Hi all,
I am taking a marketing/research class and I am hoping that I could get some feedback about your favorite features on your knives and how you use your knives in the field.
Please feel free to answer any, all or none of the questions. Any level of help you could provide would greatly assist me and would be appreciated.
1.) What are the primary environments that you work in? (Multiple Choice)
a.) Desert (dust / dirt) Dusty, dirty, DRY AND HOT
e.) City / Urban - I would suggest you include "suburbs" where a larger percentage of the population with a yard are more likely to put their knives to use, say for gardening and hedge trimming. I certainly do.
2.) Do you regularly wear gloves when using your tools?
d.) Depends - most of the time, no gloves. Some percentage of the time I'm forced to, such as when working on the rose bushes, the cacti, or the dwarf lime trees, which has nothing to do with the handle of the knife and everything to do with brush chewing up my knuckles, wrists and forearms. These gloves are the big leather type that make your forearms sweaty because they extend almost up to the elbow.
3.) Do you prefer folding or non-folding knives?
d.) Depends - Folding - Only when a fixed blade monster is not realistic, such as a night on the town, at the office or under any other condition under which display of a sheathed knife would draw unwanted attention.
Non-folding - In all other circumstances, preference is for a medium to large sheath knife. More versatility.
4.) What handle materials do you prefer?
Wood / Bural
Micarta
G10
Carbon Fiber
You need an "it depends" here. Pretty knives that you don't intend to gut and skin animals with can have lapis, shell, precious or semi-precious stones, precious metal inlays, ivory, amber, etc. inset into the haft. For a hard working knife which is much less adorned, I just want a material that won't disintegrate, fall off, crack and must be well textured. Anything can go for a "show" knife, but for a working blade, haft materials that are very smooth tend to get slippery the first time it gets wet, gets bloody, muddy or oily. As important as "material" is, to me "texture" is equally so. Also, Horn, bone and antler materials tend to dry and crack if you don't care for them properly, but they can be reasonably tough if stabalized correctly. Linen micarta, G10 and a great many of the oily medium and hard woods make great materials, particularly if slotted, notched, knurled or dimpled for a secure grip. I also don't like a haft that has been exposed to the sun getting too hot to touch, so bare metal would be equally bad for both very cold and very hot climates (solid brass, copper, aluminum or magnesium handles).
5.) What type of serrations do you prefer?
b.) No Seratons - I would have asked if you prefer plain/straight edges or serrated first. I don't like serrations at all, they just get in the way. The one exception might be for rescue crews with a short, sheep's hoof or round-nosed knife blade for cutting people out of entangled restraints or out of clothing to provide medical attention.
6.) What blade size do you like(excluding handle).
*e) 10.5+ - Though "it depends." There are conditions for both larger and smaller blades. For general use (able to chop, slash, etc.) I would prefer a larger blade. For more delicate operations, such as making repairs, food preparation and so on, 5" or so is probably adequate. I know how to work around a large blade and could skin a mouse with a 12" blade if I had to.
7.) Do you reguarly use your knife as a pry bar?
b.) No - though I reserve the right to do so in an emergency, particularly with blades I know that could survive the ordeal. Improvised crowbars include most of the longer very thick bladed blade styles, a sturdy Bowie or Khukuri in particular come to mind.
8.) What blade shape or styles do you prefer.
*g.) It depends - the shape of the blade dictates what functions it is best suited to. My choppers chop well and are disproportionately represented in the form of either an axe or a Khukuri, my finer pointed drop and spear point knives do exceedingly well at boring holes and slitting, while my Ulu's are unbeaten in chopping fine leafy herbs and vegetables.
9.) What are some knifes that you currentl own (make/model).
That would be a long list. I have military examples from most South and Central American countries, agrarian blades from Southern and Central Africa, South Asia and South East Asia, South America and the South West, a few production knives, most of them "junk" given by relatives who wouldn't know a quality knife from the real thing. I also have several custom knives and antiques I've collected from all over the world. 2/3rds of my collection are in cases and never leave their silica protected prison. I actively "use" perhaps fewer than a dozen of the total in any given month, not counting kitchen knives. Those that get used get used hard and the average working life is maybe 10 years before replacement. I've ruined more hard use knives than I'd care to count.
10.) Breiefly describe what features you like from the knifes you currently own, or what features you would like to see in your future knives.
I'm not sure I understand what constitutes a "feature" but I'll throw a few out there:
1) For hard, everyday and general use, uncomplicated with the fewest number of parts to break, bend or fall off. If it has screws, nuts, joints, pivots or other fixtures or fasteners, I will look for models with the smallest number of all of these. Integrated blade/guard/bolster designs are particularly interesting to me, though by no means a fixation as there are excellent knives with traditional construction and far more individual parts.
2) Full tang construction whenever it makes sense, not always necessary. I like to limit the number of rivets or screws and insist on having epoxy on a well roughened surface for the handle scales or the slotted grip that is channeled for the blade and well roughened to ensure the epoxy binds as well to the blade as to the handle materials.
3) A well heat treated blade that tends towards the springy end of the scale and is tough rather than hard or brittle. I like a blade that demonstrates an ability to spring back, or upon exceeding the capacity of the steel to spring back will bend rather than break.
4) Long blades with a choil or a surface that can be used as a choil to choke up on the blade for more delicate work.
5) A spine that supplies an edge upon which to easily strike with a flink or ferrocerium rod to start a fire. A finish which is smooth but otherwise unpolished, a deep enough belly to efficiently slice.
6) A lanyard hole in the butt end of the haft, so that you can not only keep a grip on a swinging blade, but so that you can also support the knife in a along the forearm, pinching the blade between the fingers near the point while the blade and haft extend along the inner forearm. A great boon to making large knives work in some basic small knife roles.
7) A reasonably sharp point, I've found too many occasions where the only knife on hand had no point at all to pierce something that needed piercing and forcing some very inventive ways around it, which took more time and energy than being able to just pierce the thing and be done with it.
8) For thick blades, a convex edge, well worth the trouble to maintain, less apt to roll over, ding or chip. 22-25 degree angle.
9) For thinner blades, a single bevel (Scandinavian grind), for a fine, low resistance cutting edge at a 15-18 degree angle.
10) A haft that is large enough to fill my hand well, have enough surface and texture to allow a very secure grip and can absorb shock from a less than perfect hack/chop on a hard material like hard woods, etc. If it's slippery, if it's waxy, it doesn't belong on my hard use knives.
11) For choppers, having enough mass to drive the blade through materials like dry wood rounds.
12) Ease of sharpening for all hard use knives
Demographic Questions (completely optional)
1.) What is your closest age group?
e.) 40+
2.) What is your occupation?
d.) Private Citizen
3.) Do friends or family members often refer to you as an a**hole?

a. No, never.... to my face.