Field axe sharpening

Fiskars sells a Model 7861 two-wheel ceramic sharpener designed specifically for the 30 degree Scandi-style grind (zero convexing) on their X series line of hatchets and axes. It's about $11 on Amazon, and the 329 customer reviews are generally positive, with an average of 4 out of 5 stars. If your Gerber-branded Fiskars Carpenter's Axe has that same straight bevel as the regular Fiskars (and I'm sure that it does), you should be good-to-go. I have one, and it seems like a simple and effective way to maintain the edge. However, I haven't had any need to use it so far ... all I did with the new axe was polish-up the edge a bit with my Worksharp Knife Sharpener ... being super careful not to start convexing that wonderful straight Scandi bevel.
 
Last edited:
A Lansky Puck should be all you would need for one day in the field.

True words, Tom. Once, slapped my pocket headin' out the door and said, "Got my puck, I'm good." Nicked a rock later and discovered my "puck" was a can of Copenhagen. Decided it was time to quit snoose at that point, after throwin' the can into the weeds and cussin' a lot. :grumpy:
 
Hmm two different schools of thought
You are quite right! I wouldn't dare to think about sharpening a Pulaski; defeats the whole purpose of one for grubbing roots and rocks. Same with a splitting axe or maul. Degree of sharpness becomes a moot point, or effort of diminishing returns, when all you do is cut shrubs, limb branches and chop trees but it is nice not to have chipped blades.
 
From what im hearing depending on what a small chip to you is you want a file or something course enough to wear it down
 
I let my brother (who I thought was smart enough to not chop into dirt) borrow my X7 and it has a few small chips. Will this help remove those or am I out of luck?

I doubt it ... that kind of sharpener is mostly to maintain/tune-up a decent edge. Try to borrow a file from a friend, or suck-it-up and purchase one ... I believe that a Nicholson "bastard file" is the standard go-to tool for this kind of job.

Buying and owning a quality file will make you feel good ... it's similar to the satisfaction of owning a quality axe or hatchet or knife. And cheaper. :)

MAJOR EDIT - I just noticed that Lee Valley Tools (a very well-regarded Canada-wide retailer of well-priced premium stuff) no longer sells those Nicholson files, and the company has replaced them with similarly-priced high end Grobet Swiss® Mill files. Some fast Googling revealed that (among file buffs) Nicholson does not enjoy the stellar rep that it used to have, and that some of their stuff is now made in Mexico. I don't have time now to confirm this info, but it's worth researching further.
 
Last edited:
Looks like those files are real cheap. I'll pick one up. Worst case scenario is I really botch the edge and have to buy a new X7.
 
Looks like those files are real cheap. I'll pick one up. Worst case scenario is I really botch the edge and have to buy a new X7.

You'll be fine ... I like to stand out on the front deck (on a decent day) and do the work on the stout 2-by-6 that is the top railing. Just set the axe-head on the railing with the to-be-sharpened axe edge poking-out about a half-inch beyond the outside edge of the railing ... and have at 'er ... stroking the file down and away from the blade-edge. It goes without saying that you'll want to determine the correct angle (by trial-and-error) and then try to be consistent as you work on each side.

If it's a particularly warm/sweet day, you might wanna keep a can a beer sittin' (on the rail) about a foot away from the action ... on the same side as the hand that's doin' the filin'. It is a good way to avoid the dreaded carpal tunnel syndrome.
 
I doubt it ... that kind of sharpener is mostly to maintain/tune-up a decent edge. Try to borrow a file from a friend, or suck-it-up and purchase one ... I believe that a Nicholson "bastard file" is the standard go-to tool for this kind of job.

Nicholson's quality has gone down hill in the past few years since they started outsourcing production to China and India. Even some of the newer USA made files aren't so hot. They'll do the job, but they don't last as long as they used to. I know some guys who are buying up old deadstock files now because of this. There are some European makers that seem to be making better product, Pferd for one. But they are a bit more expensive.
 
Nicholson's quality has gone down hill in the past few years since they started outsourcing production to China and India. Even some of the newer USA made files aren't so hot. They'll do the job, but they don't last as long as they used to. I know some guys who are buying up old deadstock files now because of this. There are some European makers that seem to be making better product, Pferd for one. But they are a bit more expensive.

Yes ... thanks ... I quickly realized this ... and while you were posting this at 4:45 I was back editing my comment at 4:49. My first clue was when I went to the Lee Valley Tools website and noticed that they had replaced their Nicholson files with similar Grobet models.
 
I personally carry a set of DMT credit card sharpeners in a small leather pouch I made (which doubles as a strop if I don't feel like removing my belt). The whole thing has about the same dimensions as my wallet and tucks into my back pocket opposite it, keeping my butt-checks even :p

But in all seriousness, you can actually use them similarly to an axe puck while also having the benefit of them:
-removing metal faster
-staying flat
-working well with knives and other tools
-being more compact while also offering 3 grit sizes (325, 600, 1200)

The kit allows me to maintain a shaving sharp edge on all my tools while out in the field yet it carries so well that I've started EDCing it. I actually have used it to sharpen up one friend's dull SAK and another's kitchen knife.

The key here though is easy-to-pack maintenance for minor stuff... I'm sure you'd want a good 10-12" bastard file, larger sharpeners, and some clamps or a vise for any re-profiling or to take care of bigger dings/chips. Stuff like that is probably either going to be with your pack/base camp or at home.
 
I personally carry a set of DMT credit card sharpeners in a small leather pouch I made (which doubles as a strop if I don't feel like removing my belt). The whole thing has about the same dimensions as my wallet and tucks into my back pocket opposite it, keeping my butt-checks even :p

But in all seriousness, you can actually use them similarly to an axe puck while also having the benefit of them:
-removing metal faster
-staying flat
-working well with knives and other tools
-being more compact while also offering 3 grit sizes (325, 600, 1200)

The kit allows me to maintain a shaving sharp edge on all my tools while out in the field yet it carries so well that I've started EDCing it. I actually have used it to sharpen up one friend's dull SAK and another's kitchen knife.

The key here though is easy-to-pack maintenance for minor stuff... I'm sure you'd want a good 10-12" bastard file, larger sharpeners, and some clamps or a vise for any re-profiling or to take care of bigger dings/chips. Stuff like that is probably either going to be with your pack/base camp or at home.

I've glued some grinding film to the back of my DMT. You could make yours 2 sided also. i.e. maybe some 120 grit. You can get diamond film or some of that new boron nitride. But it is pretty expensive. But my 600/1000 takes up less space in my wallet than 2 DMTs.
 
I like the circular motion of a puck to blend all the angles together and keep the transitions smooth and the edge straight. I have a DMT diafold that I also use with a circular motion but the puck covers a larger span along the edge which helps to keep it straight so that is what I typically use. When I file I don't move straight up and down but also move along the edge to cover a wider swath and help to avoid the creation of a rippled edge ... but whatever works for you

Hmm two different schools of thought

Definitely differing school's of thought! I'm real stubborn when it comes to sharpening, as I imagine a lot of folks are. It's not a matter of trying to convert, just share ideas. Everyone will eventually figure out what works best for them through experience.
 
I have started to move away from stones in the field.

P1010003.JPG

P1010004.JPG
 
Back
Top