File guard

Those are the exact 123 blocks I use. I use a 2" C clamp to hold em together. But, using the tapped holes would work also. Have not tried to use the tapped holes yet.
 
Yeah i know a guy on here is selling them with hardware for 25 thats with the shipping. im gonna email him see if he can hold a one for me on the account i just spent 500$ today. thx gixx i think your the one i found them thru ne way on one of your post:thumbup:
 
OK, I must not know what a file guard is. If it is what I think it to be, how is 48 rc, going to not be cut by 65+ rc?
 
Those 123 blocks are harder than 48 cause during use the files do not grab the steel. If you so have it right up against the grinding belt, you do have to use a bit of finesse cause belts will still grind hardened steel. But yea, files slide on the stuff.
 
Vinny203 said:
Yeah i know a guy on here is selling them with hardware for 25 thats with the shipping. im gonna email him see if he can hold a one for me on the account i just spent 500$ today. thx gixx i think your the one i found them thru ne way on one of your post:thumbup:
Click to expand...

Vinny those are grossly over-priced. Check Enco or J&L or the link above in this thread for just $8.95
 
Pardon the stupid question, but I can't seem to get the search function to operate for the life of me. What exactly is a file guard? From what I've gathered, it clamps on the blade near the base, but I'm not sure of its function.
 
With a file guard, or guide, or jig, or whatever you want to call it, you can clamp it on your blade and file a perfect shoulder for the guard, or even file perfectly matched plunge lines. I make mine from heavy files. They can be made from PG 01 also. I have three on hand that cover most thicknesses of steel that I use.
 
Another thing you cand do and it helps with more than just filing your plunges is to take a set of files and grind the teeth off on the sides on one and the flats off on another. This will help keep you from filing what you don't want to file. I made my file guide by taking some 5160 and machining 2 matching bars about 2 1/2"x3/4"x1/4" then I match drilled them on the ends and tapped 1 to 5/16nc and then redrilled the second to 5/16". Hardened them and tempered to 400f. Work great.
 
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