File source. Where do you pick them up at?

T

theHobbyist

Joined
Oct 3, 2012
Messages
885
OK, so a recent impulse buy is holding off my order from NJSB (thanks Ryan :P). Anyways I've been picking up mystery steel from a local machine shop to get the hang of shaping and filing and filing and sanding and more filing and sanding... and under the advice of the machinists, I'm not heat treating them or going to completion as the metal is probably not worth making a knife out of... So I just file away until I get what I want, or in most cases a smaller version of what I want... but here's the rub, my files suck. They suck hard <explitive>, They clog fast, the chalk trick seems not to work and they wear stupid quick.

In the post "Shop Setup 101", cabonsteel928 posts a comprehensive list of files. I've done some searching around and haven't found a source that has them all, not that I'm going to pick up all 22 items listed, but probably half (maybe substitute some safety files here and there if possible).

Anyways good old brick and mortar stores lack quality files here or if they have good ones they're very spendy, so can anyone point me in a good direction to get good (or great) prices on some good files?

Or if carbonsteele028, stops by can you, would you be so kind and share your source with me?
 
I've bought most of my tools from MSC Industrial Supply. They have a huge selection.
 
You honestly don't need all of them, half of them, or even a quarter. One or two of the most basic Bastard files at ten or twelve inches will be fine for what you should need. I have used them for a few years to clean up my flats or really anything. The half round files work great for curves or handle shapes. If it's taking too long, breath for a moment and remember that it takes some time. Maybe the steel is too hard already?
 
I go to the flea market , where I find lots of older , quality files . Some are in better condition than others so you have to pick and choose.
 
Memorial Day weekend I got about 20 old Nichols (USA) files for $7 at a rummage sale. If they are dirty or a little rusty(surface only) that is no problem. I used the tip of my knife to clean out the serrations on the files so I could make sure they were just packed with material instead of worn out.
 
eric brinkerhoff said:
I go to the flea market , where I find lots of older , quality files . Some are in better condition than others so you have to pick and choose.
Click to expand...

Sadly, the flea markets out here are mostly bootleg merchandise or other household wares...

Blackfeather said:
You honestly don't need all of them, half of them, or even a quarter. One or two of the most basic Bastard files at ten or twelve inches will be fine for what you should need. I have used them for a few years to clean up my flats or really anything. The half round files work great for curves or handle shapes. If it's taking too long, breath for a moment and remember that it takes some time. Maybe the steel is too hard already?
Click to expand...

It's not really how long it takes, well that is part of it, but when after 2 or three passes the file does little more than scratch the surface, it's pretty much time for new files lol... I was thinking about that, what's the lest I could get away with, I figured half round and flat bastard, and the same in seconds and smooth. Most of the stuff I've been working on has been mystery steel, so I can't wait to get something proper to work on.

mossyhorn said:
I've bought most of my tools from MSC Industrial Supply. They have a huge selection.
Click to expand...
I'll get google to do my bidding =) thanks for the point in the right direction
 
I had similar questions and got really good answers here:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...and-Files?highlight=recommendation+hand+files

I've been pretty happy with my Brazilian made Nicholsons from the local farm supply- Lowe's and Home Depot carry Nicholson, but check the origin on the back of the package. Mexico made files are typically unreliable. I just got a new Simonds 12" multi-kut off Amazon for faster metal removal on the rough out. It should be faster than my 10" half round bastard double cut, but I'll post more info when I've put it through its paces. There's lots more info on the thread. I would explore the Simonds website if I were you in conjunction with the shop.google.com search engine. Good luck !
 
Schleifstein said:
I had similar questions and got really good answers here:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...and-Files?highlight=recommendation+hand+files

I've been pretty happy with my Brazilian made Nicholsons from the local farm supply- Lowe's and Home Depot carry Nicholson, but check the origin on the back of the package. Mexico made files are typically unreliable. I just got a new Simonds 12" multi-kut off Amazon for faster metal removal on the rough out. It should be faster than my 10" half round bastard double cut, but I'll post more info when I've put it through its paces. There's lots more info on the thread. I would explore the Simonds website if I were you in conjunction with the shop.google.com search engine. Good luck !
Click to expand...

I remember that thread, only just, that magicut kind of rings a bell... and thanks for linking me to it again.
I've got some Nicholsons from Home Depot, and they're pretty much craptastic. After just a few uses they barely move micarta, I didn't think to look at the origin though.

I'll be sure to bookmark and go through your thread again to get retooled.
 
This seems like a silly question, but is the metal you're working on in its fully annealed state? It will be much softer then. Also, make sure you never apply pressure on the return stroke. You can let the file skate over the blade on the return to form a rapid sawing motion, but only apply pressure on the forward stroke. The back face of the file teeth will not cut and you will only damage your file by applying pressure on the back stroke. Ideally you should slightly lift the file on the back stroke and place the tip back on the work surface at the beginning of the forward stroke. With practice this becomes nearly as fast as the typical hand saw motion.

If you do all that and chalk and clean with your file card- and your files still wear out- don't buy those files from that place again. They must really be craptastic.

P.S. If hand files are going to be your primary shaping tool for the next year or more, it's absolutely worth it to spend more and get quality like US Made NOS ( new old stock) or the higher end files mentioned in the thread above. Properly used, they should save you money in the long run over cheap but disposable files.
 
Last edited:
Schleifstein said:
This seems like a silly question, but is the metal you're working on in its fully annealed state? It will be much softer then. Also, make sure you never apply pressure on the return stroke. You can let the file skate over the blade on the return to form a rapid sawing motion, but only apply pressure on the forward stroke. The back face of the file teeth will not cut and you will only damage your file by applying pressure on the back stroke. Ideally you should slightly lift the file on the back stroke and place the tip back on the work surface at the beginning of the forward stroke. With practice this becomes nearly as fast as the typical hand saw motion.

If you do all that and chalk and clean with your file card- and your files still wear out- don't buy those files from that place again. They must really be craptastic.

P.S. If hand files are going to be your primary shaping tool for the next year or more, it's absolutely worth it to spend more and get quality like US Made NOS ( new old stock) or the higher end files mentioned in the thread above. Properly used, they should save you money in the long run over cheap but disposable files.
Click to expand...

Not a silly question, but you will get a silly answer... I don't know, I'm working on cast offs and mystery metal from a machine shop, most of which they don't even know what is. I can tell you this much chrome moly does not file easily lol

In any case I believe that the files are just not up to snuff as they have (since new) had a hard time even shaping stabilized wood and micartas. Files will pretty much be my only tool... so yes quality will be a must.

Oh I know it's just blah blah at this point, but I went the elcheapo route because I wasn't too sure how deeply I wanted to get into this. after many "practice" pieces and what not, I'm ready to go to the next step and pick up the quality tools that will make life easier =)
 
Great! Then, my advice is to start working with fresh steel from a reputable knife supply. Steel from these sources should be annealed and ready to cut into. Your tennis elbow will thank you. If you read through these forums you'll find that mystery steel winds up being an expensive time waste for us beginners. Good high carbon (1084, 5160 to name a couple) steel makes great blades and is very cost effective. I wouldn't even attempt S30-V or CPM- 3V and other "super" steels with my current skill level and basic setup. Read and ye shall find.
This sticky thread will be your best bet starting out:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...reads-All-The-Good-Info-You-Want-In-One-Place
 
Schleifstein said:
Great! Then, my advice is to start working with fresh steel from a reputable knife supply. Steel from these sources should be annealed and ready to cut into. Your tennis elbow will thank you. If you read through these forums you'll find that mystery steel winds up being an expensive time waste for us beginners. Good high carbon (1084, 5160 to name a couple) steel makes great blades and is very cost effective. I wouldn't even attempt S30-V or CPM- 3V and other "super" steels with my current skill level and basic setup. Read and ye shall find.
This sticky thread will be your best bet starting out:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...reads-All-The-Good-Info-You-Want-In-One-Place
Click to expand...

Haha, how did you know about the tennis elbow... I've read through the stickies multiple times, have that one and the one from the count bookmarked (v30 not sure if he's updated it lately lol). I'm a bit broke at the moment after an impulse buy thanks to RyanW,

Anyways, I've been told that 1084 is the way to go when first starting out so I'm gonna get some from the NJSB, I'm not sure how long it'll take to get here, but I'm thinking I'll get the files and some good carbide drill bits in a week, and order my steel the week after.

Thanks for the tip on the new old stock, and minding the country of origin, and thanks to every one else who chimed in.
 
Harbor freight has a HUGE selection of files but if u dont have one locally you could order some on their website or you can find them at almost any hard ware store (homedepot , lowes , etc
 
I picked a small set from Home Depot that contained a number of files including flat mill, half round, some smaller ones, a rasp and 2 handles for 10 bucks. I added a Nicholsons bastard and wood handle for fast removal and am good to go. The cheap one's have lasted well too.
 
Scored about 6 files today at a garage sale. 1 dollar a piece, all american made from various makers. Seem to have about 60 percent life left if not more. Good enough. When I am done with them probably be turned into knives. Have not had a chance to make a file knife yet.
 
I have had good luck with new Nicholsons, the Simonds have been case hardened crap. I also use Grobet, Valenite, and Freidrich Dick files. Make sure your steel is spheroidize annealed if you are planning to file. That old thing about heating up the steel and cooling it really slowly in ashes, vermiculite, etc. does not work, it gives you lamellar pearlite (little tiny flat carbides in soft iron that ruin drills and files and do nothing good) in most knife steels. Google Spheroidize annealing (balling up your carbides into tiny particles that get out of the way easily)

-Page
 
sunshadow said:
I have had good luck with new Nicholsons, the Simonds have been case hardened crap. I also use Grobet, Valenite, and Freidrich Dick files. Make sure your steel is spheroidize annealed if you are planning to file. That old thing about heating up the steel and cooling it really slowly in ashes, vermiculite, etc. does not work, it gives you lamellar pearlite (little tiny flat carbides in soft iron that ruin drills and files and do nothing good) in most knife steels. Google Spheroidize annealing (balling up your carbides into tiny particles that get out of the way easily)

-Page
Click to expand...

Umm, I was planning on getting the steel from NJSB, I've been told that it's workable out of the box... I'll ask about spheroidize annealing when I place my order...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top