Few forging questions

B

byersj79

Joined
Nov 17, 2007
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156
I've been making knives for a couple of years with the stock removal method. I enjoy it very much but I think that forging you own blades adds a little more artistic value to a knife. The little coffee can style forge I built out of a SCBA bottle is not very efficient for this so I want a pro model that will weld. I was thinking of buying a Diamondback two burner mainly for the price and its guarantee to weld. Good or bad?

I have access to hundreds of feet of 1/2in steel cable. I have already checked the cable by heat treating (like I do 1080) a few strands and after they were very brittle. I have heard by that method I have proved that it will make a decent blade. I would love to try some "easy" damascus but is 1/2in too small diameter to fool with?

Also all I have is a shop in my unfinished basement. Where I was thinking of setting up my forge is next to two big windows and for safety I am going to put a fan facing outward in the window when forging. Is that sufficient?

Sorry for the long rambling post and thanks ahead for answers.
 
byersj79 said:
I've been making knives for a couple of years with the stock removal method. I enjoy it very much but I think that forging you own blades adds a little more artistic value to a knife. The little coffee can style forge I built out of a SCBA bottle is not very efficient for this so I want a pro model that will weld. I was thinking of buying a Diamondback two burner mainly for the price and its guarantee to weld. Good or bad?

I have access to hundreds of feet of 1/2in steel cable. I have already checked the cable by heat treating (like I do 1080) a few strands and after they were very brittle. I have heard by that method I have proved that it will make a decent blade. I would love to try some "easy" damascus but is 1/2in too small diameter to fool with?

Also all I have is a shop in my unfinished basement. Where I was thinking of setting up my forge is next to two big windows and for safety I am going to put a fan facing outward in the window when forging. Is that sufficient?

Sorry for the long rambling post and thanks ahead for answers.
Click to expand...

you know i don't know where the though that doing cable Damascus was easy because compared to just a random pattern its not. you have to make sure its clean and that you don't weld any crap (slag inclusions) in between the cables. I have tried to weld cable and i only have problems. if you want to do Damascus then start with some 15n20 and some 1080 and go from there. but if your not familiar with forging you should do that a bit before you try Damascus as you need temp and hammer control to make Damascus work. if you are going to buy a forge i would get the NC knifemaker its a bit more but i have only heard good things about them when there used for what there designed for.
 
Cable can be a real PITA but fun to mess with.the 1/2" is pretty small, the smallest I do is 3/4".If you have plenty practice on a few pieces.Weld the ends and weld on a handle.Bring it up to redand put it in a vice and twist it up tight.Flux the heck out of it,bring it up to welding heat and flux again,bring back up to heat and tap it gently in the direction of the twist. If you can get a chunk to weld up try wrapping 3 pieces of he cable together and weld them.
Have fun.
Stan
 
I agree, the way to get into medicine isn't by trying brain surgery,the way to get into carving isn't a cigar store Indian, and the way into damascus isn't cable.
Stacy
 
I think a couple of weeks ago somebody had some cable damascus analysed and found a lot of decarb. Like a ridiculous amount so while it may still produce a hardenable blade it may not be ideal. Welding in a stainless canister is another story.
 
oh ok I thought cable would be easier to start out with. That's well into the future anyway. Like you said I need to develop my skills before I tackle any type of damascus. Just was asking about the cable because like I said its all free to practice with. Thanks for the help guys. What about my basement setup. That is what concerns me the most. I've read that carbon monoxide poisoning is a big risk with propane. I guess I could forge outside but it would be a hassle and would rather IF SAFE do it inside. Thanks again for the help. This site is great.
 
CO monitors would be a good investment, one on each floor, as wood a couple buckets of water and/or fire extinguishers. Keep an eye on heat levels above the forge and make sure the propane tank is SECURE and won't tip over, liquid propane will expand 250 times which would create a HUGE fireball in your basement. Do not leave the forge unattended, if it goes out, you will be filling your basement with propane and it will sit there until it is exhausted or lit.
 
Might be worth keeping the tank for the gasser outside, and running a fixed line down to the basement, with a shut off before the regulator at the forge.

CO detectors are super cheap, like mentioned above get a couple! - i nearly mullered myself in a nice big open shop running the forge to rich.
 
It might be better to start with your forge outside, just in case.
I was thinking the same thing, get some cable and hey, damascus.
Maybe try a laminated blade with a center core and 2 outside pieces.
Or even another step back and forge a few quench a few, maybe try a hamon and get a few bugs worked out.
Cheers Ron.
 
You need to weld in a very rich reducing/carburizing atmosphere, especially with cable,... because of the greater initial surface area. I've never seen a conventional gas forge that does it very well. So, you have to get a little creative. :)
 
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I am a little suprized no one has said DONT RUN THE FORGE INSIDE. Forges make tons of CO and even in the shop I open the door.
 
Ok thanks guys. I may just go outside to forge. I found what I think is a good deal on a forge, anvil, and stands for both. Whisper baby nearly new, NC Tool 70# anvil, and like i said portable stands for both for $450. Also got a full 40#bottle, a set of tongs and a box full of old big rasps with the deal. I know that it has a hard time welding but I have tons of satanite and itc-100 left over so maybe this will help. If not oh well I still think its a good deal. What do you guys think?
 
Mungo Park said:
It might be better to start with your forge outside, just in case.
I was thinking the same thing, get some cable and hey, damascus.
Maybe try a laminated blade with a center core and 2 outside pieces.
Or even another step back and forge a few quench a few, maybe try a hamon and get a few bugs worked out.
Cheers Ron.
Click to expand...

I said it here, trying to be polite about it.
Cheers Ron.
 
JTknives said:
I am a little suprized no one has said DONT RUN THE FORGE INSIDE. Forges make tons of CO and even in the shop I open the door.
Click to expand...

Exactly..... and I'm talking out my ass (unconfirmed) when I say that i've heard CO fills a room from the bottom, up. That's why the directions on the monitors say to mount it about 1.5-3 feet from the floor.

Rick
 
I could be wrong but I believe Ed Caffery has his forges inside a shop but they are covered with a hood and fan.
 
Picked up all my new toys and coated the forge with satanite cleaned up the outside and gave it a new paint job. It gets hot fast! Heats up a railroad spike to bright yellow in around 2 minutes and 1/4in stock about a minute. I'm impressed so far. The anvil is leaps and bounds ahead of my old cast iron one. The only thing I don't like is the floor is below the lip I was thinking of building that up but wanted to know what you whisper baby owners think of this idea. Thanks guys again for the help and I found a nice spot outside to use my new equipment so its a little safer I hope.
 
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