i hear the term field expedient around alot of the survival sites, meaning that it can be made in the field.
well in the case of a broken axe handle, i figured out how to do it in my mind. this meant that i have "known how" to do it, but had not actually tried it from step one until today. prior to today though i have made hatchet and other tools handles from felled tree to fine polish, but with my workbench of tools beside me to make the experience easier (and more finely tuned).
today i had a minute, and have been meaning to replace the handle on a hardware store hatchet (the handle finally broke a while ago), and figured i would have a go at field expedient hatchet handles.
here is what i did. obviously not the ultimate formula or anything, but this will get you through a day or two just fine if you happen to break your hatchet handle while out in the bush.
many of you will remember the thread i posted a while ago on cutting down a sapling with a knife. i used the same wood because i didn't feel the need to cut down more trees. the same technique can be applied to freshly cut wood just as well.
1. select sapling at least as big in diameter as the eye of your hatchet is in its longest dimension (edge to butt orientation) cut down.
2. (if not already done) clean what is left of handle out of hatchet
3. (this is where i started today) trim stave to length. i left plenty of extra length on mine. it ended up being about 20 inches long, as opposed to the 13 inches of the original handle.
to trim the stave, the hatchet head can be held like so for light chopping, a little easier than working the knife:
4. (optional)split the top of your handle with a knife (or the hatchet edge if it is all you have) about 4 to 5 inches in. be careful not to over split.
5. shave top of handle (end with optional split) to rough shape of eye. make it a little too big.
6. shave the eye portion slowly down until it makes a tight fit into the eye of the hatchet.
7. force hatchet head onto handle with hands. (don't cut yourself!!!). when it can be forced no further, slam end of handle (opposite end from the head) into a stump, log, or rock repeatedly. you are forcing the hatchet head onto the handle
8. (optional if you did step 4) whittle a wedge and pound into split. leave wedge sticking out so that as the wood dries and shrinks, the wedge can be pounded further in to keep the head tight on
i did step 4 (splitting the top) but decided to skip step 8 as it was starting to rain harder and my fingers were getting quite numb.
i did however chop some sticks to prove to myself that even without a wedge, the hatchet can be used. in between cuts i smacked the butt of the handle on a log a few times to keep the head tight.
when i took the head off to prepare to put in a proper handle, i discovered that even when loosened, the head was very firmly seated on the handle.
just thought i would share this. it is possible, and certainly do-able. the time stamps on my camera tell me that it took about 20 minutes, but i figure it would have been about 10-15 if i hadn't been worrying about taking pictures. decent weather would have been nice too.
i figured i should figure this out now instead of when i am in a real problem situation.
ps: if you break the handle, do not bury the head in the ground with the eye exposed and build a fire over it. this is a good way to ruin the temper and make a mess of your hatchet head. you may also have trouble building a fire without your hatchet, depending on the situation. just get some sections of sticks and pound the wood out.
well in the case of a broken axe handle, i figured out how to do it in my mind. this meant that i have "known how" to do it, but had not actually tried it from step one until today. prior to today though i have made hatchet and other tools handles from felled tree to fine polish, but with my workbench of tools beside me to make the experience easier (and more finely tuned).
today i had a minute, and have been meaning to replace the handle on a hardware store hatchet (the handle finally broke a while ago), and figured i would have a go at field expedient hatchet handles.
here is what i did. obviously not the ultimate formula or anything, but this will get you through a day or two just fine if you happen to break your hatchet handle while out in the bush.
many of you will remember the thread i posted a while ago on cutting down a sapling with a knife. i used the same wood because i didn't feel the need to cut down more trees. the same technique can be applied to freshly cut wood just as well.
1. select sapling at least as big in diameter as the eye of your hatchet is in its longest dimension (edge to butt orientation) cut down.
2. (if not already done) clean what is left of handle out of hatchet
3. (this is where i started today) trim stave to length. i left plenty of extra length on mine. it ended up being about 20 inches long, as opposed to the 13 inches of the original handle.
to trim the stave, the hatchet head can be held like so for light chopping, a little easier than working the knife:
4. (optional)split the top of your handle with a knife (or the hatchet edge if it is all you have) about 4 to 5 inches in. be careful not to over split.
5. shave top of handle (end with optional split) to rough shape of eye. make it a little too big.
6. shave the eye portion slowly down until it makes a tight fit into the eye of the hatchet.
7. force hatchet head onto handle with hands. (don't cut yourself!!!). when it can be forced no further, slam end of handle (opposite end from the head) into a stump, log, or rock repeatedly. you are forcing the hatchet head onto the handle
8. (optional if you did step 4) whittle a wedge and pound into split. leave wedge sticking out so that as the wood dries and shrinks, the wedge can be pounded further in to keep the head tight on
i did step 4 (splitting the top) but decided to skip step 8 as it was starting to rain harder and my fingers were getting quite numb.
i did however chop some sticks to prove to myself that even without a wedge, the hatchet can be used. in between cuts i smacked the butt of the handle on a log a few times to keep the head tight.
when i took the head off to prepare to put in a proper handle, i discovered that even when loosened, the head was very firmly seated on the handle.
just thought i would share this. it is possible, and certainly do-able. the time stamps on my camera tell me that it took about 20 minutes, but i figure it would have been about 10-15 if i hadn't been worrying about taking pictures. decent weather would have been nice too.
i figured i should figure this out now instead of when i am in a real problem situation.
ps: if you break the handle, do not bury the head in the ground with the eye exposed and build a fire over it. this is a good way to ruin the temper and make a mess of your hatchet head. you may also have trouble building a fire without your hatchet, depending on the situation. just get some sections of sticks and pound the wood out.