This knife I did actually has three different bevels,not the best picture but you might be able to see what I am talking about..The main cutting edge then a full back edge that is not sharpened so it could be called a false wedge,then the clip is also a different bevel that is sharpened but is also called a sharpened false edge (not the main cutting edge)
Now this one has a back edge that is a narrow grind but sharpened all the way,called a false edge or sharpened false edge...
This one has a full length false edge that is not sharpened thus a false edge
you can see others here or around my site.
http://www.beknivessite2.homestead.com/album7.html
The reason I have posted this is I get around the False edge statement or sharpened false edge statement by calling them a "Back edge" the only time I call them a false edge is when it is a bevel cut into a clip that is in no way sharpenable,these are put on the clip to reduce the metal on the back edge of the clip from grinding in the main bevel so the knife has a thinner point section thus cuts and penetrates better.so in my opinion if it is sharp or close to sharp it is a sharpened back edge or just a back edge-and if it is a stock reducing bevel it is a false edge...not sure if my thinking is correct but it tells what I have put on a knife better in my opinion..not that that is worth that much.
now to your quenching problem,you have a little longer window with 5160 to quench than you do with some of the other carbon steels,you figured out the fact that you cant quench in a thin layer of oil.Make your self a quench tank that gives at least three inches of oil deep then put a block of aluminum in the tank that will let you set the edge of the blade at the depth you want your edge quench to be at,heat the oil,now when you set the blade in go tip first then rock it down to the point you want the edge to stop at,now dont rock again untill all the color is out of the back edge (black) now you can rock it if you want or stick the whole blade down in the oil tank untill cool,then go temper it in the oven.If you are grinding the bevels in the blade before you quench dont make the edge to thin,as you will burn some carbon out of the edge when you heat to quenching temp.thus a little bite of the file will occur.The old saying that a good handmade knife will not reach it's full cutting potential untill after at least 4 sharpenings is due to this,so if you leave your edge a little thicker then quench and finish grind you will grind off this slightly carbonless part of the edge and thus your knife will be at full cutting potential when you test it the first time.Dont use the brass rod test untill after you do the finish grind on your edge either or you will get a false reading..Hope I have made sense here.
remeber this is all just my 2 cents worth and you can take it for what it is my opinion.
and welcome to the forums..
Mike and Dan,Awesome knives from both of you..
Bruce