Fatwood

A lightening struck tree is an excellent source for fatwood.

I bought some of the stuff that is sold in our local Orchard Supply Hardware. It comes 50 sticks to the package and when curling pieces off of it, there's no doubt that it's full of sap.

Longbow,

I'm not sure a lightning strike necessarily produces fatwood. Lightning struck trees die in a hurry and the roots are toast as well. All of the moisture is blasted out, so it makes great firewood. I have used lightning struck wood as firewood and it is great for that purpose.

Fatwood usually is created when a tree is cut/broken off, leaving a stump. the roots continue to pump sap into the stump, not knowing it is dead. The result is a stump that is supersaturated in sap.

That being said, I haven't tried to use lightning strike shavings as tinder, so if you have specific experience doing so, I'll concede. :cool:

--FLIX
 
I have seen some trees about 3/4 length be lightered (perhaps from the top breaking out?) but the quality of it does not compare at all to that of a stump. Like RB said be careful with the stuff. I cut up a big load and set it by the fireplace (I love the smell!!!) Well there were a bunch of people over and some of use were out side talking when fire started coming out of the chimney. Someone had thrown the whole batch in the fireplace. Needless to say the creosote in the chimney caught fire. It was roaring something fierce. We opened the windows and the fire was roaring so bad that it was sucking the curtains toward the fireplace. If the curtains had been longer it would have sucked them right in. So please use sparingly.
 
I found one recently, been making wood stove fires using it. It starts a fire with just a small piece, amazing stuff.

Mine drips resin out when lit and burning, hisses and puts off rich black smoke.

I have enough out of one stump to last several years I think.

See second picture down on link below,

http://www.watersheds.org/farm/tarkiln.htm


Robbie Roberson ;)
 
Picture713.jpg


Close up.
 
Chris,

Your right, I don't know what the hell I'm talking about. Perhaps you can help me out?

At what concentration level of resin does it formally (or magically) become fatwood?

Doesn't the tree need to die or break off, or be cut, during spring or summer in order for the resins to flow upward? They wouldn't do so during a dorment period, would they?

Lastly, What is turpentine and where does it come from?


Let me be more specific about my Pine tree in question.
It had died, how, I don't know. Dead standing, but of course, breaking off.
Don't know if it broke off before or after dying.
Happened before I moved here. I cut the bottom portion off. Parts are dense and gummed up my sawchain, other parts were dryer.

There is another pine tree that died standing. ( I have about an acre of them in one corner of my property) I don't know if it was disease, or lightning, or what. It basically rotted into that fibrous spongey material, EXCEPT, in the middle, there was about an 8-inch diameter inner core of almost solid resinous wood, it even glistens in the sunlight. Maybe it can't be called fatwood since part of the base was decayed, it becomes a matter of semantics I guess.
So what appeared to be a 100% spongey rotted mass, ended up having an inner core of deeply resinous wood. That one takes flame immediately, and burns with blackened smoke.

What am I missing here? Why doesn't it qulaify as fatwood?

Why does fatwood have to come from the perfect un-rotted stump?

Does it have to be in the Carolinas to qualify as fatwood?
or does the entire stump have to be saturated with it, 100% ?

Flammable highly resinous wood, thats what it is, by any name.
 
I found one recently, been making wood stove fires using it. It starts a fire with just a small piece, amazing stuff.

Mine drips resin out when lit and burning, hisses and puts off rich black smoke.

I have enough out of one stump to last several years I think.

See second picture down on link below,

http://www.watersheds.org/farm/tarkiln.htm


Robbie Roberson ;)

Hey Robbie, Iv'e been burning woodstoves to heat my home my entire life.
Also cleaned my fair share of metal and masonry chimneys.

I would advise that you NOT burn soft resinous wood, fatwood, or whatever you want to call it in a stove. It will build up creosote like crazy, can clog your chimney at the least, or after a period of using it, cause a flue fire. We have always steered clear of all softwoods for this reason, they contain levels of resin, fatwood or not.

Maybe if you are only using a little piece for lighting, then maybe, but some dried hardwood kindling sticks/twigs will do the same thing, without risk of creosote build up. You build most of the creosote right at the beginning of the fire, when the flue is still cool and the product condenses and sticks to it.

Now, with that said, My uncle in Tennessee had nothing but Pine trees, about 10 acres worth. And he did burn pinewood in his woodstove, but, he split it, and allowed his pine wood to age for about 4 years, thoroughly drying it out.
He claimed this helped cut down on pitch and creosote. I gotta believe him, if only for having the fortitude to be able to plan his firewood needs 4 years in advance.
Better than me by a long shot, I'm doing good staying one full season ahead of myself.

PS: With these cold temps we've been having lately I have been burning some wood, the pile is dwindling!
 
Skunk,
I am certainly no expert, and in no way meant to infer that you didn't know what you were talking about. I can only speak of what I have found and it has all been stumps, that certainly doesn't mean that is the be all end all. From what you describe I would certainly classify as the same, email me your address and I will send you some of what I find and you can compare the two and report back, then we will know there is another way to find a useful item. Chris

EDIT: I would say that what you found is exactly the same, it was standing deadwood and that is how I find resinous wood, I originaly thought you cut the log and layed it aside to turn, I do not believe that will work because the roots are not present.
 
Chris, No harm taken or intended, as always, if we don't beat it back n forth sometimes, we won't learn. I think the WAG thing stuck in my craw. :mad:

BUT! I think I just found part of the equation.
You, my friend, are in North Carolina, which is "Ground Zero" for the entire Tar, Turpentine, call it, Fatwood industry!! Basically where you are has the best FATWOOD in the world. Bar none. So, where I am (Maryland) finding scrapes and scraps, here and there, you are finding the equivalent of GoldMines.
Solid masses of PURE fatwood. hat's off to ya! :thumbup:

Below is what I just found reading about the Gum Turpentine and the Tar indudstry from mid 1800's to early 1900s.
It all centers around the highly resinous wood of that region.
I'm guessing the farther North or West you go, the less "quality" of resinous wood we would find. You would find an entire stump soidified, I would find "partial" ?? That is certainly just a guess, but not wild. ;)

i found this very interesting, here it is:

In the early decades of the twentieth century, the longleaf pine region was responsible for producing 70 percent of the world's supply of naval stores-the collective name for products such as tar, pitch, spirits of turpentine and rosin obtained from the pine tree. A century earlier, the dominance of North Carolina in the production of turpentine earned it the title of Tarheel State (for the black gummy tar that would accumulate on the bare feet of workers). It was the highly resinous wood (often called fatwood or lightwood) of the longleaf pine tree that made it so desirable and sparked the naval stores industry throughout much of the south. The term naval stores was originally applied to the pitch and tar needed for caulking wooden ship planks and waterproofing canvas sails of the seagoing vessels of the Royal British Navy in the seventeenth century. As the industry evolved, the distillation of fatwood shifted to the processing of pine gum (oleoresin) extracted from the living pine tree. Around 1850, the production of gum turpentine peaked in North Carolina and began to spread southward through the longleaf pine belt as northerly forest were exhausted. In fact, the movement of many families in the South can be traced the naval stores industry.

Gum from the pine tree was distilled into rosin and spirits of turpentine in what has been described by many as "oversized liquor still". The collection and processing of pine gum was a year round ordeal and often required a large work force. Laborers would work their way from tree to tree chipping shallow gutters (called streaks) into the fresh wood of the tree face with a tool called a hack. This cut face and aluminum gutters nailed to the tree would direct the gum down into a "box" that was notched at the bottom of the tree by a broad axe. However, these boxes were often very destructive-essentially girdling the tree at its base. In the early years of the twentieth century, technology improvements allowed gum to be collected in clay or metal cups hung from the tree by a nail. The cut faces were sometimes called "catfaces".

A squad of workers traveled from tree to tree dipping gum from the cups or scraping the gum from the tree face (called scrape) and depositing it into barrels. When a worker finished his task on a tree, he would sing out a particular name he had chosen for himself. A talleyman would record this song with a dot. The number of dots determined a worker's pay. Barrels of gum were hauled to a nearby distillery and refined. All operations were overseen by the mounted "wood's rider".



Hope this was as informative to everyone as I found it to be.

I think Runningboar has said it before this, we are always learning things, which is why we come to this forum. agreed. :thumbup:
 
I didn't read all of your post yet, I had to explain the WAG, I was talking about myself, not you. Half of MY explanation was a WAG.:D
 
I did read the rest now, and it was very informative, I did not know that I lived in an area with a history of resinous pine, I wish it was still worth money.:p

As I have said many times, I learn things here everyday. Chris
 
I didn't read all of your post yet, I had to explain the WAG, I was talking about myself, not you. Half of MY explanation was a WAG.:D

That's what I get for reading words and not meaning! DOH!
Apologies to you, and all reading.
I'm a butt head.

Yeah, it appears you live in the FORT KNOX of FATWOOD! :thumbup:
You can even make tar and turpentine outta the stuff! :eek:

I have always said "Southern Yellow Pine" , but they are properly referring to LongLeaf Pines, to be exact.

I wonder what other conifers across NorthAmerica produce similar flammable resins, at least enough to be used for Wilderness and Survival Situations?

Is it all of them? Some of them?

Those folks in the West, does something like Ponderosa Pine contain these resins? Does it make them more flammable?

This gets us back around to the tinder subject, where to find, and what to use.
 
I know in middle Georgia 40 years ago they were still cutting (putting a gash in them) the pine trees and putting a pan under the cut to catch the sap. My uncle would put some of the sap into the boiling water that you dip the hogs in when butchering hogs. It helped get the hair off the hogs. Perhaps cutting the trees like that makes them turn to lightered. Where I lived at in Georgia, across the street on the property there was and old log cabin there that had huge beams holding the floor up that was old growth lightered. They had to be way over 100 years old but looked in great shape. Those pioneers new what they were doing so there must be some way to turn a tree to lightered to harvest huge beams at least 14"x14"x30' I waited for years for the house to fall in so I could get those beams. But it is still standing and I live in Washington now. By the way, the house they built next to it, the planking on the outside was lightered, but it was not high grade. All the pine trees have veins of resin in them, so you can kick a dead downed tree and get some low grade lightered. The knots are high grade and you can find them laying on the forest floor long after the tree has decayed and vanished. The strength of the smell will tell you how good it is. Hope this helps some.
 
Skunk,
I am certainly no expert, and in no way meant to infer that you didn't know what you were talking about. I can only speak of what I have found and it has all been stumps, that certainly doesn't mean that is the be all end all. From what you describe I would certainly classify as the same, email me your address and I will send you some of what I find and you can compare the two and report back, then we will know there is another way to find a useful item. Chris

EDIT: I would say that what you found is exactly the same, it was standing deadwood and that is how I find resinous wood, I originaly thought you cut the log and layed it aside to turn, I do not believe that will work because the roots are not present.

I find all of this to be quite facinating. I cant wait until the snow is gone and I can do some real pine stump hunting. Im in the Boreal forest zone so their is a wide variety of trees here. Tree sap certainly has had a multitude of uses through time. As a youngster in Southern Ontario I used to tap maple trees and boil maple syrup. It took a LOT of sap for a small amount of syrup, but man it smelled SO GOOD while it was boiling down! :D

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sap_(plant)
 
Skunkwerkz - I have found outstanding fatwood in some Ponderosa pines. I have seen mediocre fatwood in lodgepole pines. I'll keep looking...
 
Longbow,

I'm not sure a lightning strike necessarily produces fatwood. Lightning struck trees die in a hurry and the roots are toast as well. All of the moisture is blasted out, so it makes great firewood. I have used lightning struck wood as firewood and it is great for that purpose.

Fatwood usually is created when a tree is cut/broken off, leaving a stump. the roots continue to pump sap into the stump, not knowing it is dead. The result is a stump that is supersaturated in sap.

That being said, I haven't tried to use lightning strike shavings as tinder, so if you have specific experience doing so, I'll concede. :cool:

--FLIX

I'm only going on what other's have shared with me. In particular an old man that I happened on in the woods while bowhunting deer. He was headed to what he called a struck tree and I walked along with him to check it out. He had cut what was left of the tree down and he told me that when the tree was struck, all the sap drained to the base of the tree and when we got to where the remains of the stump was, it was saturated with the stuff. So I assumed that he was telling the truth and that all struck trees would react the same.
 
I too have seen trees leaning that had died that was lightered, but it was low grade stuff, not worth my trouble. It could be something like the dope growers would do to their plants. They would take a knife and make a vertical cut at the base of the plant and stick a wedge in it. Make the plant think it was dyeing and pump out the resins to "save itself".
 
After reading more of your posts Im wondering if I will even find decent fatwood around here. Im pretty north and this may be a factor. Shorter growing season, colder climate etc. However, Ill still look as I have seen oozing pine trees for years and years, just never bothered with stumps. B.T.W. RunningBoar I do feel that your fatwood still has value. Maybe consider EBAY. A pic of that stump, a description and short history of the region explaining why your fatwood is excellent, then sell a bundle of decently cut kindling or sticks. I bet you could make a few bucks off it pretty easily with minimal cost and effort.
 
Lambertiana, thanks, that helped answer my question, it appears that there are fairly resinous flammable pines elsewhere. from a Wildereness and Survival standpoint this is good info.

Upnorth, let us know what you find. I think you too may be able to find a similar product, perhaps not exactly Fatwood, but still with enough resin content to serve as a good fire starter. let us know!

I've learned a lot as a result of this post.

From a historical & geographic perspective the "original" Fatwood was from LongLeaf Pine in the Carolinas and Ga.

By strict definition, what we find in Maryland (as an example) is highly resinous wood, resulting from the similar process, however we may be too far north for it truely to be "FatWood". I'm fairly sure ours is Southern Yellow Pine...I'll be checking on that.

Before this thread, I was calling all resinous woods FatWood, but I think there is enough history and documentation that it deserves retaining it's true meaning.

So, it appears conifers, through the sapping/resin flow process, can produce these flammable resins in different concentrations in deifferent species. The Honduran and Rainforest species also produce similar flammable resins (Don't even know if they are conifers).

Perhaps the Sales people and marketing folks are doing a disservice to the history of Fatwood by packaging anything similar, and generically calling it FatWood.
It appears that all of these woods may be highly resinous/very flammable wood, but "true" Fatwood is from the Long leaf Pine, in the Carolinas, using a strict historical definition.

Runningboar is at the epicenter of Fatwood, there in North Carolina.
I think his picture of the stump, with that orangish/reddish colored dense wood is "museum quality" fatwood. the real McCoy.
 
Ponderosa wood is normally pretty low in resin content, but under the right conditions will form really good fatwood. You can walk through ponderosas for a long time before finding fatwood, but when you finally find some, the payoff can be huge.

Other things to consider are the resin-soaked cones of some species. For example, Foxtail Pine (usually found around 10,000-11,000' in the Sierras) has cones that, when green, are literally dripping in sap. I haven't tried to light any of them, but they might be worth a try. Jeffrey Pine cones (found around 7000-9000' in the Sierras) are similar in this respect, and also have the benefit of offering true variety in the aroma of the sap. I have seen some that have a strong pine smell, some that were lemony, and some that smelled like vanilla candy. Even if the green cones don't light well, they can be a source of resin to smear onto better tinder.

Other options are healing wounds in the tree. Sometimes the wound will develop a glaze of resin, and the wood that grows to cover the wound will have very high resin content. I found some good resin-soaked Lodgepole wood like that last summer.

I have heard that knots where branches grow out of the trunk are also full of resin, but I haven't really investigated that.
 
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