I know this is resurrecting an old thread, but just found by googling fake Okapis. I’ve owned a few genuine Okapis over the years and although I prefer the Douk Douk as the overall best inexpensive beater, Okapi are still good cheap knives for hard utility use. I recently went to buy a couple new ones and used eBay, apparently foolishly assuming nobody would counterfeit knives this cheap... I didn’t look too closely at the description pics, but when they arrived they just felt and looked “off” from what I was used to, came with mediocre edges and had awful impossible-to-sharpen edge profiles.
In reference to KuduCuckoo’s post right above, the top image is identical to the ones I just bought and most definitely fake. Upon inspection these aren’t difficult to spot:
- Odd Blade logo, smaller and very lightly stamped without darker infill
- Blade has very obvious, conventional ”sabre” grind bevel, whereas genuine are almost a chisel type with fully flat ground front (ie; logo side) and slight bevel on the opposite side. This is the easiest difference to spot at a glance.
- All the steel including blade, lock-bar and the moon/stars decoration has a dull, almost matte finish, whereas genuine have bright, highly polished blades.
- Often some type of soft stainless, whereas genuine use 1055 carbon steel
- Handles have defined edges, flatter on the sides whereas genuine are fully rounded.
- Handles apparently made from a single solid piece of wood, whereas genuine use two halves bonded together with an obvious seam along the entire length.
- Handles also have a very thin slit just wide enough for a tight blade fit down the entire length when closed, whereas genuine have a wide ~5mm slot to accommodate the blade that’s usually a few degrees off-centre when closed
Flaws and rough workmanship are present in both genuine and fake, so unlike many knives you can’t go by the relatively bad fit & finish to spot a fake. The fake ones, at least the ones I ordered, also came with standard Okapi cardboard boxes. These were spot on for the printing, but used a lighter, thinner cardboard.
As above, look for the blade bevel on the facing side to quickly spot a fake; handle ridges and dull, matte steel being the next most obvious tells.
The fakes aren’t even worth $5 IMO, the steel and wood are both crap. Buy original and save the genuine brand!! They are in significant danger of going under due to high volume of dirt-cheap fakes flooding the market. Buy from reputable dealers and be very careful on eBay — particularly any Chinese seller (so far on a quick look I only found a handful of African or North American sellers with fakes, the vast majority are Chinese).
I hope that helps, and if anyone is interested I’ll be happy to add a few side by side comparison pics of my own.