Mine is a ZT 0562cf. The bearings don't touch the CF or in my case now the micarta. There is a stainless liner on that side and the titanium on the other. No washers at all.
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Fake ZT?
- Thread starter garciao
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Locutus D'Borg
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Sell it on eBay as a very rare example of rusted 20CV. Should attract some buyers.
The knives in the pics below are fakes, taken from a well-known site that sells fakes.
Two things of interest that stand out to me are- the model numbers clearly say 0562CF (CF for carbon fiber), but there are no carbon fiber handles.
Second, they actually bothered to give each knife a different serial number. With some fakes, the fact that every knife has the same serial number is a dead giveaway, but some counterfeiters are making the effort to switch them up.
On the bright side, you didn't pay for what a real pre-owned ZT 0562CF would likely go for, but on the down side, you paid almost twice what the fakes sell for new, and you got a fake.
EDIT: I was wrong about the pivot screws. ZT does make a 0562 model with black pivot screws (0562TI). But the thumbstud/blade stop not contacting the handle is another dead giveaway of a fake. That's part of the function of the knife that's simply missing.
Two things of interest that stand out to me are- the model numbers clearly say 0562CF (CF for carbon fiber), but there are no carbon fiber handles.
Second, they actually bothered to give each knife a different serial number. With some fakes, the fact that every knife has the same serial number is a dead giveaway, but some counterfeiters are making the effort to switch them up.
On the bright side, you didn't pay for what a real pre-owned ZT 0562CF would likely go for, but on the down side, you paid almost twice what the fakes sell for new, and you got a fake.
EDIT: I was wrong about the pivot screws. ZT does make a 0562 model with black pivot screws (0562TI). But the thumbstud/blade stop not contacting the handle is another dead giveaway of a fake. That's part of the function of the knife that's simply missing.
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Here's what I think happened.
I think this model has new scales. Where there's a new titanium one
Thanks everyone.
First time encountering a fake knife. It's been a learning experience. Thanks for all the input.
Here's the key points I'm making in case anyone else needs as a reference:
1. CPM 20CV is highly rust proof. Yeah it can rust, but it's not that easy. I know because I have a Kershaw Link with 20CV and it's absolutely spotless even after spending months inside a drawer.
2. The thub studs should be a stopping for the blade. They're not placed at the right spot.
3. This is the most important and obvious one, but it requires dissasenbly to see it: ZT has it's blade carrying the bearings on one side. The blade itself holds the bearings, not the scales.
First time encountering a fake knife. It's been a learning experience. Thanks for all the input.
Here's the key points I'm making in case anyone else needs as a reference:
1. CPM 20CV is highly rust proof. Yeah it can rust, but it's not that easy. I know because I have a Kershaw Link with 20CV and it's absolutely spotless even after spending months inside a drawer.
2. The thub studs should be a stopping for the blade. They're not placed at the right spot.
3. This is the most important and obvious one, but it requires dissasenbly to see it: ZT has it's blade carrying the bearings on one side. The blade itself holds the bearings, not the scales.
toker
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0562CF = Carbon Fiber
0562TI = Titanium
I wouldn't expect counterfeiters to use the same steel as the real thing. Especially if they're selling them for a fraction of the cost. I also wouldn't want to trust my fingers to a counterfeit. Nor would I want to give counterfeiters money and reward them for their crime.
The fact that the OP bought a fake, and still thinks that it's real despite clear evidence to the contrary is glaring proof of just how damaging counterfeits are to the knife community and to those who like knives.
No offense, but I think you're grasping at straws. The fact that the thumbstud isn't acting as a stop pin is pretty glaring proof that it's a fake.
I also noticed that on the real ZT 0562 knives, that the last/bottom handle screw is noticeably larger than the other three handle screws. On the fakes in the pictures I posted all four screws are the same size.
The last screw is in fact larger as it also holds the clip in place. It's actually a T10 while all other screws ate T8. If you look closer the clip doesn't screw onto the outside of the scale but the inside of the liner(s) and helps prevent damaging the scales on the outside. It also provides for a very deep carry clip.
I have no intention of using this knife at all. Plus as I wrote right here https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/fake-zt.1890489/page-2#post-21456435 I'm positive it's not a real model.
I also do not believe in having different categories of knives. I don't have "nice to look at knives" which are separate from beater knives. I only have knives I use, and if I need to beat the shit of any knife, I do it.
I would not trust a fake knife.
The few knives I have are good and I use them. I'm not a collector, I have no more than 10 knives in total, including my full-tang knives.
So don't get me wrong. I'm not saying this is a real ZT. I'm saying the only thing possible was that it was a CF with exchanged scales.
Perhaps I misinterpreted what you were saying in post #28. I got the impression you were still thinking it might be real. My apologies if I was wrong.
My guess is that the counterfeiters either didn't know what the "CF" stood for, or they simply didn't care, and when they decided to create fake 0562TI's that they just used the same blades that they were using for the 052CF's with the "CF" already printed on them. Or they just didn't bother to change the printing for the 0652TI's.
Who knows.
All of the knives I posted above have the 0652CF marking.
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sgt1372
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It's already been determined to be a fake but what makes you think (other than the magnet "test") that the scales are titanium?
The scales could easily past the magnet test if they were made of aluminum or some other non-magnetic material.
If I were making a fake, I certainly wouldn't spend the $ to include titanium scales, especially when I didn't want to spend the money for a reasonably rust resistant form of stainless steel for the blade.
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Basically, you got what you paid for -- a $30 fake, which BTW only costs $25 on dhgate.
So, you weren't exactly "ripped" off but, if I were you, I'd have a "word" w/my "friend," refer him to this thread and ask for my $ back,
If he is REALLY your "friend," I don't think he should have any objection to doing that and, if not, he would be my "friend" no longer.
But that's just me . . .
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It's not impossible that the carbon scale was changed. Since the scales are non mag then they are likely titanium which means they are very likely not fake as the fakers are not using titanium due to cost in materials and machining, they typically use magnetic stainless which is pretty heavy. If the scales were aluminum the knife would be quite light 3oz or less so weight it and see where it is. I would just keep it and use it, you will know quickly if the steel is good as it will hold an edge for a long time depending on how you use it. Since you already own it just do some testing on paper, cardboard and wood to see how it holds up. Certainly worth trying, wouldnt just throw it away. Let us know.
sgt1372
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It's really moot because the knife is clearly a fake BUT it is by no means "proven" that the scales are titanium just because they are non-magnetic.
Based on what little research I just did, there are positive ways to test between Ti and Al.
On test is easy but a bit destructive: grind it -- no sparks and it's Al -- white/blue sparks and it's Ti. A couple of other tests involve the use of acids which should only be done in a lab with proper safety equipment. And, another test would involve the measurement of the specific gravity of the material -- 4.5 for Ti and 2.7 for Al, which could be done at home if you have the necessary measuring equipment, which for most people is highly unlikely.
Of the 3, if I were really curious, I'd take a Dremel w/a grinding head and hit the inside of one of the scales to see if it sparks or not.
That should answer the question.
toker
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There's a 0% chance that the steel is 20CV. Crucible Steel is a US company. The counterfeiters are not going to import that steel to their countries. It's probably just a run of the mill steel with poor corrosion resistance.
An even easier test is to hit the steel with a butane torch. It will change colors fairly quickly if it's titanium.
A difference I just noticed between the OP's knife and the real thing is that on the real 0562TI the inside of the front handle scale is milled out.
The first pic is the OP's knife, with the solid front "titanium" handle scale . The second pic is the real thing with the milled out handle.
The first pic is the OP's knife, with the solid front "titanium" handle scale . The second pic is the real thing with the milled out handle.
No reason to go through all that. Aluminum is much lighter than Ti so just weigh it and see, if it's heavier then it's either Ti or non magnetic stainless. No reason to damage the knife.