Fiddleback Handle Tutorial

1/4" thick Cocobolo, and 1/8" thick Osage..... sounds like a good combination.

Do you have a pic of this one finished?
mtut50-vi.jpg
 
The middle Nessmuk is Cocobolo over Osage:

n1201-vi.jpg


Edited to add that the knife at the top is Osage over Cocobolo.
 
Somehow I found this thread and thought it would be good to bring it back up. I learned alot from it, mainly you using your wheel to hog off the wood at first. I never even thought of that and have been doing mine with files which takes awhile. It seems it might also keep your pins flush too along with your filework after. Good stuff and thanks for posting it...a couple years ago :)
 
KFU said:
Somehow I found this thread and thought it would be good to bring it back up. I learned alot from it, mainly you using your wheel to hog off the wood at first. I never even thought of that and have been doing mine with files which takes awhile. It seems it might also keep your pins flush too along with your filework after. Good stuff and thanks for posting it...a couple years ago :)
Click to expand...

Yeah, what he said. Now have you stopped using Corby's? Because i see a lot of micarta pins these days and was wondering how they compare as far as durability. Also is there any special epoxy you use these days to glue the handle material (wood or micarta) to the tang?
 
Could be time for a bit of an update, considering Andy uses micarta layering, G10 liners, micarta pins, bolsters, etc. now. I would love to know how makers at Andy's level shape and finish the leading edge of their scales before glue-up. That is always a struggle for me to get them symmetrical.
 
chainring said:
I would love to know how makers at Andy's level shape and finish the leading edge of their scales before glue-up. That is always a struggle for me to get them symmetrical.
Click to expand...

Me too! That is much harder than I ever thought it would be.
 
I don't know how Andy does it but I just use a jig and grind the shape of one side on the flat platen. Then I take the other slab and clamp it to the one that is to shape already and use the first one as a guide. Once the two are exactly the same I finish with hand sanding using the same grits as I plan to finish the rest of the handle with. All still clamped together, finishing with the scotch brite pads. Works well to get the same lines on both sides. I have not done any rounded however, so that might present a whole new challenge.

chainring said:
Could be time for a bit of an update, considering Andy uses micarta layering, G10 liners, micarta pins, bolsters, etc. now. I would love to know how makers at Andy's level shape and finish the leading edge of their scales before glue-up. That is always a struggle for me to get them symmetrical.
Click to expand...
 
Yeah, I'm catching up, I angled my platen the other day and did both scales like you are describing, Jared. The pillowed curve still gives me trouble, though. It takes forever.
 
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