File Work Toot

[mattd]

A member in a previous file work discussion requested a tutorial on how i did a "twist pattern" design.

After profiling I use lay out dye and a micrometer to mark out two lines along the spine. One at 1/32" and another at 1/16".

I then mark my starting point and a line 3/4" up the spine. This distance works with a 1/4" file and 5/32" blank.
View attachment 422845
Start slow so the file doesn't skip and clean it often so you don't get pieces of medal making deep scratches.

I try to keep the file as level as possible to the spine and go as deep as the 1/32" line that I marked on both sides of the knife. Don't go too deep, you can't get it back. To start the second groove I measure and scribe a line about 1/32" parallel to the first groove and then deepen the mark with a triangle file. The line/guide for the second groove gets placed much closer to the first than you might think.

 

[mattd]

After making second groove check to see if it is as long as the first.

Continue filing grooves until finished. I like to bend the grooves around the spine a bit so I go back and file in line with the work already done but with the back of the file up (30 degrees-ish) so that the corner of the spine is ground off to the second line that was scribed at the start. The 1/16" one.

After I have filed the corners I try to match the original groove with the angled one to a smooth, round transition.
When the design is to my liking I start sanding using the file as my sanding block and oil. On this knife I started at 320 grit and finished at 1500. As I go through the grits I use my magnifying glasses and a sharpy to find and mark scratches from the previous grit that I missed.

I go to 1500 grit because I would like a mirror finish on this knife but want to limit my time on the buffer so that the high spots on the spine don't get washed out. Just a quick touch with the white compound after H/T. That reminds me. After H/T I clean up the file work with 1500 grit and then tickle it with the soft wheel. This picture is pre HT but I put it on the buffer for the toot.

A way to avoid some issues with attaching scales to the file work is to let your design sit above the scales so your hard work is visible and the knife is easier to clean. You can decide for yourself if this creates a "hot spot", but I don't notice it. I chose these scales because I like how the grain of the wood and the file work match.

I have done this tutorial for a few reasons. One, a member requested it. Two, I would like to give back to a community that I owe so much. Three, I would like to hear feedback on my process so that I can get better as well as whom ever reads this.

 

[mattd]

View attachment 422933Here are some pictures I forgot to attach.


Here is a different knife but the same style of file work.

 

[Hengelo_77]

Thanks a lot it´s very inspiring.
On a hidden tang the scale/hot spot thing won´t be an issue. I´ll give it a go soon

 

[Perrin]

Very cool, thank you.