Ferrocerium rods, metal match, artificial flint, or sparker - carry methods

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Jan 20, 1999
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FERROCERIUM ROD (ARTIFICIAL FLINT) CARRY OR STORAGE TIPS


A recent question in the Hoodlum forum on methods to carry a small ferrocerium rod prompted me to post something similar to the following. The question was posed at: http://pub1.ezboard.com/fhoodlumsquestionsandanswers.showMessage?topicID=1082.topic in a thread called: ?Attaching sparking rod to SAK.?


I wanted a convenient way to carry a 2 inch by 1/8 inch ferrocerium rod. This is referred to by Ron Hood as the Woodsmaster Mini Kit Sparker, (of http://www.survival.com/index.htm) or by Greg Davenport at http://secure.sawshop.net/ssurvival/products/index.htm as a metal match. Most of us always carry keys and like Doug Ritter of www.equipped.com, I wanted to attach it to my key ring, but this one is not made the same way, so a new method had to be found. Since I completed my simple solution, I have seen some references to other methods, which I partially list in this post.


This is how I did it:


I cut off the rear end of a PaperMate stick pen, which are now one piece and hollow to the end. The piece of pen barrel has to be long enough to hold the ferrocerium rod plus some additional room. I then drilled a small hole perpendicular to the pen barrel, at the open end. This allowed me to attach it to my key chain. I used a Twisty key ring, which being plastic coated aluminum aircraft cable, should not cause a spark and effectively shuts off the open end, keeping the flint inside.


I suppose you could use some type of wooden spacer, such as the rear end of a wooden match (with the head cut off) or a piece of cotton, to keep it from hitting a metal key ring. These would also serve to provide a small amount of tinder, but might make removal of the metal match difficult. Further, over time the cotton just compresses, and in my case, just formed a little ring around the rod.


The small rod and holder together weigh less than .2 ounces, at least 1 large & 2 small paperclips less.
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The small rod registers as .1 ounce on a digital postal scale. The holder by itself did not register on a digital postal scale. The Boy Scout Hot Spark model weighs about .2 ounces, note the available rod is shorter but thicker, 3/16". Other weights for comparison, a 4" x ½" rod is 2.9 ounces, 6" x ½" x ½? 4.3 ounces, as supplied by Mike Mlodzik; 4" x 3/8" inches 1.6 ounces, 1.7 with the striker, as supplied by Greg Davenport.


A more elaborate method, by Howard Wallace, involving affixing the rod to a key, is shown here http://www.bladeforums.com/ubb/Forum18/HTML/000448.html . I weighed one of my keys and it registered at .2 ounces. Others have devised ways to insert it into their corkscrew on a SAK (Swiss Army Knife). Shrink tubing has been used to cover the rod. The leather belt sheath that comes with the GATCO diamond sharpener with the brass handle works great to carry a 4 inch rod. The sheath weighs .8 ounces.


With respect to the SAK, it would be nice to surround the glasses screwdriver with ferrocerium, leaving the screwdriver blade protruding enough for use. If one of the SAK companies was going to actually going to manufacture a ferrocerium insert, I do not see why this could not be done. Of course I do not understand why the Leatherman Wave does not have an awl!
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The steel shaft would also support the ferrocerium. So, what BladeForum member or Hoodlum has an "in" with SAK....and barring that, who has a very accurate drill press? If someone tries this, Mike Mlodzik says soapy water keeps down the sparks...But clean up all that sawdust first!!!


For the curious, borrowing from a previous post of mine in a fire starting thread, the composition of artificial flint can be found at http://www.equipped.org/devices28.htm#Sparks
According to that page, these are the constituents: a mixture of metals and rare earth elements, by weight approximately 20% Iron (Fe) with trace amounts, less than 3% each, of Zinc (Zn) and Magnesium (Mg) and the remainder a combination of rare earth elements, 50% of which is Cerium (Ce), the remainder primarily Lanthanum (LLa) and Neodymium (Nd) and trace amounts of some other rare earth elements. An interesting fact mentioned there is that apparently any sharp edged scraper will work, even a glass fragment. (I use my Leatherman Wave file, if not using the Blast Match one-handed method with built in tungsten carbide striker/scraper or the scraper supplied with Greg?s 4" x 3/8" metal match.) This differs from natural flint which requires iron or steel...as also described there. A search for ferrocerium here in the Wilderness & Survival Forum will bring up several threads on the subject, including the ? Easiest and most reliable fire source? thread at http://www.bladeforums.com/ubb/Forum18/HTML/000004.html , where I had mentioned the constituent elements of artificial flint.


Does anyone know if these elements vary much from manufacturer to manufacturer?


I routinely carry the small ferrocerium rod in the pen barrel. It is not just for backwoods use. I was kindly taken to a Dolphin?s game by Les (in case he reads this
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) where we, accompanied by our children--OK only one of mine--were having a tailgating party before the game. Matches did not work as well to start the small prepackaged, disposable grill as did the ferrocerium rod and tinder- a cotton ball with Vaseline on the outside. Besides, I wanted an excuse to use my rod.
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Most reading this would know, but just dip some cotton balls in Vaseline, and stuff in a film can. To use just pull the cotton ball apart some to provide a fluffy surface for the spark. This was one of the better tips I read. Read some other posts to get an extensive review of natural tinder and the posts or book of Greg Davenport in what qualities make a good tinder. You can watch Ron Hood start a fire using a ferrocerium rod and tinder in his Volume 1 - Spark Based Firestarting, of his Woodsmaster series.


I have posted a picture of the Boy Scout Hot Spark here: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=91257&a=665876&p=33202557


A picture of it sans packaging and scraper are posted here: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=91257&a=665876&p=33202559

along with a Twisty key ring, a pen barrel holder for the rod, and a basic small ferrocerium rod as previously discussed.


My knives, if you are interested are in my knives album which you should be able to navigate to, but if not, the link is: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=91257&a=817804

[This message has been edited by Donald (edited 11-16-2000).]
 
Donald, thanks for the long post focusing on metal match carry options with all the details.
I would have few things to add:
-I would keep the rod separate from the knife so that I could use the very same knife to scrape the rod (no gluing to the scale or similar method). Keyring sounds good possibly with both folder and rod attached. You have listed couple of possibilities for this. Jeff Randall's solution to add rod to knife sheath is good too (attached with a lanyard). I keep one rod in sheath pouch another one on a long lanyard together with whistle, DMT folding mini sharpener, a mini Maglite, button compass, folding knife.
-I agree that Vaseline'd cotton balls are good. They work even when wet (just squeeze out excess water and fluff it up).
-I could not use the last three photopoint links. Maybe its me...?

HM
 
HM,

I edited the links. They should work for you now. I had posted them in Hoodlums and then copied them. Apparently I did not get them fully copied. Thanks for pointing that out. You are welcome for the post.
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For some reason the default for posting a new message leaves the box unchecked to email the thread creator when a response is posted. I must have forgotten to check it, or I might have made the correction a few minutes earlier. If anyone knows anything that can be done to change the default setting I would be happy to hear about it.

 
Most know this, but ferrocerium can break down after long-term exposure to moisture. So keep your ferro dry, or coat liberally with nail polish.

Mike
 
Mike (Bennett),

Sometimes it does pay to state the obvious. I had not read this before, although I had assumed from the appearance of one rod that it could rust a bit because of the iron.

How about more details? Does it rust like tool steel, or does it get mushy and dissolve like charcoal briquets.?** How much moisture or immersion is required and how serious is the problem? For instance, if you have one in a lifeboat kit, is it going to be usable if it is not protected?

Following, my own, "best to state the obvious rule," it should be pointed out that a ferrocerium rod can break. See posts or website by Jimbo for more details. Here is his website: http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Rapids/5404/survival/
I had mentioned his results before, in one of the Hoodlum posts, but if I tried to put it here it perhaps it got lost when my browser crashed, as I do not see it listed in my above original post. Jimbo in testing a magnesium bar/metal match combo, and other ferrocerium rods, demonstrates how assumptions can be risky. The magnesium bar is firmly attached, assuming whatever is through the hole is strong enough, but the more important part, the ferrocerium rod, can seperate from the magnesium block when dropped. He has a post on page 2 of this 3 page thread http://www.bladeforums.com/ubb/Forum18/HTML/000004.html
and his web site address given above.

**P.S. I much prefer regular charcoal. Lighter, better flavor, and if it gets wet it is still usable after it dries. Unfortunately, I do not see it much anymore. ¿¿¿
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??? I have seen some which is apparently made from scrap wood, which is OK, but if it did not say hardwood on the package, I would not have guessed!
 
Mike (Bennett),
I still have the same questions to some extent, because I would like to know to what degree care is required based on other's personal experiences, but I see that Done Right Mfg. states the following re care:
"However; while it is waterproof (meaning it won't absorb water and if it gets wet you can just wipe it off and use it) if it is left in a damp environment the flint will corrode and crumble over time, so treat it as you would a gun or knife, if it gets wet, don't worry about it, but do wipe it off before putting it away, and put it away dry when you can." http://www.gotfire.com/firestarters599.html

I note that the "Big Flint" looks like the one also sold by Greg Davenport.

Who knows how many actual manufacturers there are of ferrocerium rods?
 
Donald,

I've used the same ferro/magnesium block firestarter in my outdoors kit for about 5 years. As with all of the contents of my survival bag, I check it frequently. My maintenance includes the same care mentioned in your post.

Mike
 
I've had two metal matches corrode. One, which was sealed in a container for over a dozen years, turned into gray powder. The other, which had been used a little, but kept dry, had a small area that corroded. A third, just as old, which had been used, kept dry, but not coated, is intact.
?????
 
I have a small antler handled rod that I carry all the time (ALL the time). Most of the time,there is a 1/2 inch rod in another pocket and/or bag with me.

I've never had any problems ... but I live in Idaho (didn't have any problems in California either).

Maybe it's oily skin ... or the fire gods like me.


Mike



------------------
Mike's Emergency Preparedness Forum


No matter what you do, some things won't work out.
No matter what you do, some things will work out.
Worry about those things that you can make a difference with.
 
I've been reading thru the archives and found this thread, complete with a link to a ferrocerium manufacturer in Austria. I notice that they can supply ferro rod in the following dimensions:

(begin quote)
Sizes
Diameters: 1.9 - 20 mm
Lengths: 3 - 1000 mm
Other lengths and diameters on request.
(end quote)

20 mm = a little over 3/4 inch
1000 mm = 1 meter = a little over 3 feet

3/4 inch diameter and 3 ft long- talk about a heavy duty firestarter! Seriously, I'm curious about what such a massive hunk of ferro rod would be used for. They must have a buyer, or they wouldn't make it.

On TV I've seen space shuttle launches with closeups of the engines igniting, and you can see massive sparks flying horizontally below the engine nozzles, along with the rocket exhaust which of course is vertically downwards. The horizontal sparks appear to be the igniter for the rocket motors.

I've often wondered if they used a massive ferro rod that is grinding against a motorized steel wheel of some sort- kind of like the world's larget Zippo. Anybody out there know anyone at NASA you could ask about this? It's probably only some type of pyrotechnic device, however, which would be a letdown.

 
For those of you who have occasion to wear somewhat more elegant dress shirts, look for those that have a little sleeve at the end of, and underneath, each collar end. These sleeves, about 1" in length, usually carry a piece of plastic meant to keep the collar straight, and would be perfect for a small ferrocium rod on one side, and a small blade (lapel knife style) on the other
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I need to post a follow-up to my original post. After about a year, the little ferrocerium rod, managed to batter off the end of the tube. :eek: I retrieved the rod with no problem but for the moment a Hot Spark is on my key chain. Thus, if you try this method of carrying the rod in the tube you should reinforce the tube, get a stronger one, immobilize the rod, or some combination of the above.

If you happen to have a piece of appropriately sized shrink tubing, you could put a little on each end with some sticking out to act as a cushion. Leave more on the end you plan on holding. If used, you would still have a piece on one end. I don’t have the right size, so I may be trying something else. Rubber bands degrade and leave a mess. Perhaps a small sliver of bicycle tubing would last better–a partial one has been hanging in my garage for some time. If you managed to get it back out, it could add a little additional burn time to your tinder–if you don’t mind the obnoxious smoke.
 
I'm not sure about the Hot Spark, but the little ferro rods avialable from Hood's Woods fit very nicely inside the outer sheath of a piece of parachute cord. I just attach a piece of cord to whatever I like, tuck in a ferro rod, tie a little knot to keep it there and I'm good to go. I carry a rod attached in this way to my neck sheath for my SAK Rucksack. using an approximately 6 inch piece of paracord, I tie a knot in one end, tuck it through one of the brass eyelets in the concealex sheath, slide a ferro rod into the center of the paracord, then tuck the free end through another eyelet and tie another small knot. No swinging or rattling and still very easy to retrieve...
 
Good idea. One could probably seal one end by melting. I saw someone stating that they stuck the little lighter flints in the end of their shoe laces and fused them there.
 
I wanted a convenient way to carry a 2 inch by 1/8 inch ferrocerium rod.


I carry mine in the billfold of my wallet. I carry the striker (piece of hack saw balde) in one of the credit card pockets. Seems to work pretty good.

S.
 
Ferrocerium rod holder, take two!

My pen barrel holder, as noted above, finally gave up some time ago, with the ferrocerium rod acting like a mini battering ram, and breaking off the end of the barrel. Thus, I wanted another holder, although a Boy Scout hot spark is doing fine on my key chain at the moment.

Last month, in February 2002, I cut off a piece of fatwood, and drilled a hole part way along the length. I used one bit size larger than 1/8", i.e. 9/64", because I didn't want the rod to possibly get stuck. I then drilled a similar hole through the end for a Twisty key ring (coated aircraft cable). This acts to attach the fatwood and holds the rod in place. I drilled a few extra holes, slightly off center to serve as a visual check, and provide a weak point if I the rod ever got stuck and I needed to split the wood to get it out. Since they are off-center, I should be able to do this without breaking the rod, yet I can still see the edge of the rod. Of course if one shakes it in the direction of its length, you can hear it. With a little care in measurement, one could make it smaller, if that was desired. It does fit in an Altoids tin, the way it is. I might actually use it as a key fob for a car key and a photon light or too, if I was going to be out hiking, or otherwise traveling, and did not want to carry my usual complement of keys. I don't know if airline security would object to this odd, but harmless object.

I sanded it some, but found a sharp knife, in this case a Boye folder with dendritic cobalt blade, actually was more effective in smoothing the sides. On second thought, I might have used rennasance wax, but I put a little White Lightning lubricant on the outside to keep it from being tacky. I used some mineral spirits to clean the resin residue off my hacksaw blade and drill bits. I said bits, because I used a 1/8" bit first and then decided to go up one size, even though the rod fit fine.

I have pictures, but no way to post them at the moment. I was pleased with my project and knowing Bagheera’s affinity for Mayawood, or in other words fatwood, I emailed him most of the above details. Here is where the science fiction comes in :D Here is his response which I imagine he won’t mind if I post.

“YOU ABSOLUTELY will not believe it but I made an almost EXACT chunk of maya-wood that holds the Scout steel from Light-my-fire Sweden this weekend (Saturday) I cut of the Scout steels large plastic thumbstud and drilled a somewhat larger then 1/4" hole in a suitable piece of Maya-wood. The Scout steel has an 1/4" diameter so I used a little bigger drill (6.5 mm metric
size) and also on the upper part of the Mayawood just "above" the flintsteel that slides in the maya-wood, another hole.”

Great minds think alike! ;) :p

Part III :)

This past weekend, March 2002, I had a few spare moments–the wife had gone shopping :D –yes I can say this with a smile, she is a very reasonable shopper. I decided to see how fatwood started with a ferrocerium rod, without any additional tinder. I took my Busse Zero Tolerance Steel Heart and shaved some curls along the edge of a piece of fatwood leaving them attached. I then threw on some pieces of curls left from the above mentioned drilling operation.

I took out my Swedish Firesteel which was nestled in my BK7 Pouch, the sheath temporarily holding my ZT Steel Heart :D That BK7 by Camillus does yeoman duty even when I am not actually even using it, very useful sheath. I unfastened the lanyard loop and just tied a knot in each end to give more length between the Firesteel and the supplied scraper. The result was pretty anemic and I did not get fire. It was a new Firesteel, but I gave it a few scrapes to get the coating off the portion I was using. This scraper certainly did not work. Perhaps some are harder or I have used the other Firesteel more. I even went and squared off the edge with a diamond hone. The sparks were still dissapointing. I just read another thread where Nathan also found his supplied scraper less than adequate. That thread is here:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1593106#post1593106

I then got out my BlastMatch. I opened it, rested the end on the side of the fatwood, next to the side with the curls and bits, held the scraper down, and thrust. I got lots of sparks and I think about 3 strokes later got fire!! So I wasn’t quite as exited as Tom Hanks in Cast Away, I was still pleased! :) Now that I knew that I could also use fatwood as the only source of tinder to catch a spark from a ferrocerium rod, back to the Firesteel.

I cut some new curls along one side of the fatwood. I pulled out my Leatherman Wave and opened the file. Using the smooth side of the file, I scraped along the Firesteel. Much better, lots of sparks. Of course this, generally speaking, takes two hands, as opposed to only one needed with the BlastMatch, but I was getting a good supply of sparks. A couple of strokes later, I had fire again! I tried moving the file and just pulling the Firesteel. Both worked, I do not recall which way lit the fire or exactly how many strokes it took, but it was not too many.

I have actually used this file before with other ferrocerium rods, including the 2" x 1/8" mini-sparker and had good success. I don’t note any excessive wear, just some discoloration from the ferrocerium rod sparking residue. I guess my next efforts should be to try the mini-sparker on the fatwood, and then to try some fatwood that has been dunked in water first. Since it works alone just like others reported, it should still light, as reported after being dunked, because of the high resin content, which is why it makes a good holder–you always have tinder!!!! Still, better to try for myself, and make sure I can use it after it has been exposed to water. Note, I don’t say wet, because I suspect the resin keeps the water out, which is why it works.

:cool:
 
This past weekend, I did some more practicing in the backyard, actually on the patio, and on top of a piece of marble.

I used the Zero Tolerance Busse Battle Mistress to carve curls on the edge of a piece of fatwood. That convex edge worked great.

These fuzz sticks were then placed on the scrap piece of marble. After a some fire safety discussion, both my 7 year old daughter and I were able to used a BlastMatch (ferrocerium rod) to start fires directly from the wood. :D

I then used the Leatherman Wave file to scrape a much smaller mini sparker from Hoods Woods, i.e. 2" by 1/8" inch ferrocerium rod, to do the same thing. This was much harder. To get enough sparks to do the job, I found I had to use the rough side or edge of the file. This chewed up the ferrocerium rod faster, but it did work. :eek:

Since I had made a holder for one out of fatwood, I wanted to see if it would be enough. I do hope though that if I have to use this small piece I have some cotton or something else that lights instantly with a few sparks!
:cool:
 
number 3, great idea! I am doing it. I keep my ferro rod in my mini-kit which is always with me but I have been thinking of attaching it to sheath. so I always have those 2 together.


thanks
 
I carry a Done Right Mfg. "Sparky II" in the handle of my CRK P-II (along with a 3" diamond rod, wet-fire tinder packs, and a 14mm button compass).
 
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