Failed Grinding Video

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HallHandmade

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Jun 5, 2012
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So, I made you all a video about my grinding as requested, and got screwed by my POS phone. I did a start to finish video from HT'ed blank to finish ground, and the damn thing glitched and didn't record any audio. I just wanted to mention, I'm not wearing PPE in this video, but that I always do when working in the shop. I only did a few swipes on the cork and a few on another belt for the clip, but even then I should have been wearing safety glasses and respirator. I'm not wearing the respirator for obvious reasons, but I did have a crossflow set up. Normally I have a crossflow, dust collection, respirator, leather apron, and safety glasses. I recommend these are worn at all times.

I basically wasted my whole morning for nothing, so I tried to salvage it with this. Hopefully it's still of some value. If there's anything you'd like to see me cover in detail, please let me know so I can include it when I redo this one. The original video went into more detail about belt selection and showed step by step views of the grinding as it progressed. I still plan on including that on the next one.

[video=youtube;LhCmLDzC2ao]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LhCmLDzC2ao[/video]
 
Well, Ian, I found your video super !!
I do have a couple of related questions. As to the cork belts what brand are you using and is there a grit size you usually go to first and do you follow that up with other grit sizes? My thanks . Frank
 
Thanks for posting the video. The belt explanation and details on techniques are much appreciated. Bummer the other video shot caps on you I would have loved to seen it.

Justin
 
Great vid Ian.

Love those cork belts!
 
I watched it and realized I didn't mention the grit of the cork belt a single time.

The one I use for my standard finishes is a 400 grit Hermes brand, which as far as I know is as coarse as it goes. They are considered a polishing/surface conditioning belt. I also have 800 and 1200 grits.

The 400 is a really unique belt, as it still gives a soft uniform finish, but is low enough grit to still leave a distinct brushed look. If you go higher grit cork it starts to look more polished than brushed.

On my standard finish, I go 120+ 3m Cubitron II (947a) > 220 3M Regalite Ceramic > 320 j-flex > 400 cork

On my satin polish finish, I go 120+ 3m Cubitron II (947a) > 220 3M Regalite Ceramic > 320 j-flex > 400 j-flex > 600 j-flex > 800 cork > 1200 cork
 
The video helped but I would like to know more about cork belts. Do they come with a grit already on them or is there a special way to load them up with grit. Thanks.

Tim

edit - sorry, I missed the post above mine.
 
They come pre-loaded with grit, but you have to "break" the surface of the cork first to make it flat. It takes about ten minutes and is very easy.

Just to give an idea of what "lasts forever" means, this is the only the second one I've ever owned, and the only reason I had to replace the first was because I accidentally damaged it. I would say you can get hundreds of blades from one belt.

I don't use the higher grit ones as often, and they're basically like new after a year. I could see them going 5yrs+, and eventually being replaced because of the joint wearing out instead of the abrasive itself.

I don't always use the cork, but I usually do. Sometimes I will stop as low as the 220 ceramic, if I'm going for a "ground" look.
 
Ian thanks for posting the belts. I will be buying a cork belt with my next order.
You have to break them in to get them flat for 10 minutes what does that consist of?

Justin
 
Excellent video. I had totally forgotten about cork belts. Look like you've started a mad rush for them!!!

Totally awesome how you keep mentioning how clutch the first video was throughout this one, too. I'm not kidding - makes the whole thing a bit more 'human' because it's so obviously pissing you off. I would have been swearing through this one, had I been in your place. 😜

Nice work!!!
 
Here is how Steve Johnson describes breaking in a cork belt

http://www.trugrit.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=8

To break in the cork belts, put them on the grinder with a tool rest in place. Using a scrap piece of blade steel, or whatever, wear on that belt for a good 10 minutes. Be careful not to "break" the corners, or edges, of the belt too aggressively, or all the cork and polishing media will peel off. Buffing compound helps here, I think, in making it easier to "fold" around the edge of the wheel a little. You do need to slightly break or round the corners of the belt around the edge of the wheel, however, but be careful not to overdo it. It is smelly and dirty for that 10 min, but it takes that long (10 min. by the clock) to break the belt in.

A new cork belt looks like a 36 grit belt, it's so rough. When it's broken in, it has some smooth spots, some valleys and starts taking on a smoother, slightly shiny appearance. Use the buffing compound during the "break-in." Be advised tht it takes some pressure, and time to do the job. You don't want to peel off cork, you are trying to just smooth out the surface of the belt somewhat.

These belts will then last you 2-3 years, assuming that you do 50-100 knives per year. Take a little care with the edges, as I've noted above. Use ample compound. Hopefully, you might be as happy with this process as I am. The cork belt is the best thing to come along in many a year, as far as I'm concerned.
-Written by S.R. Johnson-Knifemaker


Just a note. I have used cork belts for a couple years now and have broken in several. I suggest getting a peice of round stock or a 1.25" pipe and use that to break in the belt.

It will smooth the belts rugged jagged high spots without a ton of crap flying in the air. And set your clock for 10 mins and lean into it go until the timer stops.
 
Ian, excellent vid. I love your explanations on pressure. I would love to watch another vid when you get a chance. Your knives are what I consider to be finished in a way that is very appealing. Obviously you blade shapes must add to that but the overall finish is simply awesome. It is refreshing to see that with attention to detail and a good machine, a beautiful finish is attainable without hours of hand sanding. I look forward to seeing other vids. Thanks.
 
Matthew Gregory said:
Excellent video. I had totally forgotten about cork belts. Look like you've started a mad rush for them!!!

Totally awesome how you keep mentioning how clutch the first video was throughout this one, too. I'm not kidding - makes the whole thing a bit more 'human' because it's so obviously pissing you off. I would have been swearing through this one, had I been in your place. ��

Nice work!!!
Click to expand...

The cork belts are my "secret" weapon. My fiancé asked "do you really want to share your secrets" when I told her I was making a video, I said that I don't really have any, just a bit of patience and attention to detail.

I briefly considered "accidentally" breaking my phone after I discovered the audio issue. I was not a happy camper.


AVigil said:
Here is how Steve Johnson describes breaking in a cork belt

http://www.trugrit.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=8

To break in the cork belts, put them on the grinder with a tool rest in place. Using a scrap piece of blade steel, or whatever, wear on that belt for a good 10 minutes. Be careful not to "break" the corners, or edges, of the belt too aggressively, or all the cork and polishing media will peel off. Buffing compound helps here, I think, in making it easier to "fold" around the edge of the wheel a little. You do need to slightly break or round the corners of the belt around the edge of the wheel, however, but be careful not to overdo it. It is smelly and dirty for that 10 min, but it takes that long (10 min. by the clock) to break the belt in.

A new cork belt looks like a 36 grit belt, it's so rough. When it's broken in, it has some smooth spots, some valleys and starts taking on a smoother, slightly shiny appearance. Use the buffing compound during the "break-in." Be advised tht it takes some pressure, and time to do the job. You don't want to peel off cork, you are trying to just smooth out the surface of the belt somewhat.

These belts will then last you 2-3 years, assuming that you do 50-100 knives per year. Take a little care with the edges, as I've noted above. Use ample compound. Hopefully, you might be as happy with this process as I am. The cork belt is the best thing to come along in many a year, as far as I'm concerned.
-Written by S.R. Johnson-Knifemaker


Just a note. I have used cork belts for a couple years now and have broken in several. I suggest getting a peice of round stock or a 1.25" pipe and use that to break in the belt.

It will smooth the belts rugged jagged high spots without a ton of crap flying in the air. And set your clock for 10 mins and lean into it go until the timer stops.
Click to expand...

I just wanted to mention for clarity, and add a few things.

There are unloaded cork belts which need to be used with buffing compound, and then pre-loaded belts that have a grit rating and do not need added compound.

I use the ones that do not require compound for break in. If I'm breaking in a new belt, I'll usually dig up a square of scrap steel and grind straight sharp edges on all the sides. They don't need to be square to each other even, just straight and sharp. They'll wear down but can be flipped/tilted/etc.

The unloaded belts are a good option if you need to go higher or lower than what's available.

PT Doc said:
Ian, excellent vid. I love your explanations on pressure. I would love to watch another vid when you get a chance. Your knives are what I consider to be finished in a way that is very appealing. Obviously you blade shapes must add to that but the overall finish is simply awesome. It is refreshing to see that with attention to detail and a good machine, a beautiful finish is attainable without hours of hand sanding. I look forward to seeing other vids. Thanks.
Click to expand...

Thanks.

One of the reasons I did the original vid in a single take, was so I could show just how quickly and easily things can happen if it is all set up right. I was hoping nobody thought I was bragging about how fast I ground the clip... I was just saying that with a nice fresh belt and the right technique, you can get superb results in very little time. Additionally, that clip was not rough ground, so I took it from full thickness on both sides in less than a minute total. That was using a fresh Cubitron II 120g. The blade is at 61.5RC and I took quite a good chunk of material off, and only had to dip the blade twice, once after each clip. It barely even got warm anyways. Those Cubitron II 947a are NO joke, for sure. What I did could be done about as fast with any decent quality belt though, but maybe not as cool and not quite as fast and clean.

I think 20 minutes from start to finish including me talking was pretty impressive in the original video, especially on a blade with a ground clip. I don't mean impressive as far as my skill, just what anyone can do if everything is playing nice together.

If it's a blade that I've done a lot of and is a pretty easy grind, I can literally go from HT rough ground to ready for handles in less than 10 minutes, sometimes less than 5 minutes depending on whether it warped in HT and how close I got it on the rough grind.
 
Ian,

You are using the Hermes Silicon Carbide belts from TruGrit...is that right?

Those are the same belts S.R. Johnson is using in his description and he loads them with green compound. You certainly can use them without compound as well.

I do both way depending on the finish I want.
 
Ian - you are GOOD!!! I surely admire your work, and I've learned a few things from the video. Thanks.

Ken H>
 
Thanks for the tips Ian! (if that's what a failed grinding video is for you I can't wait to see what a successful one's like:-)
 
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