Favorite Stainless Steel for Rough Use? Opinions on Lam. CoS versus 3V?

Dangerously said:
I’m not sure what everyone else calls microchips, but I got tiny imperfections on the factory edge when cutting hardwood on my Fallkniven Kolt, which is also CoS. One session on a 2000 grit waterstone took care of it, and it hasn’t happened since.

I didn’t get this issue on my F1 CoS.

But if it does happen, it’s likely just the factory grind. Take some metal off with a stone and you’ll likely have no more trouble.
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This is interesting. I had exactly the same issue with my Fallkniven Kolt. After using it with the factory edge I was quite underwhelmed with its performance but my good old Chosera stones helped to improve the performance substantially.
 
The Mastiff said:
I'd guess that it was some stuff that got in the grooves in the steel. The ones that you can't feel or see without magnification but are very much there. Try a metal polish before you think the worst and then lose confidence in what is an excellent knife/steel combination that should last a lifetime with proper care and use. It it is indeed a sap it might be stubborn even with a metal polish and need a couple polishes. After cleaning the blade off wash off the knife with soap and water ( or a good solvent as the polish might itself eventually cause an issue if not removed) , dry, then paste wax the thing. Then, stop worrying and use it as intended. I don't have that knife but I do have a couple other knives in "Cobalt special". It's a good steel and the chances of it being a defective heat treat or bad batch is so remote that it's almost unheard of. Good luck.

Joe
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Yeah, I think you're right. I actually emailed Fallkniven just to see what they would say, and Eric Hjorberger said basically the same thing (only in broken English). He said it was probably tree "recine" and recommend toothpaste and a cloth, then if that didn't work, metal polish.

Really, rust wouldn't make sense. I noticed the discoloration so shortly after using it, the steel would have had to rust very quickly, quicker than I've ever had carbon steel rust. So I probably way over reacted...just in the context of the rust horror story from earlier I got a little scared.

I will say that so far I am very impressed with CoS. It holds the edge well, and 30 seconds of stropping brings it right back to hair popping sharp. I'm super impressed with the F1 as a whole, and Fallkniven response to my email was remarkably prompt and detailed.

Thanks for the input guys
 
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Sandvik 12c27. It is amazingly tough at hardness level of 58 HRC. And in serious bushcraft operations it can be sharpened by stones found in nature.
 
My vote is CPM 3V. With low temper protocol. I use PETERS for my heat treat.
Just take care of the blade with EDCi or some other solution to prevent rust, clean it after you use it and bam. No rust.

I dont have any experience with COS. I dont buy fixed blades as I'm a maker. But 3V has yet to fail me. Even during extreme use. Can take a thin edge and be tough enough to hold it. Within reason if course. But I have pushed it at 61HRC with low temper and it really helps edge stability and corrosion resistance. Really impressive.
 
ShannonSteelLabs said:
My vote is CPM 3V. With low temper protocol. I use PETERS for my heat treat.
Just take care of the blade with EDCi or some other solution to prevent rust, clean it after you use it and bam. No rust.

I dont have any experience with COS. I dont buy fixed blades as I'm a maker. But 3V has yet to fail me. Even during extreme use. Can take a thin edge and be tough enough to hold it. Within reason if course. But I have pushed it at 61HRC with low temper and it really helps edge stability and corrosion resistance. Really impressive.
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Not to derail, but where do you see vanax in this and what is cost difference if you made the exact same knife in vanax and 3v?
 
Deinos said:
Not to derail, but where do you see vanax in this and what is cost difference if you made the exact same knife in vanax and 3v?
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Cost difference is at least double. For material. Possibly more depending on stock thickness.

But Vanax is basically stain proof from what I've seen tested. Its edge holding is better that 3V, so far seems just about as tough, and has excellent edge stability. I have run VANAX at 60.5HRC with very impressive results.

EDIT.
0.164 Zwear (my supplier is out of 3V but similar in price)
1.5
23.5
$46.0]

0.174 VANX
1.5
23.5
$122.00

So Vanax is more than double the cost nearly triple.
 
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ShannonSteelLabs said:
Cost difference is at least double. For material. Possibly more depending on stock thickness.

But Vanax is basically stain proof from what I've seen tested. Its edge holding is better that 3V, so far seems just about as tough, and has excellent edge stability. I have run VANAX at 60.5HRC with very impressive results.
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Trying to talk myself into it, but end up balking at cost. Been happy with 3v. Maybe sometime ;)
 
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