Filework for dummies

You'll get a lot better info from others on this board, but on the first blade I fileworked, I just got a couple of files and started at it, keeping the pattern very simple. I used a rat tail file. On a hardened blade, you'd probably need to use a Dremel.

Ryan

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For the wages of sin is death; but the gift of God is eternal life through Jesus Christ our Lord.

Romans 6:23


 
I've made some futile attempts to place some file designs on the backstrap of a knife I'm making for my son. The more I do it the more I like it but I'm almost to the point of scapping the knife and starting a new one (I'm running out of room).

I started out with the idea of placing a couple of notches above the end of the grip but it turned into an entirely different design.

My suggestions to you would be to select a design (draw it out if you want to), a couple of pieces of cold rolled steel with similar dimensions to the knife you want to decorate, select the type of file(s) you think may accomplish the job, and spend a couple hours practicing. Take note of the files that you use to get the design you want and the next step is the real thing. Duplicate the pattern the you did on the CRS (it will be considerably slower with hardened steels if you can get them to cut at all). If all else fails, do the same as above with the Dremel tool and bits.

The only really good advice I ever got it my life was that it's unlikely that I'll get it right the first time so have patience, go slow and enjoy yourself...works with kids, animals and women so it should work on blades.

All the Best

Dileas Gu Brath
 
Dav, you are wise beyond your posts!

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It's only a mistake if you fail to learn from it!
 
I know it's not the old fashion way, but it's alot easier to do your carving with a dremel moto tool and a flex shaft. I use the heavy duty cut off wheels for fixed blades and the real thin ones for smaller stuff like folder parts. Just be sure to have and use a good full face shield and at least a two band dust mask if not a respirator.
<img src=http://members.aol.com/l6steel/ebay/zas.jpg>
This is a simple pattern of zig zag lines with scallops in between. I do the scallops on the sharp edge of one of my contact wheels but they could be done with a sanding drum or grindstone in a dremel.
/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ This is the zig zag pattern I'm talking about. Even though it's real simple, it looks very nice after buffing. To get the lines even and in the right place, put a piece if masking tape over the edge to be carved and mark it off in 1/4" or 3/8" increments and draw the pattern in. Use that as a guide for cutting . Keep working at it and experimenting with different designs and you'll find one that might end up your trademark design. Take care! Michael



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Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!http://www.nebsnow.com/L6steel
 
I do stock removal so I use my barstock before I cut my profiles out and practice new patterns on the part that is going to wind up in a pile of grinding dust on the floor. This way I can see what the pattern will look like on that particular thickness of steel without wasting any. I use Grobet needle files and chainsaw files to make my patterns, but I have never tried doing any file work after hardening. Don't know if this will help. Just takes lots of patience and don't attempt it when polite company is present.
biggrin.gif
 
I have found that a properly differentialy heat treated blade will filework without alot of trouble.There is a very good article about the how to's of filework at http://www.knifeart.com It gives you patterns to try and all the files you will need for each style.I do all my filework after heat treating.You can check out some of my filework at http://bladesmithing.isfun.net (I havent figured out how to post a picture on one of these posts yet)Hope this helps
Sorry i just can't seem to cut and copy...Dummie I know...Oh well if your interested the link works.
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[This message has been edited by beknives (edited 04-20-2000).]

[This message has been edited by beknives (edited 04-20-2000).]

[This message has been edited by beknives (edited 04-20-2000).]
 
Okay, I'm new to customizing knives and stuff, so please forgive my ignorance. I was confused about this whole thread, though. Can filework be done after heat treating, then? Everyone seems to be referrring to it like it should be done beforehand, so I'd like to know b/c I want to do some filework, too!
 
Thrawn,Yes it can be done after heat treating it is alot harder to do and easier to let the file slip.You will dull files alot faster also.If you use a Dremal tool it can be done at any time.Good Luck and just do what works best for you,Try different Ideas and dont give up.....Bruce
 
Thanks for the info, Bruce. I happen to have a Dremel w/ a flex shaft (it sucks, though, I have to stretch the shaft out for it to spin). What heads should I use, then? And would it be easier on a mild steel like 5150 than on something like 1095? I was thinking of maybe a zig zag pattern, but am unsure as to what head to use and at what speed I should use for the Dremel. Thanks!
 
I have found that when using a dremal tool the steels dont matter as they can be pretty agressive.As for the heads to use ,the best I can tell you is to get some scrap steel,Brass,aluminum,or anything even wood and try your different heads and see what they will do,Be creative,try not to make your patterns to tight or busy.I have had luck with a 'tile cutter bit'and the different cutting discs,but for diff. designs you have to "experiment" Look at other designs in magazines and try it.GOOD LUCK.E-mail me if I can be of any more help.You can get some ideas off my web site if you would like http://bladesmithing.isfun.net
 
Lay out your filework with a felt-tip “Sharpie” marker (for example every ¼”) I use routers mounted to my workbench that have rotary carbide files installed. Picture here. Go down one side of the blade putting ½ round notches where your marks are. Maybe stagger then (in between) coming down the other side. Now you can take a triangle file and make small notches beside each ½ round and again on the other side. Now go back and stretch the notches out by rolling the file around the corner while lengthening the notches. This makes a vine pattern.
StPt.jpg

‘Z’ patterns are opposite triangles.
zfile.jpg


Be creative.
TKSRfile.jpg


Once blades are hardened they become harder than the files and abrasives must be used or you'll wear out a lot of files. I do fancy stuff before heat treat; simple stuff can be done after. Practice makes you better. One tip – count file strokes per notch to help ensure uniformity.
Rough files leave rough scratches; smooth files smoother scratches. The smoother the better. Keep your files clean. Clogged files tear metal. My favorites are small round files and triangle files.


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Gene Osborn
Center Cross Metal Works
For the word of God is living and active. Sharper than any double-edged sword...
Hewbrews 4:12
 
For a nice easy file work notch type (modify later) just take a chainsaw file and a rod the same size. Take two small blocks of steel . Drill them together with the same size drill as the files. Then tap them for screws to hold the file and the rod. Put one block on each end . Make the drilled holes the spacing you want for the notches. Then make you first notch. Put the rod in the notch and make your next notch with the rod as a guide in the first notch and so on and so on..
This will give you good spacing. The blocks can be modifed to fit most files.
You can do this with a dremal also . Just make a fixture to fit with a spacer rod as a guide for the next cut and attach it to your dremal.

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[This message has been edited by Darrel Ralph (edited 04-21-2000).]
 
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