Favorite under removable scales rust protectant

[ferider]

Do you warm up the metal, let it sit on there for a few minutes then wipe off the excess? Never had problems with mine getting sticky.

I wipe off the excess. What I mean with sticky: I used to use it on folder blades but after several months of storage, Frog-lube doesn't stick to your fingers, but is quite hard to clean off.

 

[ATJ999]

Awesome, thanks guys. I am actually gonna try the suggestions I haven't tried on a few blades and see which I like. I got some clear enamel spray paint to try. Already got frog lube, gonna try that on one. Never tried vaseline, but gonna give that a shot. Keep them coming! Thanks again for all the suggestions!

 

[Cementite]

Is there a specific reason why you use WD-40 instead of mineral oil?

I suspect the reason some people prefer WD-40 is because of its lower viscosity. It'll get into cracks and crevices better than uncut mineral oil.

You can lower the viscosity of mineral oil by cutting it with mineral spirits or kerosene. After the solvent flashes off, you'll still have mineral oil where you want it.

In my experience, WD-40 is no good for long-term rust protection because whatever oil is in it (in addition to solvent) eventually evaporates, leaving not much if anything behind. Guns will eventually rust if you trust nothing more than WD-40 to protect them.

 

[madcap_magician]

I am using Ren Wax.

 

[Meridian]

I just put some obenaufs under the scales or mineral oil. So far so good.

 

[Sibyrnes]

While WD 40 is probably too thin to put on tangs under scales, it won't cause any damage. I use it every day in my cutlery shop-making knives and restoring extremely valuable knives. It puzzles me why people keep on making ridiculous remarks about WD 40. It's one of the most innocuous and useful lubricants. I guess they want to appear to have some knowledge the rest of us don't.
FYI- the main ingredient in WD 40 is mineral oil!

I agree with your assessment of WD 40, but saying its main ingredient is mineral oil in not quite accurate. This from Wiki:

WD-40's main ingredients as supplied in aerosol cans, according to the US Material Safety Data Sheetinformation,[19] and with the CAS numbers interpreted:[20]

• 45–50% low vapor pressure aliphatic hydrocarbon (isoparaffin)
• <35% petroleum base oil (non-hazardous heavy paraffins)
• <25% aliphatic hydrocarbons (same CAS number as the first item, but flammable)
• 2–3% carbon dioxide (propellant)

Of course, mineral oil is also made from petroleum. The crude oil is processed to remove impurities and that is why it is considered "food safe". The term "mineral oil" is confusing and I think mis leading.

 

[Bill DeShivs]

Interesting. "Petroleum base oil." That's mineral oil.
I have a very extensive knife collection, and a very extensive gun collection. All of them are wiped with WD 40. They aren't handled much, but they don't rust.
The reason I use WD 40 in my shop is: it's thin and easy to apply; it works as both a protectant and a LIGHT lubricant; it displaces moisture-even in inaccessible areas; it makes buffing wheels cut better and smoother; it's a great solvent; and it's inexpensive

 

[Sibyrnes]

Interesting. "Petroleum base oil." That's mineral oil.
I have a very extensive knife collection, and a very extensive gun collection. All of them are wiped with WD 40. They aren't handled much, but they don't rust.
The reason I use WD 40 in my shop is: it's thin and easy to apply; it works as both a protectant and a LIGHT lubricant; it displaces moisture-even in inaccessible areas; it makes buffing wheels cut better and smoother; it's a great solvent; and it's inexpensive

Yeah, interesting - and confusing! I think the the term "mineral oil" is just something created by marketing people.
But I basically agree with you. I buy WD 40 in gallon cans and use it in on any metal exposed to the elements. On my motorcycles I have the rule "WD 40 for anything made of metal and Armor All for the plastic and rubber."

 

[Sibyrnes]

While we're on the subject of mineral oil, it was originally made for medicinal use. This bottle of "intestinal lubricant" sat in my parent's basement for I don't know how long and it has sat in mine for 20 years!

 

[Oldnretired]

I go with the Renissance wax. It stays put pretty well and doesn't gunk things up or seep out and stain clothes etc.

 

[Grasshopperglock]

Speaking of rust prevention. I have to re-wax some traps.

Once the wax melts. The traps are slowly pulled out the bath. Leaving them coated in wax. It also prevents the traps from stinking. As long as you don't touch them bare handed to leave a scent.

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

I've been working on a paste wax formulation that would be especially well-suited to this. It's a blend of microcrystalline paraffin and polyethylene waxes that's hard yet flexible, with good adhesion properties, and dry to the touch rather than tacky.