files and sandpaper

J

John Frankl

Joined
Oct 16, 2001
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I am playing with finishing some forged blades with only files and sandpaper/stones. I have access to a great shop over here, but no real time to be in it. So I am trying to do some work at my desk.

Following a single-cut mill file, which lays down a pretty darn good basic finish!, what grit paper/stones would you recommend starting with?

Thanks
 
I just want to say I'm a huge fan of files, and feel that they are often an underutilized resource by many makers who tend to think that machine powered equipment is always better than hand-tools, but it's hard to match the level of "feel" and control you can get with a good file.

Anyway after I file I usually go to 220 grip paper and work my way up from there but the grit you start with also depends a bit on the cut of the file and the pressure you applied while filing. If you really lean into it with an aggressive file you'll have some deep cuts that probably require a much lower grit to sand out...
 
I'd add in to consider chalking the file. 220gr seems to work off of a good file finish, but those deep stray scratches could be galling.

Take care, Craig
 
I've been wondering about this myself. I don't really have a grinder that will cut anything thicker than 1/8" in a reasonable amount of time. Can a large, coarse bastard file be used to make knives out of 3/16" or 1/4" stock?

I recently used a rasp to shape a wooden handle, and it worked beautifully, and was as fast or faster than my little 1x30 sander. Pretty good finish after I got the hang of it. There were some deep digs from my initial learning curve though. Also, can rasps be used on Micarta or Dyamondwood?
 
I like to finnish off with draw filing to have the bevel flat and smooth.
Then start with grit 120 or 180 depending on how well I've filed :)
 
I'm a pretty new maker, only been at it for about a year solid now. Everything I have done is All by hand, with files and sandpaper. It started out as a nice way to relax after a long day at work and a creative outlet that was still "tough enough" ;).

me2: You can use a rasp/bastard file on Micarta, but need to be carfull of getting to close to the edge because you can take out a chunk of steel with 1 swipe and it really sucks. Also have to be careful if you are using one on highly figured or burl wood, I've had a couple bad chunks pop off due to to heavy pressure on the file.
 
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