Fancy steels

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Sep 7, 2001
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I've read a little about the fancy steels used in some commercially available pieces of cutlery. Is there any creedence to their claims?

How do they compare to recycled leaf springs?

I know by tempering can one achieve the same things such as edge retention or ease of sharpening. How does the fancy steels affect these factors?

Or is it all hype?

:confused:
 
If you get a smith who doesn't really know what they're doing, or aren't paid enough to care about what they're doing it doesn't matter what steel you use, the product will reflect it's poor construction.
5160's a great steel, and can do just about anything you want to do with it, and it's supposedly forgiving for heat-treatment. These are the big reasons it's also popular with smiths in this country. On the other hand, I hear that Howard Clark makes Katanas out of L6 that are supposedly indestructible, but it's also a pita to work with from what I've heard, which is why he charges almost six-thousand for them.

Everyone's moving to tool steels, and most of the information I've found on other sites seems to indicate that this is usually a marketing ploy; "Our steel is used to cut other steels." Yeah, well not other steels that have been heat cycled to similar hardnesses though. I'm sure Yvsa and others are far more qualified to answer with more detail so I'll shut up now.
 
is a fascinating and engrossing subject. The popularity seems to run in progressions, from 44C to 154CM, to ATS34, to whatever. Each steel and its' variations have their own properties, and some of them belong to the maker more than to the user (easier to forge-temper-grind etc.,). The plain fact is that any GOOD steel, well formed into a blade and well tempered (D2, by Bob Dozier, Mercedes Leaf Springs by BirGorkha) are far in excess of what most users are capable of appreciating, or needing in their daily use. There are special users (divers, guides, trappers) who might actually see the benefits of the specialty steels, but in the competition to stay "on the cutting edge" of sales, the newer steels will rise to the top continuously. This does not mean they are hype - not at all. Still, while the newer steels continue to crop up, the users stay mainly in the same spot - "My D2 Skinner will skin out a deer with one sharpening and slice cheese all week". Substitute anything you like for D2, and there we are :rolleyes:
 
The latest and greatest steels, like the latest and greatest folder locks, are largely marketing hype. One of the best all around cutlery steels is and continues to be 440-C. It is actually starting to regain a share of the ATS-34 and 154-CM market. You have got to take your hat off to people like HI and Randall Made Knives that simply ignore the rethoric and stick with what works.

Also, we should remember that our khukuries work very differently from most knives. We are talking about knives that are subject to very high levels of stress. The very hard alloyed steels, that work so well in pocket knives, would probably fail under these conditions.

N2S
 
Originally posted by BruiseLeee
I've read a little about the fancy steels used in some commercially available pieces of cutlery. Is there any creedence to their claims?

Yes

How do they compare to recycled leaf springs?

Some compare very well. A few exceed spring steels performance in certain areas.

I know by tempering can one achieve the same things such as edge retention or ease of sharpening. How does the fancy steels affect these factors?

Many of the fancy steels are very hard to sharpen and requires more advanced hones such as the ceramics and diamonds in order to sharpen efficiently.

Or is it all hype?


NO, it's not all hype. Many of the fancy steels have their place if one needs their abilities. Most people do not.


You are not alone.;)

Bruise after buying and using a couple of the new fancy steels I have determined that my favorite and all that I require is still a good carbon spring steel.

Yes they do have a tendency to rust more, but then I have seldom had a rust problem even when living near the ocean, but that's just me.
There are some people with so much acidity in their bodies that they can cause steel to rust just by touching it.
I once worked with a fellow who's micrometers and other steel tools that weren't chrome plated were all rusty. He had a helluva time with rust and constantly fought it. Micrometers don't work well if they're all rusty, let alone other machinist's tools.
A problem with the so called stainless steels is that they're not really stainless. They are just stain less. And many of the new ones will rust almost as quickly as some carbon steels so I've read.
I personally don't know.

Dan K who used to be a regular here had a very valid point as to hardness of knife blades. Dan always said that a knife didn't have to be all that hard and IIRC Dan preffered his on the soft side for ease of sharpening.
I have always been one who prefer a harder blade so that the edge will last longer. Just different strokes for different folks.:)
And although I prefer a harder blade I do agree with what Dan says.......
There would be certain times in other areas of the world that I might prefer a softer blade.

The little Camillus 154CM Talon I have I really like. I also got the EDC in 154CM.
The edges on these little knives seem to last forever and with a nice ceramic hone are not hard to sharpen at all.
I like this steel and would probably buy another if I really liked the knife.
If I didn't have a ceramic hone or it would be difficult for me to get one I would stick with my carbon steel.

I also have a Busse E-Battle Mistress and a Busse Basic 9 that are both very fine knives, one made from INFI steel and the other Modified INFI.
These knives are everything everyone says about them. Would I buy another?
Probably not.
The reason is that I just do not need that level of performance.
The other reason is that I find INFI hard to sharpen personally, the Modified INFI isn't quite as bad for me.
And I'm in the minority among the ones who find either one of these steels hard to sharpen, maybe I just don't hold my mouth
right.:)

The bottom line is that I agree with my Bro Walosi.
What most people don't stop to realize is that good carbon steel well heat treated has been the mainstay for hundreds of years. And IMO will be for several hundred more.
It is fun playing with new and different steels, but in reality most people will never require the level of performance that some of the fancy steels deliver and in that case much of what's said about the fancy steels is hype.
The WW II Kabar is a good in point. The Kabar has a rather thin blade for a military knife that was expected to do so much and did. Yea some of them broke, but that was usually because of expecting too much from the knife.
Just think how many survived the war and went on to become a treasured hunting knife because it had seen you through the really hard times.
You knew it was dependable!!!!
Just look at what happened to a certain Sirupati one day when Uncle Bill got pissed off.
It took a lot of force to cause that Sirupati to do what it did and it dayumed sure wasn't designed for that kind of treatment!!!!
Knives aren't designed to do everything although a good khukuri approaches that goal methinks.:)

Man has ever looked for a better material for knife blades. I imagine that when our tools were chipped from stone that each tool master had his own favorite type of stone and the area it came from.
Obsidian was traded all over the continental USA before it was ever named.
I don't know that it was a superior tool and actually I think obsidian is more brittle than good old Oklahoma Flint.:)
Yes, the obsidian will no doubt chip to a much sharper edge, but it gets back to the old story, "Do you want an edge that will last or one that's super sharp that you have to be careful of not chipping?"
The story in reality hasn't changed.
Has it?;)

5160 or old Mercedes Benz Springs is my favorite steel for large knives made for chopping.
There are a few well known custom makers who feel the same way about 5160.
52100 done up right by some makers such as my friend and fellow Cherokee Ray Kirk is my favorite smaller knife steel say up to 12 inches or so.
But with what Ray has been doing with 52100 my views may change and it may become that in reality, "Size does not matter."

The only reason my Raker knife made by Ray isn't my daily carry is because I would hate to have it taken from me in todays fearful world.
Perhaps one of these days I will get Ray to do me up something around 4 inches with a nice sweeping edge and nice point outta 52100.

On the other side of the coin I know it would be great fun to be able to buy and check out each and every new knife steel or other material like the well known Taolonite(r) to come along.
I think everyone would like to be somewhat like Cliff Stamp, Dr.Walt Welch, and the survivalist guys who get to take new and exciting knives to new and exciting places in the world.

Another good dream.:)...................

(I think most of us would like to see how any good heat treated piece of sharp carbon steel with a nice recurved edge would perform when placed at Bin Laundry's throat and given a quick smooth pull sideways.:))

Another good dream.:)...................
 
Thanks for all your answers. I guess I won't be needing any fancy knives for peeling apples anytime soon. :)

Can one tell the type of leaf springs in one's khuks by the look and feel? I have noticed that the surface of the few khuks that I have are noticably different. It could be just the finish but there seems to be some sort of grain pattern in one.

Has anyone noticed performance difference in the different types of springs?

Having Mercedez Benz steel in my knives is probably fancy enough for me. :D
 
Bruiser -
I doubt seriously if you will have anything but Mercedes steel (Saab, at worst :)). There are some light differences in the finishes on my blades as well, no doubt due to the amount of rouge/magic powder applied to the wheel, whether the kami or an apprentice did the polishing, etc., etc. One had marks from "something" (perhaps a bit of hard slag) which had been picked up in the wheel and skidded across the blade. Surprisingly enough, it was on a Sanu. A short session with a Dremel felt drum and some red rouge wiped it off. Also, the wax (or whatever) appied to the blades at BirGorkha seems to vary. A good cleaning with WD-4, rubbing alchohol, or any good solvent will take it off, but not always on the first try. A Jag & Prem blade needed several - it was farther down to the bare metal than it appeared.
 
Originally posted by BruiseLeee
Thanks for all your answers. I guess I won't be needing any fancy knives for peeling apples anytime soon. :)

It could be just the finish but there seems to be some sort of grain pattern in one.

Having Mercedez Benz steel in my knives is probably fancy enough for me. :D

I don't know if what I've seen are grain differences, but I have noticed on a couple of my khuks that the grain or something in the steel does seem to be larger.
This is just in a couple of places, not the whole blade.
I know one area is up toward the bolster and is on the upper part of the blade. I couldn't tell you what khukuris have this without digging them all out and looking.
I haven't bothered to try and polish the places out as they don't bother me. Whatever the discrepancy is it doesn't seem to hurt the performance of the knife.
I wouldn't worry about them, didn't really think too much about it until Bruise made the post.:)

Ray Kirk has some really neat one of a kind blades made from 52100. They have great appeal to me as they remind me of H.I.'s Villager's.
Ray calls them "Wirk Knives."
You can find them on Ray's website....http://www.tah-usa.net/raker/

As Uncle Bill says about the villagers, "They're ugly but tough and will do a days work."
They also kinda remind me of the Scandinavian Knives in that they have been left rough except for the edge and getting the tang suitable for a handle.
I almost bet that Uncle Bill will like them as well. Sometimes things have their beauty in their funtion and not their looks.:)
 
I agree with most on this topic!! A lot of the new steels are hardened over 64 on the RC scale. Take the CPM steels like 440V and 420V they hold a great edge but are so brittle they chip out if you hit anything like a simple staple! To me brittlness is a very poor trait to have in a using knife. I would rather have a soft, tougher blade and loose an edge faster than to have a super hard blade that would snap in half with any lateral pressure on it. I have been using a Chris Reeve Sebenza for 5 years and the blade is made of BG-42 which I think is by far the best stainless steel out there! It is a strong, durable steel and holds a great edge. The reason BG-42 is so great is the way it is made in Latrobe, PA. It is so clean and refined that when it is finished there is no impurities at all in the steel. So as far as the "new" steels go I have to say BG-42 is best.

I think 52-100, A-2, INFI, 1095, are probibly the best carbon, nonstainless steels you will get and 5160 is the overall best when heattreated right. 5160 is just so strong and felxable and holds a fine edge it is the perfect medium!

5160 I beleve is an American steel and the Japanese liked it so much they developed there own version and called it SUP-9. SOG once used it in there Tigershark bowie knife but have since changed it to 440A.
 
So much information to digest. I guess being raised in the TV generation I tend to believe the marketing hype sometimes. I think the "new Tide with bleach" will make my clothes cleaner than the old stuff. Living in the "big smoke" most of my cutlery will never see too much hard use. :p

Isn't it wonderful to be a part of the quick fix, consumer generation? :0

Maybe I'll throw away the tv...
 
I go to college, most of my homework and notes are online.
I dont have time for TV, and it is the BEST thing that has ever happened to me.
I do a alot more physical activity, have a lot more laughs, and hey I got the Forum. What more could I as for?
 
Aye, you've all pretty much covered what I would say.

One thing I will add. Many steels on production knives were picked because of their suitability for mass production. There is a trade off.

Some of the advanced steels clearly do work very well in certain circumstances. The more advanced steels have closed the gap somewhat between the handforged and production blade. Some of the super hard tempered steels will hold an edge longer. They will also take you ( a lot ) longer to sharpen.

For the most part a good carbon steel will do pretty much anything you need. Some special steels will do some jobs better. Know what you need.

Yvsa, thank you for the link on those Ray Kirk knives. I might have to get me one of those Werk knives in the not too distant future. They look a real bargain.

My closing point-I've yet to see the knife that I wanted to spend two hours sharpening ;)
 
T.V. was probibly the worst invention. One good thing to come out of it was the truth...The X-files!!!!!!:D Best show ever!!!!
 
Originally posted by SkagSig40
T.V. was probibly the worst invention. One good thing to come out of it was the truth...The X-files!!!!!!:D Best show ever!!!!

Yea until Fox got too danged big fer his britches wanting more and more money until the network wouldn't pay it anymore.
It's a good thing they still have Skully or the show would be a complete bust.
I never was one that was real good at actors real name's. It was years before Captain Kirk truly became William Shatner to me. He and Michael Fox always seems to me to have went to the same character acting school. They looked like father and son when it came to gestures.:)
 
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