Field knife for dad

T

The Gopher

Joined
Mar 4, 2011
Messages
176
The knife and sheath are for my dad, hopefully it sees lots of action in the pheasant fields! I was going for a laguiole (sp?) Style fixed blade. The blade is O1, before i knew about 1084!The handle is edge grain white oak. On to the sheath, I angled the basketweave, but as I was trying to avoid stretching the leather I was a little timid in striking the tool. The pattern seems a little light. I'm learning with every sheath (and knife) and enjoy doing this. I can take all criticism as I'm new and trying to learn, Thanks for taking a look!



 
Overall it looks very nice but there are a couple things that will make it look even better. Spend some more time on the hand sanding next time. I know it sucks and is boring but that makes all the difference in a blade looking like your 100th instead of 2nd or 3rd. There are still some marks on the ricasso and scale in the plunge. I'm assuming you're filing and couldn't get into the plunge? Also try to center the choil on the plunge line. The shape and handle looks very good. If the oak isn't stabilized then you may have issues with it cracking over time because it's not very strong cut like that however it looks great! Like I said, very nice looking knife and I'm sure your dad will love it!
 
Thanks Matt, you're right this was done with files, I did this blade earlier but only finished the handle recently. I've gotten a bit better getting into the plunges but it is still a problem for me that im working on. The oak is stabilized, but that is still a concern of mine. Thank you for the comments, I appreciate them!

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I love that handle! Is edge grain the same as end grain? I have a few White Oaks in my yard with a large part of one down during Matthew. How cool would that be to use for handles material?

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No its not the same, that must have been an auto correct that i didn't catch. It is END grain, thanks for the catch!

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Overall a very nice knife. Just be aware that end grain wood is inherently weak and can crack easily.
 
Yes sir, I know it is a risk but wanted to try it, and if it does crack I know my dad will let me know and he knows where to get a replacement. Also with the amount of pheasant hunting he does, he is a great field tester!

I seem to learn something new with every knife, but also find a new way to make a mistake with every knife! I guess that's party of the process.

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It appears as if you finished the forward edge part of the handle while on the knife and the ricasso got scratched. That part of the handle needs to be to final finished before you glue the handles on so you dont get the ricasso scratches (if that is where they came from). Very nice knife tho, well done.
 
good looking set. I like the sheath a lot as well!
Can't tell from the pic, you did sink the thread, did you?
 
Good eyes, Bart. I don't think he gouged a thread groove. That makes the thread sit above the leather. It may wear with use and the sheath come loose.

Gopher,
It isn't a huge problem to unstitch the sheath and re-do the groove and stitching. Otherwise, just let it go on this one and learn to groove the thread line on future sheaths.
 
Thanks guys, I did groove the leather before stiching, maybe didn't go deep enough though?

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If you run your finger over the leather and can't feel the thread you are sure it is save.
It doesn't mean that it is wrong if you can feel it, but everything that is higher then the leather can in theory wear away.

I stitch leather wet, pull each stitch strongly so it is as tight as possible.
Before I pull buth sides of the thread to make a stitch I go around the right hand side loop twice with the right hand side needle. That makes a knot that will sit IN the leather. If the stitching will go lose somewere, the knots will hold the stitches and prefent them all from going lose.
(I hope this makes sence)
 
Hengelo_77 said:
If you run your finger over the leather and can't feel the thread you are sure it is save.
It doesn't mean that it is wrong if you can feel it, but everything that is higher then the leather can in theory wear away.

I stitch leather wet, pull each stitch strongly so it is as tight as possible.
Before I pull buth sides of the thread to make a stitch I go around the right hand side loop twice with the right hand side needle. That makes a knot that will sit IN the leather. If the stitching will go lose somewere, the knots will hold the stitches and prefent them all from going lose.
(I hope this makes sence)
Click to expand...

I'd like to add to this. "wet" means just a bit damp, not like you dunked it.
 
I do work with leather pretty wet. That alows the threat to be pulled in the leather
 
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