Failed Canister Welds

indian george

indian george

Joined
Feb 15, 1999
Messages
11,566
What am I doing wrong???

The outside canister is SS, the center canister is 1018, 1/16 wall X 1".
I cleaned the canisters well (bead blasted). The 1" can had 4600ec, meteorite and Helen's ashes and on the outside was pure nickel (not touching each other). The rest was fill up with 1095. I sprayed WD-40 in it a number of times.
I had my controller on the forge. I put the canister in when I first lite the forge. I brought it up slowly to 1500 deg. and held for 15 minutes, then 1800 deg. for 15 minutes, then I brought it up to 2300 deg. for 10 minutes. Then put it right into the squaring dies.
Checkout the pic's.
 
My guess is that the soak time wasn't long enough at 2300. Of the controller reading is off.
Stacy
 
I would question the 10 min also. What is the composition of meteorite ?
 
mete said:
I would question the 10 min also. What is the composition of meteorite ?
Click to expand...

I have no idea on the meteorite.:confused: I took some pieces and put it into a envelop of SS tool wrap and pulverized it. Then I put it into a paper bowl and used a magnet to take the metal out of it.:)
 
In my experience with "can" welding, it requires bringing the "can" up to welding temp....then leave it there for 45 mins- 1 hour. This is my rule of thumb for the standard 4"x4"x6" cans that I use.
About the end caps/lids: I have found that using a 3/8" thick end cap, and cutting it to fit INSIDE the can works best for me. I put the lid inside, weld it on, and almost never have a cap come loose.
Next, the amount of compression you use per heat. Until I can "feel" the weld get solid in the press, I won't compress more than about 1/4" per heat.

Although most recommend it, I never put anything like WD or paper, etc. in the can. Every time I do, I get failures. If I leave it as is, close up the can and weld it in the manner I described, it always seems to work out fine for me.
 
Ed Caffrey said:
In my experience with "can" welding, it requires bringing the "can" up to welding temp....then leave it there for 45 mins- 1 hour. This is my rule of thumb for the standard 4"x4"x6" cans that I use.
About the end caps/lids: I have found that using a 3/8" thick end cap, and cutting it to fit INSIDE the can works best for me. I put the lid inside, weld it on, and almost never have a cap come loose.
Next, the amount of compression you use per heat. Until I can "feel" the weld get solid in the press, I won't compress more than about 1/4" per heat.

Although most recommend it, I never put anything like WD or paper, etc. in the can. Every time I do, I get failures. If I leave it as is, close up the can and weld it in the manner I described, it always seems to work out fine for me.
Click to expand...

Thanks Bro:thumbup::D
 
I have made a couple billets of meteorite steel and you have to thin down the meteorite powder so the nickle is at or below 1.5%. Above that and it cracks real bad. But at 1.5% nickel you still get a nice sparkly etch.

The last one I did.

meteoritesteel3.jpg


Campos average 6.7% Ni
Gibeon average 7.9%
Sikote Alin average 5.9Ni
Nantan 6.9%
 
Last edited:
B Finnigan said:
I have made a couple billets of meteorite steel and you have to thin down the meteorite powder so the nickle is at or below 1.5%. Above that and it cracks real bad. But at 1.5% nickel you still get a nice sparkly etch.

Campos average 6.7% Ni
Gibeon average 7.9%
Sikote Alin average 5.9Ni
Nantan 6.9%
Click to expand...
Coool billet!!!! Thanks:thumbup:
 
Hey IG, Just a thought.....what about cleaning it up in vineger and then trying a re-weld. Maybe ya get something.
Mace
 
sorry to hear that ma, that sucks. ya i'm am with stacy, it allmost looks like you tryied to forge wrought iron to cold as it splits like that to. but maybe you can save it and it will come out even better.
 
I found that the soaktime needs to be much longer esp with meteorite. Like Ed pointed out, soak times in the 45 min -1hour times at temp (2300F). Powder is not the same as laminated billets. It takes much more heat and time at temp to keep the welds clean. I think you may be able to salvage the canister. Also, I have found there is normally enough oil left in a cleaned out can to leave the WD out. It seems to cause more problems for me. The remnants of any oil or other burnable material will eliminate the O2.

Good luck
 
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