Ferric Chloride-n-Damascus...

So is the PCB etchant I got from Radio Shack good to go, or a no-no?
Also, where do I get TSP? Is there another more common term for it, where it is sold?

Thanks for all the info fellas. I always sucked at chemistry...
 
PCB Etchant is fine for most steels with some exceptions like stainless "Damasteel" and 440C. If you dilute it, make sure to use distilled water. TSP you can get in the paint section of places like Lowes. Read back of box for precautions, of course.
 
Jackdaddy, I can't explain the science behind it like fitzo but it will (to say it simple) stain the bolsters. Paint them with some type of resist. Nail polish works well, some use a sharpie marker.

Good links fitzo :thumbup: & Laredo7mm ;) :thumbup:
 
Welcome to Shoptalk, jackdaddy! Nice to see people reading the archived information here!

A problem you will encounter etching brass is that it will poison your ferric chloride with copper. The next time you put steel in, the copper will plate on the steel. Some even use it for an artistic effect.

David's right...coat them with nail polish.
 
I use 3 parts distilled water to 1 part ferric and neutralize by spraying down with windex with ammonia and then wash with soap and water. Dry then lightly hit with 1000 grit sandpaper wrapped around a flat surface then coat with Renaissance wax for a final finish. Mike
 
Try mixing your FeCL 50-50 with vinegar instead of water.

This works very well. A particularly pronounced improvement is seen when etching Damasteel or stuff like Eggerling Damascus. --- Noticeably better.
 
Windex works great, actually I buy the economy version, soak rinse and rinse with clean water oil and good to go!
 
I use a mixture of 1 part ferric Cloride, 1 part white vinigar and 1 part distilled water. I mostly use it on 1095 /15n20. I have tried pure ferric but it eats both steels rapidly and you get very little texture. I also use it on 1095/nickel. It turns carbon alloy grey and if you have a harmon it will be darker than the rest. 5160 gets pretty dark. The nickel or nickel alloy stays fairly silver. I have used ferric cloride that was used on copper and it will coat the blade but actually only bonds to the nickel alloy and cand be buffed off. .
 
I use 1 part ferric chloride to 3 parts distilled water and etch for ten minutes. I then just scrub the part with a tooth brush and water. I then buff the blade with a a buff having two or three rows of loose stitching using green chrome . This will clean away the oxide formed on the Damascus. After serious clean up with an automotive parts and tool cleaner I can then go to heating for coloring. The ferric chloride mix can be used many times. done in this manner I find there is no need to neutralize after etching. Frank
 
argel55 said:
I use 3 parts distilled water to 1 part ferric and neutralize by spraying down with windex with ammonia and then wash with soap and water. Dry then lightly hit with 1000 grit sandpaper wrapped around a flat surface then coat with Renaissance wax for a final finish. Mike
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Brave man, using windex around ferric. A few drops and your ferric solution is shot to hell lol
 
Welcome O'Neal. This is a 15-year-old thread. Please look at the dates of the last few posts as well as the original post before posting a comment.

FWIW, Windex, TSP, and ammonia are the standard etch stop chemicals for FC. You don't use them in the tank, but in a sink where you bare washing and scrubbing the damascus blade off.
 
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