Fallkniven F1

Sulaco

Sulaco

Gold Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2003
Messages
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I just traded for a used (but practically new) Fallkniven F1 from a forum member. I think it is an older model because the laser engraved name on the blade is different than the one on the website. That one specifies that it is laminated VG-10, but mine only says VG-10. What is the difference?

Also, I have never had a blade with this type of contour. I don't even know what it is called. Is there a proper name for it? And how would I go about sharpening it? I tried using my Sharpmaker with the ceramic stones set at 40 degrees but it didn't get very sharp. Should I try the harder stones or switch the ceramics to 30 degrees?

I also have course and fine DMT benchstones but I am not real good with them yet and am afraid I might mess up such a fine knife.

I am very impressed with the knife though. It is obviously well built and very well designed. I am sure once I learn to put and keep an edge on it, I will hardly leave the house without it!
 
Fallkniven are convex ground. Great grind for all around use IMO. I have several BRKT convex ground knives. I sharpen them on a mouse pad block. Basically I glued a mouse pad to a block of wood. I then strap sandpaper (whatever course you need) accost the top. When you sharpen the blade, put almost the full width of the blade down and press gently to form the conture of the grind. This method works very very well. Hope this help, If I'm unclear, PM me and I will email a tutorial I have on how to make it.
 
you should be able to see the lamination line between the center part of the blade vg-10 and the sides 420j2 it makes for an extremely tough blade. Sharpening as detailed by tarmix101 is the way to go with this knife. or you can put a flat bevel on it if you wish but a shame to do with a convex ground knife.
 
bigbcustom said:
you should be able to see the lamination line between the center part of the blade vg-10 and the sides 420j2 it makes for an extremely tough blade. Sharpening as detailed by tarmix101 is the way to go with this knife. or you can put a flat bevel on it if you wish but a shame to do with a convex ground knife.
Click to expand...

I am pretty sure this isn't a laminated blade. I guess it's an early one?
 
The F1 is a modern classic IMHO. I have one of the 'early' ones in VG-10. It responds well to DMT diamond hones; I sharpen convex blades by drawing them 'backwards' across the hone (rather than edge forward). This seems to work for me. VG10 takes a while to get the burr off though. This steel compares favorably to Carbon V and other high carbon steels in edge-holding properties, although it takes longer to sharpen. But it is more corrosion resistant. I had Normark make me a Concealex sheath which is a perfect companion to the blade.
 
Hey Tarmix

Can you attach a photo of your setup? I too am thinking of getting of getting a convex blade but scared about resharpening it.
 
I touch up my F1 on a Sharpmaker all the time on the white flats then when I eventually start to notice the tiniest little secondary bevel I will break out the mouse pad and sandpaper.

I do "roll" it slightly on the white flats too which makes it take that much longer I think before I need the mouse pad.
 
Well, I tried the mousepad and sandpaper thing and it doesn't seem to be working too well. I used 220 grit to remove the slight bevel I put on it when I used the Sharpmaker earlier, but even using 220 and then 400 grit, I am not getting it anywhere near sharp. It's like butterknife dull right now. I think all I have managed to do is remove some metal, scuff up the sides and get my hands dirty. What am I doing wrong?
 
wildstar said:
Hey Tarmix

Can you attach a photo of your setup? I too am thinking of getting of getting a convex blade but scared about resharpening it.
Click to expand...


I cut the blocks 9 3/4". That leaves just enough left over to stuff the excess into the slits you see on both ends. I glued the mouse pad down rubber side up, but I'm not sure it matters.

It is a little tricky at first, but once I got used to it, I now sharpen all my Moras this way. BTW... you MUST strop after you sharpen a blade this way. I found without stropping, it left a huge burl no matter what, there by affecting the lasting edge.

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d78/tmrandall/PICT0001.jpg
 
When you sharpen, do you drag it in a straight line straight back and then stop and do another section? How do you work the tip and curve into this movement?

Also, how much pressure do you apply and if you start on the flat of the blade, how much of an angle do you stop with?

Thanks!
 
Sulaco said:
When you sharpen, do you drag it in a straight line straight back and then stop and do another section? How do you work the tip and curve into this movement?

Also, how much pressure do you apply and if you start on the flat of the blade, how much of an angle do you stop with?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I use the basic motion that you would use on a oil stone. However, the angle should be fairly flat. I press down just hard enough to sink the blade to "edge level" You don't want the sandpaper to overlap the edge by pressing to hard. You will be doing more harm than good. Rest the knife on the sharpening surface. Bring the edge to the sandpaper and press until the mouse pad fits the contour or the convex blade. Stroke like you would a normal stone with the same pressure all the way down. I know it sound a little tricky, but with practice you will master it. Convex edges are fantastic in all around use, and the skill to bring them back to shaving sharp is worth it IMO.
 
Thanks, I will give it a shot. I was under the impression that I needed to slide the entire side of the blade evenly across the surface so that it removes metal uniformly thus maintaining the concave design. Is this not right? Also, if you are using the same method as on a normal stone, doesn't it create a bevel?

Maybe I misunderstand, I admit I am a little slow sometimes but I am trying to learn the proper way to do it! :D
 
Sulaco said:
Thanks, I will give it a shot. I was under the impression that I needed to slide the entire side of the blade evenly across the surface so that it removes metal uniformly thus maintaining the concave design. Is this not right? Also, if you are using the same method as on a normal stone, doesn't it create a bevel?

Maybe I misunderstand, I admit I am a little slow sometimes but I am trying to learn the proper way to do it! :D
Click to expand...

You are close. By pressing down on the mouse pad you create ( or mimic ) the shape of the convex blade. I have some Moras that did have a secondary edge. I used this method to convex it until I was happy. Admittedly this took a long time with a substantial grit, but worked well. If you have an Opinel, this is a good practice knife. Cheap and had a convex grind to start with.
 
Sulaco: you got an early, full VG-10 F1. It will withstand scratches more than the newer, laminated ones. (But laminates withstand more lateral forces.)

The other members said everything about the sharpening methods, so I don't waste more words from that. ;)
 
Thanks for posting that link, TAKULU.

Notice in those instructions the suggestion that you start with 220 grit if the blade is very dull. Otherwise, start with 600 grit and work up to a 2000 grit. Place the blade on the wet/dry paper with the edge facing away from you, and draw the blade back towards you, that is, in a stropping motion.
 
I guess what I am trying to understand is should I leave the blade flat against the sharpening surface or start to raise it up partway through the drawing process?

I have seen recommendations for both methods and neither seem to be working to well for me. I know I must be doing something wrong, I just can't seem to figure out what.

I do pretty well with a normal edge on a benchstone and even better with my Sharpmaker but this edge is really giving me a fit!

It sucks too because I am expecting a Bark River with the same type of edge anyday.
 
Sulaco said:
I guess what I am trying to understand is should I leave the blade flat against the sharpening surface or start to raise it up partway through the drawing process?

I have seen recommendations for both methods and neither seem to be working to well for me. I know I must be doing something wrong, I just can't seem to figure out what.

I do pretty well with a normal edge on a benchstone and even better with my Sharpmaker but this edge is really giving me a fit!

It sucks too because I am expecting a Bark River with the same type of edge anyday.
Click to expand...

I do not raise the spine at all during the stroke. I let the mouse pad do the contur for me and keep it at the same angle through the stroke. It is a basik (flat angle) stropping stroke if that makes sense. Take your time. If you can, buy/borrow/steal (just kidding on the steal part) a Opinel. This is a inexpensive knife with a similar grind to practice on.
 
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