Fabrication question - Any opinions on what dry cut saw to get?

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Sep 21, 2013
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For welding up brackets and carts and fixtures and whatever. I have a plasma cutter and a portaband that is set up vertically. I want to add a dry cut saw and am trying to choose between the evolution, Makita or Dewalt options. They are all in the $3-500ish range.

I don't have room for a large bandsaw, unfortunately.

So far it looks like the Dewalt blades can be sent out for sharpening but Makita's blade it comes with cannot. Maybe there is no practical difference.

Anyway If anyone has an opinion I would appreciate it.
 
I have the Dewalt and am happy with it. I also picked up a Milwaukee Fuel 18v metal cutting circular saw and it is amazing for small quick, clean, cuts, although it will handle a 1" bar no prob.
 
Typically any blade that comes on a saw I will toss and replace with a better blade. I have used the Lennox circular blade and it cuts mild steel like butter. Durability wise I would say they are on par but I would try and get my hands on them and see which features you like better. Dont forget about Ridgid and their lifetime warranty.
 
I have a Makita 7" hand held dry cut saw and it is awesome. I built a 32' gooseneck trailer and cut all the members with it and the blade that came with it. Great saw.
 
My experience with the 14" dry cut saws is only with Evolution- the saw itself is great, and holds up fine. I made a LOT of productions cuts with that saw over the course of years. It would run all day sometimes, 10 or more cuts per minute.

The table on it sucked though, we had to build it a better one based on a big aluminum pivot plate, and it could be touchy at times to get it to cut square.
Also the guard retraction mechanism has a bushing in it that you will learn to replace every few months with heavy use. Make a micarta or UHMW one to replace it, it'll last longer.

When you learn to be careful with your blades, they can last a long time. Watch anyone who comes over to work, they can smoke that $100 blade faster than you can prevent it, even if you give them the "only cut if you KNOW it's mild" speech beforehand.

I've used Evolution and Milwaukee 7" dry cut saws, both were fine, but the Milwaukee was a heavier better design.
 
Thanks guys.

I think it will be one of those tools that only I will use. If someone is working with me they can be the one prepping the weld surfaces or grinding welds off or whatever.
 
Would you guys mind enlightening me on the differences between a dry cut and a chop saw with an abrasive disk? I notice the dry cut seem to be a it higher in price and I'm guessing the blade lasts longer but I really have no idea why I would purchase it over the chop saw? One can never know too much about tools :)

-Clint
 
A dry cut saw has got tungsten carbide teeth, and works pretty much a like a chopsaw for wood. I think the blade turns somewhere from 1400-2000 RPM depending on the saw. It's loud but cuts fast, at least on tubing and structurals, does not require coolant, and leaves a nicely finished and more precise cut than an abrasive chopsaw or even a bandsaw. In my experience they do not shine on thick solids, and of course anything hardened is a no-no to cut with that expensive blade.

It's good to have both, that abrasive chopsaw is better for quick, rough cuts on just about anything, high carbon, 4" solid rounds, whatever...
 
What Salem said, not to mention that the dry cut saw won't cover the shop in abrasive blade dust.
 
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