I was thinking of making some Ferro rods to go with my knives...but there are so many sizes! I was hoping that someone who is familiar with making them could offer some advice on sizes to use. Also, are there issues with drilling holes in rod or does it just drill like anything else? Thanks!
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Ferro Rod Question
- Thread starter Nic.
- Start date
J. Doyle
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2008
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3/8" diameter by 3" long is by FAR the most common. And probably for good reasons. They're cost effective at that size and user friendly.
1/4" diameter are ok but more difficult to get good consistent sparks. Anything under 1/4" in diameter becomes pretty brittle and must be used with care.
1/2" is pretty cool and throws lots of good sparks but you have to start considering if the increased cost and weight is worth it over the 3/8" diameter.
1/4" diameter are ok but more difficult to get good consistent sparks. Anything under 1/4" in diameter becomes pretty brittle and must be used with care.
1/2" is pretty cool and throws lots of good sparks but you have to start considering if the increased cost and weight is worth it over the 3/8" diameter.
NJBillK
Custom Leather and Fixed Blade modifications.
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Very slow.
Go slow and keep a bucket under the area being drilled to catch the material being removed, and a good clean up when done. You won't want to see the stuff on the shop floor catch from an errant spark while grinding your next blade.
Get a scrap piece of wood 1"×1"×4" and using a drill, notch out a 3/8" wide divot, half the height of the ferro rod laying on its side. Anchor the board in your vise with a few inches hanging out, Zip tie the ferro rod down to the board and hang the bucket handle off of the board.
This will offer support to the rod, hold the bucket close, and allow for a stable work surface.
Go slow and keep a bucket under the area being drilled to catch the material being removed, and a good clean up when done. You won't want to see the stuff on the shop floor catch from an errant spark while grinding your next blade.
Get a scrap piece of wood 1"×1"×4" and using a drill, notch out a 3/8" wide divot, half the height of the ferro rod laying on its side. Anchor the board in your vise with a few inches hanging out, Zip tie the ferro rod down to the board and hang the bucket handle off of the board.
This will offer support to the rod, hold the bucket close, and allow for a stable work surface.
Last edited:
J. Doyle
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2008
- Messages
- 8,445
A lot of folks drill a 3/8" hole in a scrap chunk of wood and epoxy a wood handle onto them.
For maximum compactness, drilling a hole in one end and running a cord through is a good way to go. The chips from drilling most likely will flare up on you.
I've drilled holes in many of them, and I just cleared everything around my drill press out of the way, went as slow as I could and let 'er burn.
The piles of shavings burn hot but it doesn't last too long and it fizzles out. I kept a close eye on it.
I know some will say to vacuum the shavings away as you go but my way of thinking is to let them burn supervised and controlled and then be harmless rather then have them sit volatile and forgotten, waiting somewhere for that stray spark.
For maximum compactness, drilling a hole in one end and running a cord through is a good way to go. The chips from drilling most likely will flare up on you.
I've drilled holes in many of them, and I just cleared everything around my drill press out of the way, went as slow as I could and let 'er burn.
The piles of shavings burn hot but it doesn't last too long and it fizzles out. I kept a close eye on it.I know some will say to vacuum the shavings away as you go but my way of thinking is to let them burn supervised and controlled and then be harmless rather then have them sit volatile and forgotten, waiting somewhere for that stray spark.