The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
here's a very informative postPlease direct me to posts about how Handmade Fiddlebacks are made. Thanks, I can't find it.
Whelp ChoBro, it seems the image links are not working correctly. they are not loading correctly for me.Thank you very much!
Chobro
Awesomeness.
I suppose this leads to enough variation in one model alone, it's worth getting several of a favorite to fine tune the perfect fit.
Hey Justin, you're exactly right! To have a little fun here, let's take a look at different angles comparing 3 Bushfingers.Awesomeness.
I suppose this leads to enough variation in one model alone, it's worth getting several of a favorite to fine tune the perfect fit.
Awesomeness.
I suppose this leads to enough variation in one model alone, it's worth getting several of a favorite to fine tune the perfect fit.
Hey Justin, you're exactly right! To have a little fun here, let's take a look at different angles comparing 3 Bushfingers.
Yes, I'd shoot for 5 of each model in various steel thicknesses, handles, tapered and full tangs. And of course one user when you find that right fit so you can be sure to have one to throw dirt on to show the hardcore knaf users
Hey Justin, you're exactly right! To have a little fun here, let's take a look at different angles comparing 3 Bushfingers.
Where you'll see definite consistency is in the profile silhouette. Take away the silhouette aspect and the blade could be convex grind or scandi grind. Within convex grinds, it could be a super high grind, lower grind or somewhere between.
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Scale material aside, take a moment to pick which handle you think you might like best.
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After you made a selection, scroll down.
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Surprise!
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Among the three, one is 3/32", one is 1/8" and one is 5/32". Can you guess steel widths from this angle?
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Or this angle? Note in these two butt-end shots how much different they appear from each other vs when you saw them in the first picture.
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Continue scrolling down to see the steel thicknesses.
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And here are your spine shots, steel widths and additional differences in handle contours.
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The top one is 5/32" TT
The middle one is 1/8" TT
And the bottom one ends up with the widest / most roundish handle along with 3/32" SFT.
At this point, there is no good or bad, right or wrong .. there is only user preference to decide which each person likes best. A wider handle and wider blade stock is likely going to be more comfy for extended use, especially with bushcrafting. I happen to prefer the middle knife handle the best because the handle is narrower and has a nice pinch grip with a little flare up front. The 1/8" TT and 5/32" TT have pretty similar measurements at the pinch grip but the 5/32" TT doesn't flare as much up front. To someone else, the 1/8" TT specimen might be their least favorite. Taken further, some folks absolutely love full tang, some absolutely love tapered tang and some might not even notice if there's a taper or not.
So yes! Buy a few (or as Danny said) 5 of each![]()
Thanks and no problem. Please note that I've had a good number of duplicates across a good number of models and they usually don't vary that much. That was the most variation I've seen so thought I ought to take pics while I had them. The main point was that the starting template/blank is the same and then since they're hand made, they can vary. Also if you get a first of a model and it doesn't agree with your hands, try not to dismiss that model because you could very well get another and have it end up being your most favorite.Outstanding post. Thank you Sir. I will be honest, that is more variation than I expected!
Thanks and no problem. Please note that I've had a good number of duplicates across a good number of models and they usually don't vary that much. That was the most variation I've seen so thought I ought to take pics while I had them. The main point was that the starting template/blank is the same and then since they're hand made, they can vary. Also if you get a first of a model and it doesn't agree with your hands, try not to dismiss that model because you could very well get another and have it end up being your most favorite.
Not that I know of. You could also get something commando with no liners or stripes or there could be thicker liners/stripes. It's like a box of chocolatesHmmmm. This is a good point. The primary method I'm using to determine suitability is my preferred blade profile, and the in hand feel. Though I suspect I wouldn't remove one from the possible pool for being too thin or thick based on this information.
In general are there any predictable trends, like wood is generally narrow, micarta is thicker?
when Allen cuts the raw material on the table saw, he has a exact thickness that he cuts them to. the rest is on how Andy shapes them.Not that I know of. You could also get something commando with no liners or stripes or there could be thicker liners/stripes. It's like a box of chocolates
VANCE Would you say that all the scales start out at the same general thickness and then it depends on how much time there is spent against a sanding belt? Or do some materials start with thinner out thicker scales?
One of the patterns I'd love to try next is a EDK or a Hiking Buddy.
i sent you one of my EDK's with your shipment this week. It's been all over the place. It's been on tour w/ moe.One of the patterns I'd love to try next is a EDK or a Hiking Buddy.