Fallkniven F1

Yes, mine is convex for sure. I guess I need more mousepad. I am using a few of those thin Dell pads stacked up. Maybe there isn't enough give to allow the paper to contour to the shape of the blade. I am about to give up and just reprofile it so I can maintain it with my Sharpmaker. Anyone else done this?
 
Sulaco, don't give up. Once you learn how to maintain it, the convex edge will repay your learning curve.

Follow the guide, the instructions are good. Don't press too hard into the mouse pad or the paper will roll under against the edge and sharpen it away. You may be using too much mousepad and the knife is sinking too far in.

Practice on a smaller, cheaper knife, like that Opinel. Or try to convex a SAK blade. You'll get there. Once you get it, you'll wonder what the fuss was about. :)
 
Sulaco said:
Yes, mine is convex for sure. I guess I need more mousepad. I am using a few of those thin Dell pads stacked up. Maybe there isn't enough give to allow the paper to contour to the shape of the blade. I am about to give up and just reprofile it so I can maintain it with my Sharpmaker. Anyone else done this?

As Esav mentioned, don't give up. You will get it and the convex edge is a fantastic all around use grind. BTW you really should be using a foam mousepad, or cardpoard works well. Somghing with little give thats about 1/8 to 1/4 " thick. Don't press to hard. You will get it. :D
 
Well I hate to say it but I gave up. I re-profiled it on the Sharpmaker and now it sports a stupid sharp 40 degree bevel. I planned to use this knife (hard) so it doesn't really bother me. Maybe one day I will get my hands on an Opinel for practice but for now the Sharpmaker wins.

Thanks for all of the help anyway, I am sure it will help me in the future and anyone else out there who may have the same questions!
 
Can you just sharpen an f1 the "normal way", as in with an oil stone or do you have to use method described here?
 
Can you just sharpen an f1 the "normal way", as in with an oil stone or do you have to use method described here?

If your skilled enough to follow the contour of convex on a stone, go for it. I believe the people at fallkniven actually do it this way.
 
I've been considering buying an F1 or an S1 knife, but this sounds like a huge pain in the ass to sharpen properly.

I take it I cannot just use a fixed angle sharpening stone, like the DMT alligner ?


-Freq
 
I think this is a liner lock - can someone tell me what they think of the lockig system for this brand?
 
240 grit sounds awfully harsh for me, I use that sort of grit usually when I want to remove LOT of steel. I'd use 400 at harshest, unless you really have banged the blade good. Regular sharpening around 800 and finishing with over 1000 and finer the better.

Don't get violent, like mentioned, if you use too much force you ain't sharpening it. If the convex is flat enough, you can just lay the knife on the paper flat like scandi. Usually though, you have to change the angle of the blade so that the very edge touches the paper (or you will be just scratching the sides of the blade). Correct me if Im wrong, but the angle should be so that the edge is touching the paper barely (depending how soft the padding underneth the paper is).

I don't sharpen knives with any other than paper todays. Somehow it's so satisfying and soft way to do it compared to stone. I even sharpen my scandi's with paper (pressing VERY lightly) and I get the best "shaving sharp" results.
 
I've been considering buying an F1 or an S1 knife, but this sounds like a huge pain in the ass to sharpen properly.

I take it I cannot just use a fixed angle sharpening stone, like the DMT alligner ?


-Freq

Yes you can.

Many (all?) Fallknivens come with an angle ground micro bevel from factory.

In fact, Fallknivens web site recommends sharpening their knives with a diamond / ceramic stone, or diamond / ceramic rods.

If you prefer a full convex. The mousepad / sandpaper method is inexpensive and easy to learn.

Kevin
 
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