Fillet Help

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Dec 24, 2014
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So I'm building a knife as a gift for a neighbor. Its a 7" fillet made from .07 Aeb-L. As there is much better flex in this one from my last fillet I attempted, I am worried about the handle strength. This was the last bit of .07 steel I had, so I had to make it into a hidden tang. My worry is, since it is Aeb-L, I cant just anneal the tang and drill for a corby after the handle is on, so I'm looking for ideas to make the handle strong enough to handle the blade flex.

I was thinking of cutting the block into scales and then channeling each side for the tang, but I'm not sure how the two pieces will blend with simple epoxy....

As I had this in my mind from the start, I luckily drilled 2 holes prior to HT just in case.

Any help would be great.

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I was thinking of cutting the block into scales and then channeling each side for the tang, but I'm not sure how the two pieces will blend with simple epoxy....
I've always liked this method... as long as the inner face of each slab is perfectly flat, the epoxy line should be nearly invisible. Or, you can add a contrasting spacer between the slabs...
 
Hm. I've never thought of putting a spacer in there. Now few questions for the channeling. Should I channel one side and leave the other flat? Or channel both for half the thickness? Also, whats the best way to make the channel, is I dont have a mill. Chisel and files I'm guessing is the only practical way.
 
Make the spacer tang thick, leave the scales flat.
 
You could do a mortised tang, or a frame handle. As have been described.

Here is a mortised tang that I did. I split the handle in half, then chiseled out a pocket in both halves for the tang to fit in. I actually flipped the handle half's over so that the grain was not aligned. I liked the look. If you do it this way, don't chisel the two sides equally. Instead, allow the tang to sit further into one of the sides so there is less pressure on the glue joint.

IMG_3896_zpsdhrjfnop.jpg


The easier way is to do a frame handle. The spacer piece in between the two handle scales is the same width as the tang, and is cut out to allow the tang to fit snugly inside.

IMG_3963_zps54neknv6.jpg


Eta: or you could do a regular hidden tang by drilling and broaching the tang hole in the handle.
 
I usually drill after the handle has been assembled but, I don't have the equipment to drill through hardened steel.
I will try out one of these methods. I'm liking the thick spacer look. I may do that.
 
Hm. I've never thought of putting a spacer in there. Now few questions for the channeling. Should I channel one side and leave the other flat? Or channel both for half the thickness? Also, whats the best way to make the channel, is I dont have a mill. Chisel and files I'm guessing is the only practical way.

I do 90% of the work with a dremel (using various bits), followed up with chisels and knives for a nice tight fit. If your going to use a spacer, carve 1/2 in each scale, otherwise it hardly matters....
I like to add a few extra pins to help hold everything together.
 
Update:
It turned out pretty nice. I put 2 G10 spacers in between as all I had was .03" sheet. The side profile of the handle I dont like as I didn't know what to do up by the guard to make it flow a little nicer. But everything else turned out great, and my neighbor loved it, so I'm happy.

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PS: sorry about the extremely relaxed pics, these were just quick ones I took to show a few people. Didn't actually get any other good pics before I gave it away. That and I have decent lighting by my spot in the living room. :D
 
That came out well. The handle is still a tad "square" for my taste, but should work fine. I shoot for a cross section that is basically and egg shape or oval.
 
That came out well. The handle is still a tad "square" for my taste, but should work fine. I shoot for a cross section that is basically and egg shape or oval.

Thanks Stacy & Lu. Yes I'm still getting use to hidden tang handle shaping. I'm getting better though. Starting to feel more and more comfortable with each one I build.
 
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