Fallkniven DC4 sharpening stones?

Does anyone know the difference between the DC3 and the DC4? The DC3 weighs a little more but costs less :confused:



edit* oh well, when in doubt, order one of each lol
 
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Well, I just picked up a DC4 today. I need a good portable stone for the summer so I decided to give this baby a go. When I got home from work I decided to try it out. Only problem was I couldn't find a dull knife to try it on, since I never put any of my blades away without proper care first. I ended up with an old folder, Aus 8 steel, which I figured would do for a quick test. I did some carving/cutting with it to wear down the edge a bit first.

The stone is indeed, as many here have stated, very impressive for a portable. I had zero problems rising a very fine burr on the diamond stone and then finishing it with the ceramic. I did it free hand, since that's the way I'll be doing it outdoors, but I'm sure it could do well in some homemade sharpening box too.

The diamond hone was perhaps a little too coarse OOtB but it says so on the back of the box too so that was to be expected. Like most stones it will probably age well I guess.

Anyway, it didn't take me long to get the knife back to shaving sharpness with the DC4 so that's one up for the stone. Overall I like the smoothness of the ceramic side and how well it turns out that finishing hone in very little time. Word of caution though, the stone is a bit slippery on a flat surface due to the whole double sided thingy so use something to keep it in place if you're gonna work a heavier blade. I took a hint from that Bushcraft duder and used a couple small nails on a board to keep it from skidding when stroking.

For such a cheap stone I'm very pleased and I'm sure it'll come to good use.
 
Yeah, as previously noted, the difference between DC3 and DC4 is simply the respective lengths.

I'll give these a "thumbs-up" also. I am a little weary of the ridges in the ceramic, but so far I've gotten good useable edges on three knives. For freehand, i.e. the sharpener in the hand, the DC4 is easier to hold (nice thumb cut with the DC3 - careless abandon of youth, I guess).
 
You can cut a piece of inner tube or that rubber like shelf paper (grocery stores) to the size of the stone to use as a no slip sharpening surface if using nails everywhere you go is too cumbersome ... it will also fit in the stone sheath also.

NJ
 
Will this work on carbon steel blades too?

Also, I heard the coating holding the ceramic and diamond stones together has come apart for some owners. can anyone attest to this?
 
Yes, you can use the DC4 with carbon steels.

If the adhesive failes, just glue it back together with some epoxy.
 
d2eux said:
Will this work on carbon steel blades too?

Also, I heard the coating holding the ceramic and diamond stones together has come apart for some owners. can anyone attest to this?
Click to expand...

Yes it can. It is a water-soluble glue. ( probably PVA- Poly-vinyl acetate or polyester glue)

Here's what I did. Run it under hot water for 5 mins. Or put it in a cup of hot water. Separate the ceramic from the diamond plate using a thin knife. Clean the old glue off . Apply super-glue ( Gorilla Brand super glue gel is good ,not the polyurethane) or use 2 part epoxy. Re-assemble the halves squarely and clamp. No worries with getting it wet from now on. I did this with all 4 of my DC's.:thumbup:
 
cool, good to hear. How does this compare to other sharpeners though like DMT? Ive heard a lot of positives in favor of DMT because its bigger and therefore, can sharpen faster. But DMT is just diamond and doesnt come with the ceramic component. But could a "fine" or "extra fine" diamond grit DMT sharpener take the place of ceramic?

A few people also commented its difficult to repair chips with the DC4, can anyone attest to this?
 
d2eux said:
cool, good to hear. How does this compare to other sharpeners though like DMT? Ive heard a lot of positives in favor of DMT because its bigger and therefore, can sharpen faster. But DMT is just diamond and doesnt come with the ceramic component. But could a "fine" or "extra fine" diamond grit DMT sharpener take the place of ceramic?

A few people also commented its difficult to repair chips with the DC4, can anyone attest to this?
Click to expand...

I can't attest to its alleged difficulty repairing chips as I've not yet tried to fix a chip with my DC4, and probably never will unless I'm forced to try. I believe the diamond side is 25 microns, which theoretically could remove a chip, but it would take too long to do. The bottom of a ceramic coffee mug could also theoretically remove a chip, but I wouldn't want to waste my time with that, either. Since the ceramic on the DC4 is much finer than the diamond side, I won't even bother addressing its potential for major edge restoration tasks such as chip removal.

Some perspective: Shapmaker brown medium ceramic rods are ~20 microns. Would you even think of attempting to grind out a chip with SM browns?:eek:
 
Usually guys here go with DMT XXC for fixing chips and other edge deformations, just b/c it is fastest at 120 grit. But I've read plenty of posts from those who do fine with XC (220 grit) for such tasks. Coarse (325 grit) will also work but it will take a loooong time. And you'd need more than the 2 inches of space that Lansky stick thing provides. Also, I'd bet dollars to donuts that the diamond pad on that stick is composed of low quality diamond dust sprinkled onto adhesive -- not good, especially for anything other than the lightest of touch-ups... certainly not for serious stock removal. It's not as inexpensive as that Lansky, but you can get a DMT XC/C Diafold for under $30... two sides, each more than four inches long... qaulity diamonds... good deal... no more chips.
 
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