Fallkniven Professional Hunter's Knife PHK 5 For bushcraft?

gun and labs, The thinness is dependent on your needs, nothing wrong with a thin convex.
For what it's worth... when I refine a convex I use a hard surface such as plexiglas under wet and dry sandpapers and work the grind just as I would if honing on leather. I continually check the symmetry with an eye loop and also use magic marker to help control where I'm removing material. I move through the grits from 150 to 1500 or 2000. This maintains the convex but changes the radius (increases radius) making the curve flatter. Once the basic reduction is completed, I switch to leather on wood based hones with black and then green compound and a final honing with diamond paste on leather. Refining a factory grind can take a good bit of time, but once you get the blade to where you want it, it's simple and quick to maintain with just the hones.
 
and if you WILL maintain it, you'll spend a lot less time doing touch ups and you'll pick when. A fine /X-fine DMT duo sharp is 600/1200 and works fine to keep the arcs of a convex grind matching, 'bookends'.

Once that's accomplished you can get by with a strop and diamond paste for extended periods of time. Some people find sharpening a relaxing task rather than an obnoxious one; and for those of us who enjoy it, fine tuning the edge is entertainment. I skip the strop to be able to use my highest grit waterstones more often; but that's not efficiency, just personal pleasure.
 
When I think of buse craft, I think of a guy taking off into the woods with a knife and a fire steel for a month.
I like 3G but it wouldn't be my choice to resharpen in the field with limited gear.
That being said, fallkniven does a good job with this steel.
I have most likely been no help but that is my take.
Russ
 
As Esav said, you don't wreck a knife by changing from convex to bevelled, you just are changing it. Put the edge you like on it.
For years, I used an upswept skinner for everything. Some tasks are harder, but you can get used to things. The PHK would be easier/ better than that for a variety of bushcraft tasks. If you need to, it will work. Most bush crafters would rather have a shorter blade in a non chopper.
A defining answer may come from what else you do. If you hunt sometimes, this may be the great do-all knife for you.
 
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See?

The back going up allows more belly AND a point in line with the handle. Now that I have one, the last .9" of blade is spear point.
 
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