Fail to plan and you plan to fail

[Sam Salvati]

Trying my first close to all stock removal blade (I forged the tip in and stretched the tang out). Because I am starting with even thickness barstock, I grabbed some dykem blue from my job :thumbup: and a set of calipers and actually layed out a blade (on edge) for the first time. Let me just say WOW! What a huge difference that makes when grinding! I am used to keeping the edge and spine centered and straight in the forge, then trying to grind those down and keep things centered, but this was just so easy! I just have one question for the veteran forgers out there, how do you layout a forged peice? Is it not really possible, do you have to go completely by eye when grinding? I just cannot figure out how to layout a forged blade. When you forgers forge a blade, how far do you go? Just the profile? Profile and taper? Profile and taper and bevels a little bit?

 

[stephanfowler]

i start by flatting the spine, then i grind the flats 90 deg to the spine, then layout just like i was using PG stock

it gets MUCH more interesting when there is thickness taper (which is about always for me)

you have to take the calipers, find the amount of taper, divide 1/2, shim the tip, scribe your line (sort of, easier to show than to describe)

 

[Deweyknives]

Sami, we should get together in the Adirondacks this summer. My bro-in-law lives there,low cost play weekend,'cause he LOVES to play too!! :thumbup:

I think everyone developes their own style and process and gets a little closer each time. I've gotten to about 80-85 percent to shape. Starting bevels, squaring ricasso area and a few low heats with a smooth light hammer to flatten out the surface. Just jump in there and start hammering & shaping, after a few it starts to make sense!! I still end up with twist, unstrait blades. After the first clean-up on the belt,I usually end up heating and straitening. I look at it as an extra normalizing heat!!

I do all mine by eye. I have pieces of corian w/ 1/2 sheets of sandpaper glued down. One or two passes and I can see high & low spots and 'feel' if the blade is strait and adjust my grinding fron there.

 

[Sam Salvati]

Stephen, much easier to show than to explain but I think I get the idea of what you are saying. If you scribe with the shims on the tip wouldn't you grind away your taper though?

Randy that would be awesome! You gonna make it to Ashokan? I am not having any problems doing the forging parts, fixing the twisties and stuff, I am having trouble figuring out how to layout the edge and spine thickness marks to grind down to as if you were doing stock removal.

 

[Deweyknives]

Randy that would be awesome! You gonna make it to Ashokan? I am not having any problems doing the forging parts, fixing the twisties and stuff, I am having trouble figuring out how to layout the edge and spine thickness marks to grind down to as if you were doing stock removal.

I see what you're saying. I've tried a few different methods of establishing centerlines. I usually have a lot of taper so it's not easy. And with bevels started it's 10 times worse. Probably why I always go back to doing it by eye. Sometimes if one is giving me a problem, I'll clamp it at the ricasso to a strait piece of angle iron [any FLAT stock] and check the gap between the angle iron and the edge. It's amazing how precise the eye can see!!

I hope to make Ashokan!!:thumbup::thumbup: Planning for it but too early to be sure!

 

[Bruce Bump]

I make a sheet metal template of the finished profile and try my best to forge it to that shape including tapering the tang and distal blade taper. Its not always easy because there is usually either not enough steel or too much steel so I need to chop saw off the excess and keep forging. Most of the time I finish off with the bandsaw and grinders.