F1 or Esee 3?

I have owned both at the same time and kept the F1. Better ergos and no choil were the final decision makers for me. I did not like the 3's thin handle & choil at all, but that may just be me. I say F1.
 
Thanks for all the feedback.... now to complicate it, I just discovered the Survive! GSO 4.1. Of all three knives the GSO 4.1 is the most aesthetically pleasing (to me)

I like the the idea of 3V steel as well.

Too many knives, too many choices
 
F1 would be my choice; more expensive or at least mine was a lot more expensive. When I bought it, it was close to being the most expensive fixed blade I owned. I have purchased customs for less (and more). The F1 is a great general use knife and highly recommended. Eventually we all have to learn how to sharpen a convexed edge.

Added: The Survive GSO 4.1 is very appealing to me as a woods knife. I will eventually buy one although I am looking forward to one that ESEE is bringing out later this year.
 
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I love my ESEE-3 just about as much as I do my Spydies & Customs and when I go I am taking them all with me.!
Now all you have to know is where I am going to be buried.!** LOL
 
Now, if you're going to throw a GSO 4.1 in the mix, then I would probably go with the GSO 4.1 :D

To make it even more complicated, one of the most famous deer dressers of Youtube, virtuovice, favours a Gunny or Bravo LT.

Personally I still would go with the F1 or GSO 4.1 though. Here the link to the reviews of the F1 I mentioned earlier by the way.
 
This is a Rat 3 which I think is similar to an ESEE 3, F1 and GSO4.1 in M390.

For me, the F1 is a is a great choice for a very usable knife in a compact package.

If your looking for something more robust the GSO 4.1 may be the way to go. The 3v or the CPM-20cv stainless is going to be an upgrade in steel and cost a bit more.

I was never very satisfied with the Rat3. The handle is rather small and it doesn't cut very well. Even with the thinner blade and a hair popping edge its a struggle compared to the other two knives. I think it is too thick behind the edge and some removal of material would improve its performance. I ended up giving it to my son when he was twelve.
It fits his hand pretty well.

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Wow, those pics really put all three knives into perspective.

Knowing that I will always have folder with me for lighter work, I think the GSO 4.1 may be the way to go.


FTR-14c said:
This is a Rat 3 which I think is similar to an ESEE 3, F1 and GSO4.1 in M390.

For me, the F1 is a is a great choice for a very usable knife in a compact package.

If your looking for something more robust the GSO 4.1 may be the way to go. The 3v or the CPM-20cv stainless is going to be an upgrade in steel and cost a bit more.

I was never very satisfied with the Rat3. The handle is rather small and it doesn't cut very well. Even with the thinner blade and a hair popping edge its a struggle compared to the other two knives. I think it is too thick behind the edge and some removal of material would improve its performance. I ended up giving it to my son when he was twelve.
It fits his hand pretty well.

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topher89 said:
Wow, those pics really put all three knives into perspective.

Knowing that I will always have folder with me for lighter work, I think the GSO 4.1 may be the way to go.
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I had a feeling you were going to like those photos. It helps when you can see them beside each other.

The F1 is incredible but if you will always have a folder with you it may be redundant.

If you can find one and don't mind dropping the coin you wont be disappointed with the 4.1

If you want to go a little bigger, one of my newer blades that I can't get enough of is the Tops Dragonfly. Its 1095 and nothing special but that thing cuts like crazy and has a good handle. The blade is uncoated, has great geometry and only 1/8th thick..
 
I have a new ESEE_4 (just moved it so I can type). Like the size, weight, ergos and choil but I do wish the blade were a tad thinner.

Sorry, but the F1 looks like a paring knife and with no choil I'd always be putting my finger on the blade when doing detail work.
 
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I'd go with the F1 as well. It really is one hell of a blade. I had an S1 too, but sold it. I hung onto the F1.

Sharpening a convex edge is easy! If the knife still has an ok edge, but needs to be freshened up a bit, I run it on a glass smooth steel. If it is a little duller, I put a piece of very fine sandpaper on a mouse pad and strop. A couple of strokes per side, alternating, and trying to hold a consistent angle. If you don't know if you are hitting the edge or not, color the edge in with a black marker. When the marker is gone you are doing it right. After the sandpaper, switch to a leather strop (loaded or unloaded is up to you). You will keep your convex edge and after just a few times you should be able to get a screaming sharp edge!

You can use your sharpmaker to sharpen it, but it will turn it into a V shaped edge instead of convex. Nothing wrong with that, but since you are buying a knife with a convex edge it would be good to know how to maintain it. It is a lot easier to me to sharpen a convex edge anyway. Just strop......
 
I am lucky enough to own all 3 knives being considered and have a couple of thoughts but let me preface by saying that I really doubt that you'd be disappointed by any of these knives.

I had an F1 first, and still own a Barknieven F1 with a Bark River handle in VG10. As Big Mike said, this is a terrific knife although the Barknieven version adds both cost and weight - for me this is outweighed by the looks and comfort added.

The Survive 4.1 is a nice knife. Mine is in the M390 steel as I live in Malaysia with high humidity and the added corrosion resistance was a pull (plus, I had never used this steel!).

Finally, the ESEE 3. A really simply knife but the lightest of all 3 in the hand but with the sheaths a they are pretty much a wash:

Weight (Knife Only) Ounces: ESEE: 5.2 GSO4.1: 6.6 F1: 6.0
Weight (Knife w/ Sheath) Ounces: ESEE 9.3 GSO4.1: 9.2 F1: ? (I will add that the GSO sheath is my favourite of the standard sheaths)

Plus the ESEE 3 with 1095 Carbon Steel, 55 - 57 RC (vs GSO4.1 at 60 RC and F1 VG10 at 59 RC) is MUCH easier to sharpen if the knife gets dull in the field (whatever your method). So the hardest steel to resharpen in rank oder of most difficult to easiest would be; the Fallknieven 3G, then the GSO 3V, then Fallknieven VG10 then the 1095.

Finally, there might need to be considerations of corrosion resistance although if you are actually using the knife there are plenty of people out here an elsewhere using high carbon steels like 1095 with no problems at all (as long as you don't mind the knife looking like a user). For what it is worth my stripped ESEE Izula 2 sits on my bet under my shirt, against my skin all day here (in heat and humidity) and I have no issues.

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[/URL][/IMG] (Pic courtesy of Ian Atkinson - UK creator of the custom sheath)

Like I said at the start, I don't think you'd be disappointed with either of the 3 options you outline.

Good luck making your decision...

Ben
 
Stropping is the way to go with a convex edge. You can make it hair popping sharp pretty easily.
 
Hey I agree - almost all of my fixed blades are convex and I do think it is easier to maintain. I have convexed my ESEE's too, and lets face it almost all free-hand sharpening is somewhat convexed anyway. (FWIW, I do keep most of my folders with a V edge.)

My point was once they get properly dull (if you let them get to that point) the softer 1095 is substantially easier to bring back to a good edge. ;)

Ben
 
topher89 said:
Wow, those pics really put all three knives into perspective.

Knowing that I will always have folder with me for lighter work, I think the GSO 4.1 may be the way to go.
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Do not judge a knife on its looks. To disqualify the F1 because it looks inferior would be a mistake. A folder cannot imho replace the F1 at its price point. A folder of the same quality will cost 3x as much. How I see it.
 
Peroni1973 said:
Hey I agree - almost all of my fixed blades are convex and I do think it is easier to maintain. I have convexed my ESEE's too, and lets face it almost all free-hand sharpening is somewhat convexed anyway. (FWIW, I do keep most of my folders with a V edge.)

My point was once they get properly dull (if you let them get to that point) the softer 1095 is substantially easier to bring back to a good edge. ;)

Ben
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...there's a lot to be said for ease-of-sharpening. 1095 can be a pleasure when you just want to get a good edge on your knife without feeling like it's a chore.
 
I had a F1 and sold it. As others here have said, if you get the f1 just learn to sharpen a convex. It is one of the sharpest blades I've ever received from the factory and it would just be a shame to ruin such a beautiful convex.

Now, I wouldnt get either knife as the grips on both are not very good in my opinion. I'd recommend something with a friendlier grip that wouldnt have hotspots. Maybe a Bark River, Blind Horse, or Koster
 
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Gramps said:
...there's a lot to be said for ease-of-sharpening. 1095 can be a pleasure when you just want to get a good edge on your knife without feeling like it's a chore.
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What he said (in less words than I used - thanks Gramps!)

Ben
 
topher89 said:
Need a fixed blade recommendation. The knife will be used camping, backpacking and hunting. That means creating kindling, light batoning, processing wood and field dressing deer, grouse, turkeys and trout.

I have narrowed it down to a Fallkniven F1 or an Esee 3.

I am really leaning towards the F1 but am concerned about sharpening. I know they come with a convex edge and I have never sharpened one before. I run a Sharpmaker and really like the system. Could I buy an F1 and use the Sharpmaker to resharpen it?

Thanks!
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I hate coated blades for cutting meat, I believe that I can actually feel the coating dragging on a deep cut.

Between the 2, the F1 is far superior. It's worth learning to sharpen a convex edge, once you pick up the skill you'll love the way that the knife cuts, and how strong the edge is. VG10 is a great steel, regardless of what newer stuff comes out.
 
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