Fallkniven F1X on Tsprof K03

S

Skunkworkz

Joined
Mar 3, 2022
Messages
39
I need to sharpen the F1X anytime soon, and ordered the convex attachment from tsprof.

Has anyone done this before and can give me some recommendations regarding the general sharpening angle and deviation angle for the convex attachment?

I wanted to keep the knive as close to original as possible, but with repeatable results.

Thanks!
 
I maintain the convex edge on my ancient F1 in humble VG-10 by sharpening freehand with a trailing stroke instead of stroking forward. Same for a few other blades with convex edges, like my SRK. I'd be interested to know how the guided sharpener works, though.
 
I've tried to sharpen my A1X and a Gossman BBT using the KO3 and the convex lens - both have had mediocre results, I just ordered their new convex lens that allows for any degree of difference, which arrived yesterday, so I plan to give that a shot this week/weekend - but I have, with both knives mentioned, simply gone back to a diamond plate and freehand sharpened.
 
Ilikesharpstuff said:
TSProf has some great YouTube videos about using the convex attachment, maybe check those out.
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They do, for sure, but if you look at their edges, they somewhat stretched v-edges, not a full convex, given the OP wants to follow the factory convexity of the blade, I think it'll have to be done freehand, or on a belt system with the tension backed off (which I've also tried on the A1X).
 
GreX said:
They do, for sure, but if you look at their edges, they somewhat stretched v-edges, not a full convex, given the OP wants to follow the factory convexity of the blade, I think it'll have to be done freehand, or on a belt system with the tension backed off (which I've also tried on the A1X).
Click to expand...
I can sharpen freehand, little while ago to be honest, so I have to test it, any tips how to achieve this freehand? On stones, I normally use shapton glass stones. I like the tsprof for the simplicity of it to achieve great results in little time. That is the reason I prefer some tips regarding this system combined with the convex adaptor, because it is so repeatable..
 
Skunkworkz said:
I can sharpen freehand, little while ago to be honest, so I have to test it, any tips how to achieve this freehand? On stones, I normally use shapton glass stones. I like the tsprof for the simplicity of it to achieve great results in little time. That is the reason I prefer some tips regarding this system combined with the convex adaptor, because it is so repeatable..
Click to expand...
I feel you, I actually get quite a lot of joy out of the edges that the KO3 gives, I can get some good edges freehand, but they're not as quick/consistent/symmetrical/repeatable as things on the KO3. I don't have the glass stones, but do have the Shapton splash/go stones, and diamond plates - I just slowly raise the spine of the knife as I'm on the back stroke, and push downwards on the forward stroke (freehand).

As for the convex lens - I have the new one with all the micro-adjustments, but it just showed up and is still in the bag, so not sure there - for the standard convex lens, I have tried both the 7.2° and 10.7°, and prefer the 10.7° convex - as shown in their videos, lower the stone all the way down on the knife to set your angle, I likely went a bit shallow for the A1X, but it was removing enough sharpie for my liking, which was, if I recall, 19.5° (or so), and then did the standard sharpening, but before you move to the next stone, you'll do micro strokes, at the top of the rod stroke (again, its in one of their videos). This worked well enough to get an edge that was sharper than factory, but it wasn't what I'd call factory convexity, as it only went up the blade ~1.5mm or so. Hopefully this is helpful, I can go take photos of what I did as well, just let me know.
 
GreX said:
I've tried to sharpen my A1X and a Gossman BBT using the KO3 and the convex lens - both have had mediocre results, I just ordered their new convex lens that allows for any degree of difference, which arrived yesterday, so I plan to give that a shot this week/weekend - but I have, with both knives mentioned, simply gone back to a diamond plate and freehand sharpened.
Click to expand...

You should consider practicing a convex on pocket stones. Hold the stone with your left hand (between thumb and middle finger), take the blade to the stone (perpendicularly) and with a loose wrist kind of fling it back and forward in a subtle rocking motion.

You get a feel for it quickly, and you don't so much need to see it as you need to hear it and feel it. Buy a cheap ganzo and convex it, very few people discuss this method and I'm not sure why.
 
SwissHeritageCo said:
You should consider practicing a convex on pocket stones. Hold the stone with your left hand (between thumb and middle finger), take the blade to the stone (perpendicularly) and with a loose wrist kind of fling it back and forward in a subtle rocking motion.

You get a feel for it quickly, and you don't so much need to see it as you need to hear it and feel it. Buy a cheap ganzo and convex it, very few people discuss this method and I'm not sure why.
Click to expand...
Cool, I have a DC4 - and I know a couple folks, including Scott (Gossman) said to use stuff like this. I'm always looking to try new stuff and learn :)
 
Skunkworkz said:
I need to sharpen the F1X anytime soon, and ordered the convex attachment from tsprof.

Has anyone done this before and can give me some recommendations regarding the general sharpening angle and deviation angle for the convex attachment?

I wanted to keep the knive as close to original as possible, but with repeatable results.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Your best bet is to use sharpie on your original convex edge and then adjust your angle and amount of convex to match the sharpie.

The most important thing I can recommend is to make sure you use the stoppers. If you don't have a hard stop for both ends of the convex sharpening, your angle will be off. The convex angle will only be accurate if you have hard stops on both leading and trailing strokes.
 
GreX said:
I feel you, I actually get quite a lot of joy out of the edges that the KO3 gives, I can get some good edges freehand, but they're not as quick/consistent/symmetrical/repeatable as things on the KO3. I don't have the glass stones, but do have the Shapton splash/go stones, and diamond plates - I just slowly raise the spine of the knife as I'm on the back stroke, and push downwards on the forward stroke (freehand).

As for the convex lens - I have the new one with all the micro-adjustments, but it just showed up and is still in the bag, so not sure there - for the standard convex lens, I have tried both the 7.2° and 10.7°, and prefer the 10.7° convex - as shown in their videos, lower the stone all the way down on the knife to set your angle, I likely went a bit shallow for the A1X, but it was removing enough sharpie for my liking, which was, if I recall, 19.5° (or so), and then did the standard sharpening, but before you move to the next stone, you'll do micro strokes, at the top of the rod stroke (again, its in one of their videos). This worked well enough to get an edge that was sharper than factory, but it wasn't what I'd call factory convexity, as it only went up the blade ~1.5mm or so. Hopefully this is helpful, I can go take photos of what I did as well, just let me know.
Click to expand...
I have the same attachment on its way, should be here today. I’ve watched the video’s and i get the point of using it, but there is always a difference in knowing and using it.
 
SwissHeritageCo said:
You should consider practicing a convex on pocket stones. Hold the stone with your left hand (between thumb and middle finger), take the blade to the stone (perpendicularly) and with a loose wrist kind of fling it back and forward in a subtle rocking motion.

You get a feel for it quickly, and you don't so much need to see it as you need to hear it and feel it. Buy a cheap ganzo and convex it, very few people discuss this method and I'm not sure why.
Click to expand...
Might be a great tip to expand the skill tree.
There should be a dc4 laying around somewhere.
 
Skunkworkz said:
Might be a great tip to expand the skill tree.
There should be a dc4 laying around somewhere.
Click to expand...

I convex everything this way because I find it to be the easiest/fastest method of sharpening in general. You can really garner a lot of speed after you get the feel for it.

It's an easy way to blend the shoulders out smooth too. I hate crispy shoulders, even when they are on something that's really thin behind the edge, I can feel them when I cut and strop.
 
SwissHeritageCo said:
I convex everything this way because I find it to be the easiest/fastest method of sharpening in general. You can really garner a lot of speed after you get the feel for it.

It's an easy way to blend the shoulders out smooth too. I hate crispy shoulders, even when they are on something that's really thin behind the edge, I can feel them when I cut and strop.
Click to expand...
Stupid question maybe but could you make a short vid on how you are doing that exactly?
 
SwissHeritageCo said:
You should consider practicing a convex on pocket stones. Hold the stone with your left hand (between thumb and middle finger), take the blade to the stone (perpendicularly) and with a loose wrist kind of fling it back and forward in a subtle rocking motion.

You get a feel for it quickly, and you don't so much need to see it as you need to hear it and feel it. Buy a cheap ganzo and convex it, very few people discuss this method and I'm not sure why.
Click to expand...
This is what I do as well.
 
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