Field axe sharpening

1

18X

Joined
Dec 21, 2013
Messages
107
I have a basic ability for knives but have not done any axe sharpening so what can I use since a stone seems to small
 
many with more experience than me, but I use a file and puck for field touchups
 
File and puck here too. A vise is needed with the file too, especially if you are rehabbing an old axe.
 
Nicolson axe file! No muss no fuss and one single flat hard working surface required, namely a tree stump, stair tread or truck tailgate. That's how I learned with Dept of Lands & Forests 40+ years ago and at that time we were swinging axes 8 hours a day. Aspiring to shave with an axe is a fine ideal for folks with absolutely nothing to do but file sharpening comes pretty darn close and does not take anywhere near as long to accomplish.
 
For "in field axe" sharpening I don't think you should need more than a puck. If the axe is properly profiled in the shop with a file and then honed--you should not need more than a puck to keep it tuned in the field. You could additionally strop it yet if you want. Once I have an axe profiled and honed I don't want to use a file unless I have to remove a chip because then you need to hone all over again to remove the rough file edge. I find that an axe with a honed and stropped edge is less likely to chip during normal usage than a grainy filed edge. The filed edge might be OK if you are using the axe for softwoods only.
 
You don't need to strop but you can easily carry a piece of leather to do this if you want to remove any remaining wire edge with a few swipes. A little pocket rod like a mini butcher's steel will do the same thing by swiping it along the bit. It all depends on what you are doing with your axe. Stropping is not needed for chopping but if you want to shave down wood to fit or fashion something, a fine edge will help. To field strop the edge with either a rod or a piece of leather you simply swipe it along the bit while pushing away from the edge.
 
I would want to strop to maintain the edge longer
Is there anything that needs to be applied to it
 
If you have a brand-new Fiskars X-series made-in-Finland axe/hatchet/whatever ... just leave it alone.

Come back here in a year for more advice:)
 
It depends on what you are doing in the field. Work with the DNR or USFS for fire suppression or trail crews will often involve close to the ground work. Ultimately nicking the edge. You will need a file. Under these conditions you are wasting time using a hone and strop. If you are limbing trees or bushcraft or something similar, an extremely fine edge is helpful and a hone and strop will be beneficial. After you set your bevel, use your hone and strop the same way you would on knives.
 
oldmanron said:
If you have a brand-new Fiskars X-series made-in-Finland axe/hatchet/whatever ... just leave it alone.
Click to expand...

I just got the gerber camp axe 2 aka the fiskars x10 i believe it is
But i figured itd b better to start learning now and maybe practice on the old wooden handled axes we have now so i dont mess up the axe when i need to sharpen it
 
18X said:
I just got the gerber camp axe 2 aka the fiskars x10 i believe it is
But i figured itd b better to start learning now and maybe practice on the old wooden handled axes we have now so i dont mess up the axe when i need to sharpen it
Click to expand...

Unless you decide to play stick the hatchet in the tree you probably won't need a file. But a single cut fine file will give a surprisingly smooth edge. I sharpen away from the edge (honing). If you sharpen towards the edge you will need a good guard on the file to help prevent nasty cuts. Start with the worst ax you have, post pictures, and follow the advice after considering if it will work for you.
 
Just a puck or similar stone in the field. You can strop on the thigh of your Carharts if you feel the need. It helps.
 
Ive seen those
I was wondering which ones would be good to get. Which ones would a knife need as apposed to the axe
 
If you start off the day with a correctly profiled and sharpened axe...A Lanky Puck should be all you would need for one day in the field. It has a course side an a medium grit side. The course will remove metal fast and the medium side will refine your edge. The puck is easy to carry with you.

Just google Lansky Puck and you find them for under $10. Check your local hardware store, they may have one in stock.

If you want to get fancy, there's a Gransfors Bruks Ceramic Sharpening Stone...

It will do the same job for 4x's the price.

Tom
 
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I use a DMT diafold in the field. I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that I personally dislike pucks. They just seem so inefficient for sharpening the convex bevel of an axe. A circular motion means that angle inconsistencies can occur in any direction. Pushing straight into the bit with a file eliminates one axis of variation, and uses the other to maintain the bevel. I hope this makes sense. Maybe it needs a separate thread.
 
18X said:
Ive seen those
I was wondering which ones would be good to get. Which ones would a knife need as apposed to the axe
Click to expand...
You don't want to do anything with your knife that would chip it so I would get the finest grit for the knife.
 
I like the circular motion of a puck to blend all the angles together and keep the transitions smooth and the edge straight. I have a DMT diafold that I also use with a circular motion but the puck covers a larger span along the edge which helps to keep it straight so that is what I typically use. When I file I don't move straight up and down but also move along the edge to cover a wider swath and help to avoid the creation of a rippled edge ... but whatever works for you
 
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