and works great and passed the spine-whack-test.
The frame/handle suffered only small abrasions on the pivot and butt ends.

CRKT M16-03:
Virtually the same results as the Gerber.
It also opened with each impact.
And it also suffered only minor scrapes on the ends, and the lock is also fine.
It also passed the spine-whack-test afterwards.

Spyderco Rescue:
Suffered only minor scrapes also at the butt and pivot ends.
The lock works just fine and passed the spine-whack-test.
The FRN impressed me very much.
The blade actually open on one impact but not on the other two.

Timberline Timberlite:
Suffered only ONE small scuff on the corner at the pivot end.
This was also the lightest-weight knife in the test.
To look at the knife, you would never suspect the abuse it has suffered.
The lock works (as much as any Neeley-lock) and has passed the spine-whack-test.

Spyderco micarta Calypso Jr:
The micarta was scraped and scuffed on the butt and pivot ends to about the same extent as the FRN Rescue.
Unfortunately, the handle separated at the pivot and the small washer or disc around the pivot-pin has come off.
Surprisingly, the lock still works and the knife passed the spine-whack-test.

Kershaw 2950:
This cheap little folder did not survive at all.
The locking collar came off, as did the rubber grips, and a piece of the handle broke off.
I suspect that the broken handle actually might have occured during the hit-and-runover test, but the damage was hidden beneath the rubber grips.

Now the two that surprised me the most:

Benchmade 722:
The knife still functions and the Axis-lock is still rock-solid (and passed the spine-whack test too).
This knife opened on one impact but not the other two.
However,the G-10 scales did'nt fare so well.
On the butt end the one scale has a sizable "chip" right at one of the nuts that hold the scales together.
And at the pivot end, that same scale has developed a split, as if two of the G-10 layers are separating.

Spyderco SS Endura II:
This one suffered the most damage of all the knives.
The butt looks more chewed than a West Point cadet's, and the pivot end looks even worse!
In fact, the pivot end of the scales are bent so far inward that it prevents the blade from being fully opened.
This was also the heaviest of the knives tested.

So, now I'm ready do do some more "testing" and I would like your input on what types of tests the knives should suffer.

The test-subjects will probably be these knives:

Schrade Uncle Henry LB7 (lock-back)
Schrade Old Timer 6OT (lock-back)
Gerber Game Pro (frame-lock)
Gerber Gator (lock-back)
Spyderco Vesuvius (compression-lock)
Myerco Bolt-Action (bolt-lock)
Camillus 695 Marlin Spike

All recommendations are welcome.

Thanks,
Allen.
 
Post edited due to me being a big smart-ass with people I don't know.

Sincere apologies to allenC.
 
Post edited due to over-reaction of a smart-ass, but harmless, comment from Ritt.

Ritt, No apologies needed--we're cool.

Thanks.
Allen.
 
Send me the Spyderco Vesuvius. I will test it for you.;) :D

Thanks for the info. It is nice to know the limits of the knives we carry. I think you may have out Cliff Stamped Cliff Stamp.:D Those are some real durability test.
 
wow you've got alot of time on your hands. but great post and fascianating information. keep up the good work allenC.:thumbup: :thumbup:
 
Really interesting tests, Allen. Thanks for sharing your findings.

I've always suspected that the weak point of folders is their ability to take lateral stress, as when they are used as pry bars.

Even though folders are not designed to be pry bars, it's not uncommon to get into a situation where that is exactly what you need them for.
 
allenC said:
Ritt, Gee thanks alot for your contribution.:rolleyes:



Have'nt you ever wondered how much muck it would take for your knife to fail to lock-up?

Have'nt you ever wondered what would happen to your folder if it fell out of your pocket in a parking lot and was ran over while you were in the store buying some beer?

Have'nt you ever wondered what would happen to your folder if you dropped it while working on your roof, or while rock-climbing?

Maybe you live a charmed life where nothing bad ever happens to your knives--but if you're not interested then feel free to ignore this thread.

BTW, some of the knives survived my testing.

Have a nice day,
Allen.

Ritt said :
but it seems like the point of your previous tests has been more along the lines of figuring out Wile-E-Coyote type ways of destroying the knives.

Actually I think Ritt's quote is rather funny.....I can only imagine what else he said as it has been edited. But Allen.........have a sense of humor here.....what do you want.....a Nobel prize in science for throwin' a bunch of folding knives around and covering them in pancake syrup ? One must admit with all due respect to you.....there is a wee bit of the absurd at work here !....and what I really want to know is........did you crack the concrete on the patio.....and why would anyone throw things from a second story window on to his patio !!???:D

-Keepin' it light !
Regards
 
Allen, you could :

-examine the locks under extreme cold, do they still work, add water (simulate rain) and let it freeze and repeat

-in the kitchen can you work on frozen foods, pry them apart or cut them

-open a pain can

-do some of the impact and drop work with reduced temperatures

-check the locks after fruit juices have got around the lock and dried, people have noted issues of sticking and failure to engage

-for heavier work, can the knives function as drills, chisels, and wedges on wood

-how durable is the clip, what happens if the knife snags, where does it break and how much force does it take


-Cliff
 
Cliff Stamp said:
-check the locks after fruit juices have got around the lock and dried, people have noted issues of sticking and failure to engage

Use a peach, stickiest fruit I know of!
 
You could open them up and throw them at a wooden target a couple hundred times each, check their function afterwards.
 
It might be interesting to place the knives in water and freeze them solid to see if they will be damaged by water expansion.
 
OMG, allen has a lot of imagination but the rest of you are insane hehehehe, I'm really willing to see the pressure cooker experiment :D

What about heat? A soldering iron or something like that...

Btw, thanks a lot for your tests, I'll never be able to do such things to my fixed or folders...
 
You could always test the knives for bone penetration by pushing the blade into your forehead. Oops, I forgot, I did that once. I seem to be forgetting things these days. Never mind.
 
Allen, please ignore the maroons. :D I'd love to see you do more tests, either similar to your first set, or more like Cliff's suggested torture.

I just don't have the balls to do this to my own knives. :thumbup:
 
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