fill bolster tang solder - imperfect line

HSC ///

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Tried a long brass bolster solder.
Worked for the most part and got a solid mating of bolster/tang.
After finishing grinding, I can see that I didn't get a perfect solder line.

Suggestions on how to fill at this point? This is primarily for a good finished look.

thanks

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hi, sorry that happened. i have encountered the same thing before. even when making sure things are ultra clean and having washed in dawn dishwashing liquid, it still happens. i do not have a suggestion to fill them, but if i grind off a milimeter of thickness, most of them dissapear, it seems they are on the surface. maybe try a few passes with a 400 belt and see if they get smaller.
 
Hey there Harbeer!

Is the bolster made from 2 pieces or 1?

2 pieces: get them as flat as possible, disc grinder preferably

1 piece: slot with a fresh slitting saw, make sure the spindle is perfectly square with the vise. If the tolerances are good, you should be able to slip the guard on, shoot for .003 over. You won't need to solder.

Hope this helps. :thumbup:
 
Not sure if you have enough solder to work with, but you might be able to push the surrounding solder into the holes with a center punch and light hammer taps...

Jesse

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
 
Hey there Harbeer!

Is the bolster made from 2 pieces or 1?

2 pieces: get them as flat as possible, disc grinder preferably

1 piece: slot with a fresh slitting saw, make sure the spindle is perfectly square with the vise. If the tolerances are good, you should be able to slip the guard on, shoot for .003 over. You won't need to solder.

Hope this helps. :thumbup:

hi Marcus

it's a one piece saddle of brass, there was too much clearance in the fit, I even had to shim it :-(
This was my first long bolster like this, I had forged the tang too thin
Next time It will be a better fit
 
Not sure if you have enough solder to work with, but you might be able to push the surrounding solder into the holes with a center punch and light hammer taps...

Jesse

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

oh yes, of course
I'll take a look and maybe give it a try
 
The best gap is .003" for highest strength and best capillary action !!
 
Sometimes, a wider/ imperfect gap can also be filled with JB Weld. I've soldered gaps as large as .015"- .030" back in the day successfully, problem is the long bolster. 3/8" guard stock is probably max. for soldering reliably.

I would recommend a cold fit for long bolsters. Make sure the tolerances are good, and you won't have to use anything at all.

For larger gaps, we're all human .... if you coat the inside of the guard with JB Weld, and the tang, then assemble with two 3/32" pins at the top of the guard, when peened together, it will squeeze out all the excess epoxy. Clean up with Q-Tips and WD-40 when the epoxy starts to get gummy, around 15 mins (works great for working in batches). When the JB dries, it has a way of hiding gaps.
 
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