Fallkniven F1 alternatives

The Rant feels a bit 'clubby' to my small hands and the laminated blade of the F1 gives it a good mix of toughness and edge retention.
 
^ good idea! I'll bet those were pretty good bits you needed :D

did you chamfer the the holes by chance- I've seen that done on other knives- purportedly makes it a little stronger????

you didn't happen to weigh the blank w/ your finished drilled blank?
 
Yes mtwarden, they were good bits. 1/4" Carbide bits. Carbide bits are the only kind of drill bits that will drill through metal that has already been tempered and hardened like knives are. They are very brittle and will snap if not used correctly (as I found out). Low rpm, light pressure, cutting oil, and with a drill press only. The bits were $15 a piece and I ended having to get a second one because I got too ambitious with the first one. Ended up with 7 additional 1/4" holes besides the holes that were already there for the pins and lanyard tube. Sorry to report that I did not weigh the blank before or after. I do not own scales to measure something like that. I also did not chamfer the holes. Didn't feel a need to. The balance when completed is nearly perfect. Right on the first finger where it should be.
 
Not sure about the others, but from all my research, I bought and love the F1.
 
Arakiel said:
I don't understand the philosophy of convex blade on a small fixed blade knife. Now, a convexed edge, absolutely. Is it all about batoning? If so, then I guess I don't understand the philosophy behind batoning. I know it is a survival technique but I personally have never needed to waste the energy that batoning requires in my backcountry outings. I guess I wish they made an F1 with a full flat grind. I'll never need one even if they did make one because I'm very happy with my Linder SuperEdge I which is FFG.
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I totally agree about the obsurdity of batoning. It makes no sense when you can find smaller sticks. Plus I've never heard how you're supposed to break the logs into manageable (16") pieces before batoning. If you have an axe/hatchet, that would be a much better tool to split with. Most of the pics of people batoning include chain saw cut logs...

On the other point you made: If you are concerned about the very small differences between full convex and full flat ground, then you are being way to picky on how your knives perform. We're talking about very minute differences in where the steel is located and seconds of angle of bevel change... If you haven't handled a Fallkniven, then that would make sense, if you have then I don't really understand what the problem with either full convex or FFG would be...

To the OP: I own the BM Rant and the Fallkniven F1. I choose the F1 over the Rant everytime I go out for two reasons: The F1 is the perfect size blade, I like them a bit smaller. The F1 comes with the PERFECT Zytel sheath. Like a Mora sheath done right. It's compact, super protective, and positively holds the blade.
 
michaelmcgo said:
I totally agree about the obsurdity of batoning. It makes no sense when you can find smaller sticks. Plus I've never heard how you're supposed to break the logs into manageable (16") pieces before batoning. If you have an axe/hatchet, that would be a much better tool to split with. Most of the pics of people batoning include chain saw cut logs...

On the other point you made: If you are concerned about the very small differences between full convex and full flat ground, then you are being way to picky on how your knives perform. We're talking about very minute differences in where the steel is located and seconds of angle of bevel change... If you haven't handled a Fallkniven, then that would make sense, if you have then I don't really understand what the problem with either full convex or FFG would be...

To the OP: I own the BM Rant and the Fallkniven F1. I choose the F1 over the Rant everytime I go out for two reasons: The F1 is the perfect size blade, I like them a bit smaller. The F1 comes with the PERFECT Zytel sheath. Like a Mora sheath done right. It's compact, super protective, and positively holds the blade.
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There's a common misconception that battoning is suitable only for some edge types. In fact it doesn't matter which geometry the blade has because the wood doesn't actually come in contact with the edge once driven into the wood. All the contact and pressure is on the sides of the blade, not the edge.

The F1 is convex because it's easy to maintain and is a great edge for biting into wood. It would be pretty pointless battoning with the F1 though, it's just too short.
 
this is off the main topic, but nothing absurd w/ batoning- it's a proven survival technique that allows you to get to dry wood that is otherwise unavailable

is there a over emphasis on batoning and proving a knife's work on this and other forums- most definitely imo

in regards to sectioning of the wood, I don't typically carry an axe (winter being the exception), but I do carry a small folding saw- nothing handier for helping to put up a debris shelter or lean-to and sections wood much easier/faster than an axe and I often baton sectioned dry wood for fire prep
 
PropThePolecat said:
Another recommendation for the Fallkniven F1. Thats only because i have no experience with the Rant and Master Hunter.

Just some bonus info...The founder of Fallkniven used to be a Cold Steel distributor for Europe. He then parts ways with Cold Steel, and the rest is history. No wonder the 2 knives look so alike.

By the way, i think the new Rants are made with 440C steel. BM has also launched a few extra blade shapes and replaced the old sheath with a nylon one.

BM_517SBK.jpg


Heres a comparison of the Rant with the F1. As you cans ee its much bigger than the F1. ts closer in size to the Master Hunter. The pic i borrowed from: http://www.knives.lt/sites/default/files/images/F1-vs-BM%20Rant.jpg

F1-vs-BM%20Rant.jpg
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The Rant was discontinued in 440C (at least it was) They are still available though. The price is about $50. I have it in 440C and for the dough, good deal. (JMHO)
 
Here's a couple alternatives. (I don't own any of them so I can't recommend or critique)

Some are a little off the beaten path but:


Lion Steel M2 Hunter (440C )

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Chris Revees Nyala (about $220)

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Boker Hunter (440C about $90)

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Buck Hunter (154 cm about $90

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There's a gazzilion knives in this style. These were just a couple. Even an ESEE 4 could even be considered.

Go over to the "custom and handmade" forum here on Blade Forums ... some REAL nice stuff over there.
 
AttilaTheHun said:
It seems most everyone is putting out their copy of the Fallkniven F1 knife pattern intended for survival/hunting/camping:
- fixed blade
- black textured composite handle with finger guard an lanyard hole
- 4-5mm hollow-ground stainless blade, about 4 inch long.
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The F1 is not hollow ground. It is convex ground.

If a knife isn't convex ground....I don't see how it's a F1 copy.

That's like a copy of a peanut butter and jelly sandwich with no peanut butter on it.
 
michaelmcgo said:
...On the other point you made: If you are concerned about the very small differences between full convex and full flat ground, then you are being way to picky on how your knives perform. We're talking about very minute differences in where the steel is located and seconds of angle of bevel change... If you haven't handled a Fallkniven, then that would make sense, if you have then I don't really understand what the problem with either full convex or FFG would be...
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Sir,

Here is my reasoning.
I have not handled an F1, and my issue with small blade convex grinds is not so much a use issue, but a maintaining issue. I simply find flat grinds take less time to sharpen in the field because there is less material at the edge, and I can guage the sharpening angle better by eye. One more minor point for use in a survival situation, a polished flat grind can be used as a signal mirror.
 
I have the F-1 and one of the older Rant bowies with metal guard.
no comparison between the two knives.
size feel blade shape ... everything is different aside of the rubber type grips.
I would TREAT the F-1 alot harsher than the RANT bowie ... just by the FEEL of the knives.
*F-1 is now a proven design and as far as I am concerned it is a BENCH STONE OF A KNIFE ... others should be judged by.
Price is right on them and 1000's of owners cannot be wrong.
 
set
mtwarden said:
^ your correct- the tang is larger (wider) on the diy version, so in addition to whatever scales you choose- you're adding even more weight

you do however get the exact scale material and size/shape of your choice :)
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If you're an infantry grunt and every gram matters, then the lighter, standard, thermorun handles are fine; however, if you like micarta handles, have large hands, and some tools (Dremel tool, files, small drill press), you can get the DIY version and make it to your own specs. A little bit heavier but full tang. (If the image appears), mine has green micarta scales held on with epoxy and brass corby bolts, so they aren't coming off or wearing out
 
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clearly a good option- especially if you have larger hands :)

are you using a hosting site like photobucket? you can simply choose/copy the
selection and paste it into your post
 
Love my F-1.

Splitting wood using a saw

If you have a good length of wood - 24" or so and longer - about baseball bat size, you can split usinf a saw. Sawing half way through it's thickness at about it's mid point. Strike it above the cut against a hard object (tree/rock/hard ground) with the lateral cut pointing in the direction of your swing ("down" if you're hitting the ground). The cut acts as a stress-riser and the wood tends to split along its length.
 
Woods Creeper said:
I have the F-1 and one of the older Rant bowies with metal guard.
no comparison between the two knives.
size feel blade shape ... everything is different aside of the rubber type grips.
I would TREAT the F-1 alot harsher than the RANT bowie ... just by the FEEL of the knives.
*F-1 is now a proven design and as far as I am concerned it is a BENCH STONE OF A KNIFE ... others should be judged by.
Price is right on them and 1000's of owners cannot be wrong.
Click to expand...
Well that's kind of why I started this thread. The F1 has achieved cult status since its introduction in '95 and has been copied by some reputable manufacturers, some of which are listed up top. Said manufacturers have had time to come up with something good (it's been 16 years after all). So does any of the competing product give the F1 a run for its money (or half of it)?
Here's another contender:
Cold Steel Pendleton Hunter
Blade Thick: 3/16 in.
Blade Length: 3 1/2 in.
Handle: 4 3/4 in.long. Kraton
Steel: VG-1 Stainless Steel
Overall Length: 8 1/4 in.
Sheath: Secure-Ex Sheath
Weight: 5.8 oz.
$50
ColdSteelPendletonHunterKnife.jpg


BTW I wouldn't compare the F1 to the Rant Bowie but to the Rant Drop Point rather. See review here: http://www.gunblast.com/Greg_Benchmade-PardueMDP.htm
 
I am not aware of a manufacturer copying the F-1. None of the knives listed in the OP is such a knife. They are saber ground. One looks saber/concave.

Perhaps someone can correct me.

Bark River and Busse make convex models, but they don't seem like copies of the F-1 to me.
 
I have owned and sold some knives and fallkniven knives are fantastic.

I have the a1 now and seem to reach for that one most often.

Fallkniven gets my vote. Tough to beat.
 
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