Filipinio Tang Question?

fitzOdaggers

fitzOdaggers

Joined
Sep 25, 2008
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Could anyone shed some light on what the traditional Filipino process of securing the Blade to Handle consists of?

in my research i have come accross terms like "Blind Tang" and descriptions of "Heat Sinking."

I am assuming that this type of construction is fully functional but if anyone could post some detailed info, maybe photos or pics??? it would be much appreciated... Thanks:D

i am looking to purchase my first Ginunting:thumbup:
 
I think they heated the tang and burned out a cavity in the handle with it, then coated it with glue and hoped for the best.....:rolleyes:
I have an old dao, and it seems to be made using the same method.
Most seaxes were made the same way, I suspect they had some very reliable glue for this to even be an option... If it was me, I'd have to put a pin through it, too, I just don't trust glue that much.
 
i have heard that... but traditional filipino weapons were used and are still used very effectively as combat weapons. I have seen barongs and palays handle some serious impact with no ill effects... that is why i wanted more detailed info about the construction techniques. it is a mystery it seems;)
 
Back before this forum (on the farm) I have burnt tangs onto handles (not knives but other farm implements) and just the friction of burning them on is very tight. Heat it to a red, and push into the wood, repeat if necessary. It won't hold on forever and could ruin the temper of your blades but it is very solid if done correctly. It does help to soak the handle in oil of some sort (mineral, tung...) to get some swell around the tang as well.
 
I've found burning the tang in works much better when I drill a hole first, about 1/8 or 5/16". That should have been 5/32"

One thing to keep in mind is that you have to stuff the epoxy into the hole with something thin to get it all the way in, if you just coat the tang, as soon as it makes a seal around the hole the pressure build up will push the epoxy out instead of going in.
 
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thanks for all the info.. and those pics are very useful Marion:thumbup:

I still cant wrap my mind around how a 17-21 inch blade attached to a 7 inch handle in that manner could hold up to serious chopping, hacking, and blade to blade contact... i have seen it done, but i just dont get it:confused::confused:
 
My little dao survived my teenage years, which is quite a testament to good craftsmanship, even if the tang is tiny with nothing holding it together but glue and friction. My only real complaint about it is the handle is round in cross-section, and therefore awkward to use without constantly checking edge alignment.

Have you ever examined the tang on a tulwar? Same basic setup. A traditional Woodhead and Butcher style bowie? Lots of pins, but not one passing through the tang... This system has been used by many cultures throughout history, and they seemed quite content with it.

We modern makers, maybe we tend to overbuild things, but I am unable to stop myself from making a hidden tang as large as I can with at least one form of mechanical attachment, sometimes 2 or 3.... I suspect the smiths of the past would criticize me for wasting steel...
 
GHEzell said:
We modern makers, maybe we tend to overbuild things, but I am unable to stop myself from making a hidden tang as large as I can with at least one form of mechanical attachment, sometimes 2 or 3.... I suspect the smiths of the past would criticize me for wasting steel...
Click to expand...

Yes, modern smiths do. How many of the full tang knives out there will ever get within even 20% of their max load?

And yes, smiths of old would have, but in our modern age of plenty, I prefer the way knives are made now.

But, I think all things need moderation. I love mortise tang knives, and you can build them with a mechanical attachment, but I love have nothing but handle in my hand.

Marion
 
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