Ferrocerium rods, metal match, artificial flint, or sparker - carry methods

Warriorsociologist,
Sounds good! Emulating,I see, one of Doug Ritter's choices (www.equipped.org) with the Sparky.

I looked at http://gotfire.com/firestarters599.html .

So what does the II signify. Is that on the packaging, or does it indicated something different than the regular Sparky model listed on the Done Right / Got Fire / Strike Master page. I gather the last name is the result of the new owner/management.

If I ever order something from someone that carries it, I'll probably get one just because I have seen it so much on www.equipped.org. I could order it directly, but I really have almost :eek: enough ferrocerium now. :cool:

I believe I actually saw the enviro-match at Jet Outdoors, where I bought/buy my Boy Scout Hot Sparks, but I have not seen it there for a long time. In other words, since the time I might have recognized the company name, they have not had it.

Now if I had or scavenged a large piece of magnesium from a hot water heater, I could add some magnesium to some of my rods, like Done Right's Skeet Light and the smaller Sparky. Let's see, 1/2" x 6" ferrocerium rod and a similar sized piece of magnesium, it will do double duty as a club :p not that I would really risk cracking my rod..... ;)

I think the BlastMatch scrapes off so much material it acts almost like you scraped off some magnesium first. This makes its sparks especially long lived. When my daughters were overworking the BlastMatch, the area where the scraper is mounted actually got hot enough (from the friction) for them to say ouch and for me to let it cool down. I was afraid the heat might be enough to cause the scraper to become detached. Hopefully, the BlastMatch manufacturer took that into account with the type of plastic and the mounting method. http://www.ultimatesurvival.com/cgi...15.html?L+scstore+llxt5040ffe6ffe6+1034908809

Do you have a BlastMatch too? I ask because you use WetFire tinder which is from the same company, Ultimate Survival. I like their comment that it burns even longer when wet...

I have the more plebian Tinder-Quik fire tabs from http://www.fourseasonssurvival.com/
But I have not had them that long, and have not actually tried them yet. Luckily, they apparently have a very long shelf life. The nice thing, although perhaps not as hot, is they do not have to be sealed. I have thought about trying to melt some petroleum jelly (Vaseline) and beeswax, with a a few magnesium flakes thrown in for fun and see what tinder that made of a cotton ball or whatever. So far I have contented myself with just smearing some on a cotton ball, and shoving them into a file can.
 
Originally posted by Donald
Warriorsociologist,
Sounds good! Emulating,I see, one of Doug Ritter's choices (www.equipped.org) with the Sparky.

I looked at http://gotfire.com/firestarters599.html .

So what does the II signify....
Click to expand...


I have posted about Done right mfg. stuff here on the forum for a while...I love their stuff. The Sparky and Military Match Is are the same size (key ring vs. chain) and the Military Match II and the Spike are also the same size (as each other), but bigger than the previous two (go and look at their home page for specs). I have several of each...some as zipper-pulls, some on key rings, and as mentioned, one in my P-II. I have used the mil-type "magnesium firestarter" blocks before, but I think that the Done right ones are better quality. I like the wet-fire tinder, but I have never used the blast match or other similar gadgets. I already found a good, small, easy to carry (important b/c that means it will always be there) way to light fires with the items I have already mentioned.
Finally, my most favorite Dine Right firestarter is the "big Flint". I have this in a small lanyard of 550 cord and it is always in my pocket...the flint is the key....I rarely need the magnesium....

Anyway, good luck choosing one for yourself.

Take care.
 
Warriorsociologist,

Just to show you I am reading,

you state in the post you linked to:
I have a Military Match II in the handle of my Chris Reeve Project II
Click to expand...

which makes more sense than the Sparky which I do not see as having a II, but does have the key ring which makes it ideal for carrying outside the knife, but might make it difficult to fit in the knife.

It doesn't really matter, I was just wondering if I missed a model.

I alternate which ones I carry--decisions, decisions. I usually have a small one or two as backup and then a larger one.

The BlastMatch with a flint rod diameter bigger than any of DoneRight's flints alone, is a little heavy, but still it is only 2.7 oz (76.6g.) I haven't carried that one for a while, but I think I will again. Very convenient to use.
 
OK....I think I see what you mean (I meant the Military Match II in the first place...but I sometimes forget which one is in there :rolleyes: :D ). I also agree that the BlastMatch is a good choice. Maybe when I "use up" all my current sparkers...I'll get one ;) ....whenever that will be :) ...oh yeah, I also have some of the firetabs you mentioned...but they are in my survival tin (tobacco tin kit) with lots of other goodies. I got mine with the spark-lite kit (the OD one your link led to). I also have the sparker for that kit in my tin.
 
I like the one handed Spark-Lite, but have not really tried it out yet. I got it when I got the Tinder-Quik firetabs. It is nice that it will fit where a couple of matches will, but so will a small ferrocerium rod. I would like it better if it came in clear Lexan so that if you were using it, you would have an idea of how much reserve ferrocerium you have. I guess a Spark-Lite for convenience along with a mini-sparker, for extra security, together only weigh 7.4 grams.

{I do recall one user, saying his fell apart, but I am more concerned with using it and then finding I have run out. If mine falls apart, I'll find out if a mini-sparker will fit in there ;) }
 
Donald,

I have each generation of SparkLights and they all work great for me. I've never had a problem with any of them and I rely upon a SparkLight as my primary backup to my ferro rod du jour. (I have several Swedish FireSteels, a couple BSA HotSparks, and some homebrewed antler handled ferro rods I carry and use.) I rely on the ferro rods over the SparkLight for the sheer simplicity and fun of using them. I wish Four Seasons still made the second generation brass models that used replaceable Zippo flints.

Mike
 
I wish Four Seasons still made the second generation brass models that used replaceable Zippo flints.
Click to expand...

Mike,
So do I, they sound awesome! Wish I had one. I bet you could use a little piece of mini-sparker too.

If my Spark-Lite ever runs out of ferrocerium, I'll experiment with it....but meanwhile I don't want to risk breaking it.

There was a thread which mentioned something similar, and I actually saw it for sale on the web, a Coleman lamp striker or lighter. It apparently mounts up in the lamp, so the sparks are coming from the end. I did not see one locally, or I could not have resisted getting one to experiment with. If I understand correctly, you have a knob at one end which turns a striker wheel at the other end and a flint holder is mounted against the wheel. This makes it sort of L shaped.
I found it, Hoodoo posted it in this thread: Techniques for starting fires with Zippo flints? http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...chniques+for+starting+fires+with+Zippo+flints
 
Originally posted by Donald:
... tinder - a cotton ball with Vaseline on the outside.
Click to expand...
Donald, thanks for starting this great thread! Tons of good info here and in the links.

From info I've seen on this forum, apparently soaking cottonballs, hemp, dryer lint, or other combustible for your firestarter/tinder with beeswax is preferable to using Vaseline because beeswax is nowhere near as messy to store & use and it offers longer burn times than Vaseline or paraffin. Cliff Stamp has done some work testing out various burn times in this thread http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=181735

From that thread, Muzzleup offers this tip:
For a simpler formula try just soaking one cotton ball completly in the melted beeswax and then place it in the egg carton and while the wax is still tacky then just set one dry (or vasoline soaked ) cotton ball on top to stick to the first cotton ball.

Instead of using the egg cartons I just wrap each set of cotton balls in waxed paper and twist the whole thing off to look like a big Hersheys chocolete "kiss". These "kisses of fire" can be stored easily in pouches, pockets, film canisters, and even fired shotgun shells and then carried with the crimps tuned back down.
Click to expand...
 
When I was doing the fatwood experiments mentioned above we did try a few cotton balls. The are so easy and fast to light. It also gave Dad some time to carve some more curl's in the fatwood. I have tried to empahsize that although useful, fire can be dangerous, so if you (the kids) want to play with matches or sparkers, etc., come to Dad and we will do it together. Thus, they have no reason to sneak off and take a risk.

RokJok, while typing this I glanced at your post again. You are welcome. I started this post a long time ago, but then felt that I should come back and report that the original holder failed. I think those safety ends on the pen barrel could be reinforced or the motion of the rod could be reduced--say by wedging with a toothpick, but I tried making fatwood holder. Then I had to see how useful such a holder would be in an emergency, etc, etc. :D Perhaps we can make this the longest lived thread on Bladeforums! :eek: Too bad the photopoint links do not work any longer. If I ever get a website started, I'll have to dig up some photos and repost new links.

I have never gone to the trouble some have. I just grab a cotton ball, swipe it in the Vaseline jar and shove it in a film can. I repeat until the can is full.

I mention this, because I guess I packed in a lot. When I went to pull one out, I just got a clump of cotton. I could have gotten more or less, as needed. Just for the practice/fun lighting I did not need much, yet each fragment or fluffy clump still had a decent burn time. Each fragment pulled out fluffed, and ready to light.

For those who melt and saturate their cotton balls, I would be interested in how easy they are to light with a spark. Apparently one advantage is that they are more waterproof.

When you are out in the woods, it is likely your hands will get dry and so the Vaseline will be good for them. {If your hands are clean, good for your lips too.} After I pull out the cotton ball I just rub my hands together or rub the one hand on some exposed skin or something. Mess gone! My cotton balls may not be as saturated as some, but I have never had the film can leak any petrolatum or petroleum jelly. Bottom line, I don't have any trouble with mess.

Now to stash in with other things, you can always get some fire tabs. They are dry and apparently will still work if they get exposed to water. The cost for ten is under $2. This may be too much for everyday, but not bad for emergency use, and they have no mess at all.

I wonder how they get them like that. Apparently, they are a hunk of cotton batting with petrolatum and beeswax, with the exact percentages being secret. I just wonder if you melted up such a combination and didn't oversoak; or perhaps squeezed out the excess; or squeezed some soaked and nonsoaked ones together; whether one could come close. Just to add a little more flare, throw in a few magnesium flakes. ?????

Kudos, to anyone who figures this out and posts the information.!!
:cool:
 
Originally posted by Donald
...the original holder failed. I think those safety ends on the pen barrel could be reinforced or the motion of the rod could be reduced--say by wedging with a toothpick, but I tried making fatwood holder.
Click to expand...
When I read that the ferrocium rod had battered apart the end of your plastic pen tube holder, the first thing that sprang into my mind was, "Yet another application for JB Weld or Duct Tape." (Hey, I'm a guy - that's the way I think. ;))

I figured you could plug up the end of the tube by slathering in some JB Weld (two-part metal epoxy). That epoxy plug would serve as an impact surface that is about as hard as the rod material, hence less damage from the rod that when it impacted the unprotected plastic. If it can be used to repair cracked auto engine heads, it should easily stand getting hit by a little ferrocium rod. SAFETY CONSIDERATION: I'm not sure if the JB Weld has enough metal characteristic to strike sparks from the rod, which could create some excitement if it caught your pocket on fire.

Alternatively, you could try taping the outside of the plastic tube holder. While duct tape would work for this, there's a woven nylon tape I've seen recommended as having greater strength and abrasion resistance. Unfortunately, I don't remember the brand name or who posted it IIRC here on BFC somewhere. With tape on the outside of the tube, even if the rod did fracture the plastic tube, the tape would hold the pieces together enough that the rod could not escape.

That fatwood holder you came up with sounds like a prime candidate for the best holder of all. :D I especially like the idea of the holes in the side so you can visually verify that the rod is inside. Additionally, you could wrap some tape around the outside of the fatwood to cushion it. Tape from the outside of the holder could be used for quick access in first aid situations or to attach the Twisty Tie to the rod itself if/when you burn the fatwood holder as tinder. But the tape would cover up the holes so cleverly drilled in the side of the fatwood.
 
I'm still partial to the spy capsule carry method I explained here:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=193548

If you use a 3/8" diameter steel, the maximum length that will fit in the spy capsule is 2". If you use a 1/8" diameter steel, you would probably be able to squeeze a little more length into the capsule, since the top and bottom of the capsule, on the inside, are concave rather than flat.

At any rate, 2" may seem a bit short, but this is, after all, keychain carry. Most of the keychain models I've seen have been no longer than 2" (and some even shorter), with a diameter of 1/8". So the spy capsule method allows you to comfortably carry a thicker (and therefore longer lasting) ferro rod than would otherwise be possible. The alternative would be to drill a hole in one end of the steel and attach a split ring, as Bagheera has done.
 
Donald,

First generation SparkLights were simply shortened versions of the famous Coleman lantern lighter.

Mike
 
Mike,
Now I feel better ;)

I guess they raised the price when they went to plastic.

So you turned the bottom knob to get a spark just like the Coleman ones? They stuck out at the side to hold the flint?

I guess one rationalle for change was to make it compact enough to put in with your matches. Not a bad idea, even though you lose a couple of matches, you gain a spare "striker." When I had trouble lighting those Lifeboat matches, a ferrocerium rod helped.

I suspect my lifeboat matches are not any better than those who have problems with them. I need to experiment. The one match I did get to try recently would not light, broke, grabbed with my Leatherman Wave, broke/splintered. Laid it down and brought the ferrocerium rod into play. The match head barely lit up. No joy there.

After recieving my matches a couple years ago, I noticed the Miami, FL location.

Coughlan's also makes a windproof version of their popular green tips. I don't know how they are.



Re: Coleman sparkers/lighters
I have seen all types of Coleman acessories at Sports Authority and Jet Outdoors, here in Miami, but not that one. If I see it locally I will get one, presuming I have the dollars in my pocket. I think online they were about $3.95.
 
Speaking of some trouble with lifeboat matches I mentioned, I had saved some links to review, so I'll post them in case anyone else is interested.

Topic: Life boat matches
http://ubb.plainsmanscabin.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=4&t=000403

tinder & stuff
http://www.knifeforums.com/ubbthrea...rd=UBB42&Number=80596&page=&view=&sb=&o=&vc=1

Lighting "life boat matches", alternative strikers?
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=118638&highlight=phosphorous

I don't know if I mentioned it in one of those threads, but I did have some waterproofed, with wax, strike-any-where matches in a Boy Scout Match Safe, say 30 years old. They were worthless, as matches, as the heads just crumbled. A caveat for those stockpilers.
 
Does anyone know where to buy the "Sparky" or "Military Match"? I'm a little reluctant to do so from the manufacturer's website after reading the following at www.equipped.org - " ...I particularly like the tiny "Sparky" model by Done Right Mfg. (UPDATE: 01/2002 This company has been sold and is under new management. I have received reports of less than satisfactory customer service. Please report any experiences, good or bad to: dritter@equipped.org."
 
I don't have an answer to CMC's question, and have not looked at that issue recently.

I did realize I now have a picture of the ferrocerium rod holder with some of my other pictures, so I can post it again, since the photopoint pictures are long gone.

FatwoodHolder.jpg


The image is not appearing, at least at the moment, so I will try a link.

Fatwood Ferrocerium Rod Holder


Sorry, neither seem to be working at the moment, perhaps they will later.
 
I suggest you shorten the pic name. use only lowercase letters and numbers. no spaces either
 
Thanks for your suggestions prism. I shortened the picture name, that must have helped, because the image and link now work. Of course like all pictures, if one edits the page they are on, the pictures often disappear. It did appear that a space had crept in too, not sure how that could have happened, perhaps the long name caused an error in the pictures properties, or my attempts to fix the problem.

Fatwoodcandle.jpg


I did try a fatwood candle, such as depicted in the Mors Kochanski book, Bushcraft. The above is a picture of that attempt. The description says to split the end of a pencil to finger thick piece of fatwood, into quarters, and wedge open the splits. Wedging them open more seemed to help, but I still have not found this to be a very reliable source of light, for a very long period.
 
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