Fiddleback 01 and CPM154 side by side?

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Has anybody used Fiddleback 01 and Fiddleback CPM154 side by side?


How does the edge retention differ?


Which steel is easier to touch up or sharpen once dull?


With the exception of being stainless, what are the major differences between the two?


Thanks,
Duder.
 
Me personally I think the O1 is easier to touch up/sharpen but I think Andy's spalted 01 looks better! Outside of that I think it is a matter of where you live and how much humidity there is. I use my Sneaky Pete in just about any conditions and have seen a little rust but not much. With that said I am a knife/tool maintenance freak! All my knives and tools get well cleaned, sharpened and oiled after any real use!
 
I'm more or less the same.

I guess my question should be, will CPM-154 hold a sharper/keener edge longer than 01?
 
I don't know which on will hold an edge longer but O1 is very easy to sharpen and as far as toughness I have heard that O1 is tougher, but I gave no experience with CPM-154.
 
I don't have any of his knives, but I have had plenty of knives in both steels. IMO there is no steel that takes a keener edge easier than O1. Every time I get a knife a knife in O1, I have it "sticky" sharp in less than an hour on the stones and I'm always amazed. CPM154 is an excellent stainless and will work great but I'd always choose O1 on an outdoor knife.
 
Thanks guys. I was wondering which steel to go with next. Being that my next purchase will be for an outdoor knife, perhaps I should go with 01.

Anybody prefer CPM-154 over 01 for outdoor knives?
Besides the stainless element of it, why?
 
I've got one knife in CPM 154 and I think the only positive thing on the CPM side is that it's stainless.

That's not to say it's a bad steel...it's a really good stainless compared to others...it's just that all of the categories I'd rate a knife steel on are better in 01 (except that it can rust)... Somethings are more important to people but the number one category I look for in a knife is "How easy can I sharpen this SUCCESSFULLY". 01 is the perfect blend of tough but workable. The steel is so smooth you can put a great edge on it under nearly any method (read our recent sharpening post in this board).

If you lived in Florida or Puerto Rico...someplace with 110% humidity all year, I'd say go stainless. Otherwise go 01.
 
I don't own a Fiddleback. My sharpest (and favorite) carving knife is o1. I have used cpm154. Nothing wrong with it.

I'd take 1 Fiddleback in o1 over 2 in cpm154. :)
 
I do love the O1 for it's ease of touching up the edge quickly. I love the O1 Patina and color qualities if develops. I can get my O1 pleasantly sharp.

So, side to side use... I have compared two 1/8" similar grind Sneaky Pete's. I think I can get the CPM-154 blade sharper (scary sharp). But... In everyday use, it is much easier to lightly strop the O1 and get it plenty sharp. I think I may use a little too much pressure and the CPM-154 is harder and the fine edge holds up better to my rough stropping.

Andy's heat treatment seems very good on both steels, I am happy with both! My advice.... seek out a desirable CPM-154 blade and give it a test drive.

I didn't really help, did I?

-Will
 
I believe crucibles steel chart shows cpm 154 to be tougher than 01 and a2. I like cpm154 , I'm always in a kayak or doing something that gets my gear wet. It's nice to not have to worry about it
 
"How easy can I sharpen this SUCCESSFULLY"

This is a lot of how I think also. Here is the skinney. 01 was designed for edged tools. It is tough, it sharpens easily, and it will hold an edge very well. If you wash an 01 knife in the sink, then sit it beside the sink while you put away the dishes forgetting to wipe it dry, it'll rust before you're done. It is one of the fastest rusting steels. That said, I am a wipe the knife on my pants before sheathing guy, and I've never had pitting on any of my 01 knives. My Recluse lives by the woodpile in my garage in its sheath. It has a patina, but no 'rust'. It was the very first Recluse. I use it to make the kindling for our fires.

The stat sheets make it seem like crucible steels blow everything else away. And its true. They are tougher, and WAY more wear resistant. But they are a DEFINITE PITA to sharpen.

I consider my sharpening skills an 8 out of ten with Ban Tang being a ten. Some of you are at Ban's level some of you are not even at my level. Lets just say I get a lot of knives back to re-sharpen. Many have not even attempted it, others have mangled it. Here is the point. If you can't get 01 sharp, then the problem is you, not the steel, not the grind, not the heat treat. Its also easiest to sharpen in the field, in the kitchen, and even on a boat with a goat.

Think of this. 01 is a VERY popular blade steel for high end chef's knives. How could this be? Wouldn't kitchen use destroy it first day? The reason can be found at the cutting edge. Imagine the routine the chef goes through to maintain that knife without it rusting. It has to be cleaned and dryed each time it is used. They'd keep fingerprints off of it, and prevent anyone but themselves using it. This would have to be made clear to everyone else in the kitchen. A newb that picked that knife up would get tought to never make that mistake again.

Now why don't those chefs use CPM M4 like the cutting competitions? Or the every loved 3V? Why not 3V? Its because of the sharpening process. Plain and simple.
 
This is a lot of how I think also. Here is the skinney. 01 was designed for edged tools. It is tough, it sharpens easily, and it will hold an edge very well. If you wash an 01 knife in the sink, then sit it beside the sink while you put away the dishes forgetting to wipe it dry, it'll rust before you're done. It is one of the fastest rusting steels. That said, I am a wipe the knife on my pants before sheathing guy, and I've never had pitting on any of my 01 knives. My Recluse lives by the woodpile in my garage in its sheath. It has a patina, but no 'rust'. It was the very first Recluse. I use it to make the kindling for our fires.

The stat sheets make it seem like crucible steels blow everything else away. And its true. They are tougher, and WAY more wear resistant. But they are a DEFINITE PITA to sharpen.

I consider my sharpening skills an 8 out of ten with Ban Tang being a ten. Some of you are at Ban's level some of you are not even at my level. Lets just say I get a lot of knives back to re-sharpen. Many have not even attempted it, others have mangled it. Here is the point. If you can't get 01 sharp, then the problem is you, not the steel, not the grind, not the heat treat. Its also easiest to sharpen in the field, in the kitchen, and even on a boat with a goat.

Think of this. 01 is a VERY popular blade steel for high end chef's knives. How could this be? Wouldn't kitchen use destroy it first day? The reason can be found at the cutting edge. Imagine the routine the chef goes through to maintain that knife without it rusting. It has to be cleaned and dryed each time it is used. They'd keep fingerprints off of it, and prevent anyone but themselves using it. This would have to be made clear to everyone else in the kitchen. A newb that picked that knife up would get tought to never make that mistake again.

Now why don't those chefs use CPM M4 like the cutting competitions? Or the every loved 3V? Why not 3V? Its because of the sharpening process. Plain and simple.

Thanks Andy. I think you're wrong though. I can get my knives sharp in the field, I can get them sharp in the kitchen, but I can't seem to get them sharp on a boat with a goat. I think this is a heat treat issue.

All kidding aside, what you said makes perfect sense. Thanks!
 
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I don't have any of Andy's CPM-154 , but his CPM S35VN holds an edge better than O1 and I haven't had any chipping issues. Both of mine are ground thin and have been used for most normal outdoor chores.

It takes a bit longer to sharpen (not really a big issue with ceramic stones or belt grinder that I use) and stropping an edge on it that has gotten a bit too dull isn't something I'd like to have to do.
O1 is faster and easier, but I might prefer A2 over it..

Not really had any rust on O1, but I have had very slight surface rust on CPM S35VN after using it in salt water (kayaking) and had it sitting in a kydex sheath a few hours afterwards. I got my S35VNs for when using around seawater since O1 isn't a fan of that. The rust on the S35VN wiped right off, not sure how my O1 Bushfinger would have liked it..
 
I am currently polishing a large CPM 154CM blade and I can testify with my hand on a bible that it is a VERY wear resistant steel. I like my deer knife to be 154CM because it always seems like after I dress a deer, I am in a mad scramble to get my deer, myself and my gear loaded...usually in the rain or in the dark. I take out my knife the next morning and see that it is still full of blood and guts. I am the poster boy for stainless. I never try to sharpen a 154CM blade in the field because it is not necessary. I can dress a couple of deer and process them down to cooler size and still shave. I sharpen once at the beginning of hunting season using a bur king and that is all I need.
 
I was always of the understanding you should never let a knife get so full that its difficult to sharpen. That one should do fast and easy maintenance sharpening. If this regiment is followed, I don't see how 154 can be difficult to sharpen at all, even with sandpaper and or compounds on a strop. Am I off in my thinking?
 
I was always of the understanding you should never let a knife get so full that its difficult to sharpen. That one should do fast and easy maintenance sharpening. If this regiment is followed, I don't see how 154 can be difficult to sharpen at all, even with sandpaper and or compounds on a strop. Am I off in my thinking?


Solid advice but probably not gospel. For the sandpaper method you absolutely should never let them get too far gone or you'll be there all day trying to get an edge back. And you'll never get super clean geometry. The other side of that coin is the less you are sharpening, the less mistakes you are making. If you are always stropping it or putting it on a water stone, and you don't have a good drag technique, you are always slightly changing the shape of the edge.
 
As long as you keep to some simple rules with sharpening you won't screw your edges up. Andy puts a nice edge bevel on his knives, by that I mean balanced and consistent from tip to handle. Always use the same number of strokes on each side, cover the entire edge with each stroke and work on ensuring you maintain your angle through each stroke. maintaining an angle is something which becomes easier with time (one hand finds it easier than the other to start).

Personally I re-profile every knife I have to a convex edge using the mousemat method followed by a strop. they almost certainly end up with a different edge angle to the one it came with but I feel the benefits are worth it.

I don't have any of Andy's knives in CPM 154 but I do have several pocket knives in it and it's my favourite stainless. As a rough rule of thumb you have to assume it'll take twice as long as O1 for example to get sharp. It can take a wicked edge and in my experience doesn't chip like S30-V.

I like it:)

Sam
 
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