Fallkniven S1 vs ESEE RC-6.

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Hopefully last thread for a while.

I intend to buy either the ESEE RC-6 or the Fallkniven S1 I am buying this knife to be my general purpose knife which means it will do everything from skinning to carving but it will not be used as a chopper nor will it probably be batoned very often.My biggest worry is rust as the humidity gets very high here rust is a major major issue every carbon knife I owned got at least mild rust from the air in a matter of days though stainless knives are immune which makes the Fallkniven attractive because I have a mild rust phobia the inch less of blade does not matter to me becuase it will not be a chopper anyway. But two issues with stainless steel is tip breakage and edge deformation from being dropped, how does the fallkniven VG-!) compare to 1095 in durability? I want it to be tough enough the tip wont snap off in a tree and I want the edge to hold up to being dropped on rocks by mistake. Can someone fill me in on the plus and minuses of each knife as well as how tough the fallkniven S1 is? It would be appreciated.

Edit: I don't want to use tufcloth on it because Ill be cutting food with it and mineral oil rubs off too easy so naturally stainless is preferable
 
I'm not gonna be a huge help here because I don't own both, but as long as you use the 1095, the edge wont rust out or pit. The rest is coated and won't rust.
 
I'm not gonna be a huge help here because I don't own both, but as long as you use the 1095, the edge wont rust out or pit. The rest is coated and won't rust.

Perhaps your right but something tells me if I use the knife hard enough to wear the rust off the coating will also wear.
 
Fallkniven S1 is a very tough knife. It is quite a bit smaller than the RC6 as well (physical dimensions wise.

I have knives from both ESEE and Fallkniven. The VG10 from Fallkniven compares very favorably with 1095. It takes and holds an excellent edge and resharpens easily as well.

Both knives will easily meet and exceed all your durability requirements.

Your phobia about 1095 is probably a bit ill founded however since I have carried 1095 knives for years and have carried blades often for months at a time in the field and have never had a 1095 blade rust in normal use. If you dry it after use and oil it occasionaly you will have no problems.

The S1 does have an advantage if you are in an arctic environment in that the handle is insulated. It also has the advantage around seawater and coastal regions.

If your need is for a general field knife which will be used for skinning you may want to look into the ESEE4 (RC4) rather than the RC6 as it is much handier in that use. As to the Fallknivens the F1 would make a better skinner than the S1 but either would work easier for most than the RC4 or 6, this is due to their not having a choil which tends to get caught on the hide when skinning.

Knives fromn either company are excellent tools, made of great materials. So it comes down to which design meets your tastes better.
 
Fallkniven S1 is a very tough knife. It is quite a bit smaller than the RC6 as well (physical dimensions wise.

I have knives from both ESEE and Fallkniven. The VG10 from Fallkniven compares very favorably with 1095. It takes and holds an excellent edge and resharpens easily as well.

Both knives will easily meet and exceed all your durability requirements.

Your phobia about 1095 is probably a bit ill founded however since I have carried 1095 knives for years and have carried blades often for months at a time in the field and have never had a 1095 blade rust in normal use. If you dry it after use and oil it occasionaly you will have no problems.

The S1 does have an advantage if you are in an arctic environment in that the handle is insulated. It also has the advantage around seawater and coastal regions.

If your need is for a general field knife which will be used for skinning you may want to look into the ESEE4 (RC4) rather than the RC6 as it is much handier in that use. As to the Fallknivens the F1 would make a better skinner than the S1 but either would work easier for most than the RC4 or 6, this is due to their not having a choil which tends to get caught on the hide when skinning.

Knives fromn either company are excellent tools, made of great materials. So it comes down to which design meets your tastes better.

The rust is not bad enough to seriously effect the performance but knives will rust if they are not oiled for a few days and its just enough to irritate me extremely. I assume the VG-10 would hold up to a drop or being stabbed into a tree I broke the tip of my buck 110 off into a tree and I didn't even put much pressure.
 
VG10 will hold up to that and much more with no problems at all.

The S1 would be a tremendous choice for a general purpose field and survival knife. I reccomend the leather sheath. The tip of the S1 and all Fallknivens will be MUCH stronger than the tip of your 110 was. due both to superior materials as well as to the convex grind design of the blade.

I traded an RC6 for my F1 as that size blade was one I seldom used. I much prefer the choilless design of the Fallknivens, but the ESEE's are excellent knives.
 
Coincidentally ,I was using my Esee 6 two days ago all day ,and today my S1 to carve up starter for a fire. The S1 is a much smaller package to tote around for general use, especially if you don't baton much. It's a very capable knife. The other fellas told you about the steel, so I won't repeat that here. The S1's convex requires different sharpening techniques, but simple enough to do anywhere you go.
If I had to pick one or the other for general use, I'd go with the S1 ,only because of the size difference. My preference to daily carry or bush knives goes in the 4-5" range ; that's why it's my pick. Both great knives though.
 
Hopefully last thread for a while.

I intend to buy either the ESEE RC-6 or the Fallkniven S1 I am buying this knife to be my general purpose knife which means it will do everything from skinning to carving but it will not be used as a chopper nor will it probably be batoned very often.My biggest worry is rust as the humidity gets very high here rust is a major major issue every carbon knife I owned got at least mild rust from the air in a matter of days though stainless knives are immune which makes the Fallkniven attractive because I have a mild rust phobia the inch less of blade does not matter to me becuase it will not be a chopper anyway. But two issues with stainless steel is tip breakage and edge deformation from being dropped, how does the fallkniven VG-!) compare to 1095 in durability? I want it to be tough enough the tip wont snap off in a tree and I want the edge to hold up to being dropped on rocks by mistake. Can someone fill me in on the plus and minuses of each knife as well as how tough the fallkniven S1 is? It would be appreciated.

Edit: I don't want to use tufcloth on it because Ill be cutting food with it and mineral oil rubs off too easy so naturally stainless is preferable

I only own an S1.

I am sure the ESEE is a fine blade.

I do like carbon steels.

All that said I prefer my S1 over my carbon blades. VG10 is a wonderful steel , it is very strong and durable , it takes and holds a very keen edge due to the harder VG10 yet is stronger than normal because of the laminated steel , simple physics IMO.

Some may not like the rubberish handle on the S1 , but it is there for a reason , you will not lose your grip. The S1 is approved for use by certain branches of our armed forces.

My twenty cents :)

Tostig
 
I have both and finally got to use both actually today (pretty extensively and side by side). I like both (my disclaimer). I have (had) Fallkniven S1, F1, A1 and RC4,5,6,Junglas and Izula and a Bravo 1 (there is more too). In all honesty I like the Fallknivens in almost every way except warranty better than all the knives I have and use! My A1 is my absolute go to blade (Will post some pics but it might be in a different thread). I love the A1! It has been beat more times than Tina Turner and it wants more. Seen dry hardwood such as Oak and Ash. Stuff that turns some knives into a tuning fork! The S1 is also awesome (not nearly as many miles on it yet) but honestly I believe one only needs two Fallknivens F1 and A1. These two blades take the cake for me. I can achieve so many things and so many things well it isnt even funny! I have used so many different blades (Sog Seal Pup Elite, Seal Team Elite, Gerber LMFII, Ontario SP5, Kabar Heavy Bowie, and all those listed above). If I were to start over I would have only gone with these 2. I am yet to be disappointed in the performance from either of these knives. The Grind seems to really make them perform extraordinary...but there is more to it then this.

I have chopped with all the blades over 5". The RC5 was fair at best (I was expecting more) and all the large blade did well as expected but the A1 was really impressive for the weight seems to feel as if it is towards the front more than some of the other blades during heavy chopping. It isnt an unbalanced blade but seems to perform better during chopping. The A1 out chopped the RC6 and 5 and it wasnt even close. The RC6 was better than the RC5 but not a huge margin. The handles on the RC5 and 6 slip easy because they are not designed to hold the palm or allow a 3 finger chopping grip without slippage.

Batoning was very pretty good across the board but I did notice something after numerous batoning outings that the Convex thicker blades on the A1 and S1 would not get stuck as easy as the RCs would. To my surprise this happened more with hard wood! I did a side by side with the A1 and the RC6. The A1 was better and in some extremely dry hard wood the A1 beat the RC6 badly! Even the S1 showed its might considering it is shorter seemed to work better.

Some fine curving work and more (feather sticks and so on) shows even more advantage to the Fallkniven blade and started to distance them against their ESEE counterparts. I started by making a baton stick for fun (not necessary but another test task). So I wanted to curve a handle in each one. I love having a good baton stick. All cut from the same limb. I curved some handles into a few different baton sticks and put to use the RC6 for one and the S1 for another...the S1 made quick more controlled work of this task. It was also easier to achieve the handle contour with the all the Fallknivens than the ESEE, this is purely because of the grind advantage the Fallknivens have over the ESEE...convex seems to really perform.

Now I know this post sounds like I am a spokesmen for the Fallkniven but I do have hang ups with the fallknivens. The handle is a big bitch for me. But not because it is not comfortable...it is extremely comfortable!! It is grippy and absurbs shock extremely well. It is just not nearly as durable as the Micarta that the ESEE has. But as durable as the ESEE handles are they are designed like garbage (let the flame begin). Let me explain...for starter the contour is absolute garbage on most of their designs. Boxy and either too small or too big! Plus the handles on the larger or heavier knives lack the proper shape to help assist in chopping style grips. I do like the ESEE better than all the other knives I have/had except for the Fallknivens! I have just came to find from my use and experience that the Fallknivens seem to perform at a much higher level.

But there is more. Once again so you guys dont think I am a complete and utter Fallkniven fan boy I have one other major hang up...well two more. The Warranty...it SUCKS! it is nowhere near ESEE or Bark River. ESEE and Bark have set the best warranty you can ask for! And finally the cost. ESEE has a great warranty and a reasonable price. The Fallknivens are more expensive but once again IMHO they are a better knife. My first hand experience has warranted the Fallkniven a higher price point.

Ok the JD is done talk...I need Sleepy!
 
Fallkniven S1 is a very tough knife. It is quite a bit smaller than the RC6 as well (physical dimensions wise.

I have knives from both ESEE and Fallkniven. The VG10 from Fallkniven compares very favorably with 1095. It takes and holds an excellent edge and resharpens easily as well.

Both knives will easily meet and exceed all your durability requirements.

Your phobia about 1095 is probably a bit ill founded however since I have carried 1095 knives for years and have carried blades often for months at a time in the field and have never had a 1095 blade rust in normal use. If you dry it after use and oil it occasionaly you will have no problems.

The S1 does have an advantage if you are in an arctic environment in that the handle is insulated. It also has the advantage around seawater and coastal regions.

If your need is for a general field knife which will be used for skinning you may want to look into the ESEE4 (RC4) rather than the RC6 as it is much handier in that use. As to the Fallknivens the F1 would make a better skinner than the S1 but either would work easier for most than the RC4 or 6, this is due to their not having a choil which tends to get caught on the hide when skinning.

Knives fromn either company are excellent tools, made of great materials. So it comes down to which design meets your tastes better.

X2 Pretty much sums up my experience and opinion as well.

My only beef with the ESEE knives is their handle design. I find them square and block like, and uncomfortable in my hand. Since comfort and ergonomics are unique to each individual others may find the handles very much to their liking.

Kevin
 
If you keep the RC-6 (yes, I know they're ESEE now), with a light coating of mineral oil or wipe it with a silicone cloth if you're not doing food prep, then it will be fine for your environment. If you don't want to do that get the S1. Both are superior knives. I have an F1, and RC-3, 4 and 5, so use and like them all.
 
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If you keep the RC-6 (yes, I know they're ESEE now), with a light coating of mineral oil or wipe it with a silicone cloth if you're not doing food prep, then it will be fine for your environment. If you don't want to do that get the S1. Both are superior knives. I have and F1, and RC-3, 4 and 5, so use and like them all.

Unfortunately the best answer seems to be "get both".
 
i went through this choice, except i was looking at the ESEE5, not so long ago and came down on the side of the Fallknivens.

the deciding factors for me were Materials and Grind.

good old 1095 vs the more exotic laminated VG-10.
flat grind vs convex.
 
i went through this choice, except i was looking at the ESEE5, not so long ago and came down on the side of the Fallknivens.

the deciding factors for me were Materials and Grind.

good old 1095 vs the more exotic laminated VG-10.
flat grind vs convex.

Ill probably going to get the fallkniven as I hear the ESEEs come slightly dull and I will not be able to afford a sharpening system for a while as well as sharpening knocks the rust off but can rub the coating off too if you make a mistake not an issue with stainless steel.
 
Ill probably going to get the fallkniven as I hear the ESEEs come slightly dull and I will not be able to afford a sharpening system for a while as well as sharpening knocks the rust off but can rub the coating off too if you make a mistake not an issue with stainless steel.


Based on your concerns with rust, I agree that stainless is probably your best choice.

I'm not a fan of coated blades, in fact I might even go so far as to say I downright dislike them, but I have to give RAT (ESEE) full marks for their coating. It is extremely tough and holds up well.

Also, plan on sharpening sooner, rather than later. My experience is that factory edges don't hold as well as one that has been sharpened past the factory edge and into "virgin" steel. OMMV

Kevin
 
The ESEE are certainly NOT dull. They come razor sharp from the factory. I would say some of the best factory edges I have came across yet. And they hold and edge well. The 1095 they use is a common knife steel but they do an exceptional heat treating job that give their knives an unbelievable durability and edge retention! I do however still prefer the VG10 because I have had and experienced first hand excellent performance and durability from them all.
 
Whatever you pick.. I just wanted to point out also all My Esse Knives shave hair straight out of the box. And are easy to sharpen. You are gonna need at least a cheap stone to sharpen your knife. If you learn how to use a stone you won't need a fancy setup :)
 
Ill probably going to get the fallkniven as I hear the ESEEs come slightly dull and I will not be able to afford a sharpening system for a while as well as sharpening knocks the rust off but can rub the coating off too if you make a mistake not an issue with stainless steel.

i'd strongly advise you to add a DC-3 or a DC-4 stone to your order.
 
VG10 is great steel, and almost any knife, IMO, will chip or roll if you cut into/drop hard enough onto rocks/granite/metal etc.. Just chop onto wood, and you shouldn't get any issues with your edge chipping or rolling.

You should at least learn how to sharpen, and if you want a knife that will be easy, IMHO to sharpen in the field, go convex. But then again, there are plenty of guys who find sharpening V-grind in the field just as easy.

hey Sambo, how hard is it to sharpen a convex ground knife on the DC4 stone? I'm thinking of getting one as well.
 
hey Sambo, how hard is it to sharpen a convex ground knife on the DC4 stone? I'm thinking of getting one as well.

'tis eZ.

might take a small amount of practice and i reccomend you try the felt-tip-pen trick while learning.

you need a slightly steeper angle than you would feel comfortable with if it was a flat-grind, but not by much.

anyone with enough intelligence to use a computer and read this post can learn to do it if they put their minds to it.

i have a DC3 stone and will get a DC4 with my next order (the '3 is pretty small).

be warned, when brand new, the diamond side of those Fallkniven stones is freakishly abrasive.
 
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