fillet knife HT profile first ?

T

Teppojutsu

Joined
Jan 18, 2015
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948
Hey guys here goes.

For a fillet knife with a stock thickness of .070 . Which I'm planning to use 3v.

Should I profile and drill then heat treat before I cut the secondary bevels in? I realize I would have to grind as cold as possible afterward.

Or should I go ahead and cut the secondary bevels to the thickness that peters recommends and send it off?

Just trying to minimize warp issues but I also don't want to mess up the heat treat by trying to wet grinding after .

Any and all help is appreciated :)
 
I make a lot of fillet knives and I always heat treat first then grind the edge bevels. The stock is so thin that it's hard to keep it straight even heat treating befor grinding the edge bevels. I have never made one from 3V but if I did I would attack it the same way.

When grinding just go slow and use fresh belts. I dip in the water bucket after every pass on the grinder. I grind without gloves so it's easy to feel the heat.
 
+1 on what JT said.

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Pablo
 
JTknives said:
I make a lot of fillet knives and I always heat treat first then grind the edge bevels. The stock is so thin that it's hard to keep it straight even heat treating befor grinding the edge bevels. I have never made one from 3V but if I did I would attack it the same way.

When grinding just go slow and use fresh belts. I dip in the water bucket after every pass on the grinder. I grind without gloves so it's easy to feel the heat.
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Thanks JTknives! This is what I was going to do (I did try to search it up first lol) all the threads said profile ,Ht, then grind.

But mete brought up a good point about messing up the temperature on 3v with heat :confused: I planed on either hand filing (would this be a beast?)

OR rigging up a mister but i will listen to you guys.

How is warp when you get 1/16 stock heat treated? (Without bevels)
 
PEU said:
+1 on what JT said.

b3c03ca5fdf36ce74692e1241eac883a.jpg


Pablo
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Awsome blade ! Can I see a straight pic of it? Looks like you went with 1/8 and tapered it?

I don't think the fisherman up here are "as" concerned with flex cause the fillets are so big you really don't need to much flex unless you try to remove the skin even then the fillets are so big it's probably easier then doin smaller fish :)
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Theses guys are about 24 hrs out of the ocean Mabey 2 days from the ocean through the river to my freezer lol
 
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Hey Pablo,

What size fish are those blades for? My brother-in-law catches about 100 reds a year from the Kenai River in Alaska. As I recall, they typically run about 24"long by 8" deep and he likes a 10" knife. Beautiful knife.

Tim
 
tim37a said:
Hey Pablo,

What size fish are those blades for? My brother-in-law catches about 100 reds a year from the Kenai River in Alaska. As I recall, they typically run about 24"long by 8" deep and he likes a 10" knife. Beautiful knife.

Tim
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Probably some big saltwater fish :)

I live in alaska about couple hours from kenai.
The fillet knife I'm designing is specifically designed around salmon :)
 
This is the bigest one I have made. Don't have a lot of call for big fillet knives here. It's forged from a 52100 ball bearing with cocobolo handle.

Photo%20Jan%2012%2C%2011%2058%2016%20AM.jpg
 
JTknives said:
This is the bigest one I have made. Don't have a lot of call for big fillet knives here. It's forged from a 52100 ball bearing with cocobolo handle.

Photo%20Jan%2012%2C%2011%2058%2016%20AM.jpg
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Man really nice .
What was the size of the parent bearing ?

I also want to forge but for my pleasure and keep stock removal more business :)

Also awsome job on that coco bolo .

Can I get a spine shot ?
Trying to get an idea of taper as well
 
This is a good question, and I think there is room to do some grinding pre-HT.
I just sent 10 Gyuto blades out for HT with varying levels of grind, from 0 (profiled) to .025 and all came back in straight condition. This test was with AEBL.
I like some pre-HT grinding as it is a bit easier pre-HT and as you said, you run a bit less of a chance of overheating with less time spent grinding post HT.

If you don't keep your pre-HT grinding straight and even you risk warp. Bumps, humps or dips can cause warp in HT.

There is always the risk of ruining the HT even on pre-ground blades. New sharp belts are key. I spray my belt pretty wet and dip often.
Thin sections are most at risk of course. Slow the belt down as needed in these areas, especially the tip.
YMMV
 
Brock47 said:
This is a good question, and I think there is room to do some grinding pre-HT.
I just sent 10 Gyuto blades out for HT with varying levels of grind, from 0 (profiled) to .025 and all came back in straight condition. This test was with AEBL.
I like some pre-HT grinding as it is a bit easier pre-HT and as you said, you run a bit less of a chance of overheating with less time spent grinding post HT.

If you don't keep your pre-HT grinding straight and even you risk warp. Bumps, humps or dips can cause warp in HT.

There is always the risk of ruining the HT even on pre-ground blades. New sharp belts are key. I spray my belt pretty wet and dip often.
Thin sections are most at risk of course. Slow the belt down as needed in these areas, especially the tip.
YMMV
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THANKS for the tip about the aeb-l as it was suggested to me :)

Excellent answer to my question.

Assuming peters?
 
Teppojutsu said:
THANKS for the tip about the aeb-l as it was suggested to me :)

Excellent answer to my question.

Assuming peters?
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I actually use TruGrit for HT and they have always done a good job, from 59 to 63. That's the range I've tried with them to date.
Fast service on belt shipping too. :)

I hope you post some pics of your work and let us know what you decided to do on the grinding.
I should add that my stock was .130, so a bit thicker (and much wider) than what you plan to use. You might try a couple with varying degrees of grind pre-HT and see how they come out.
 
Brock47 said:
I actually use TruGrit for HT and they have always done a good job, from 59 to 63. That's the range I've tried with them to date.
Fast service on belt shipping too. :)

I hope you post some pics of your work and let us know what you decided to do on the grinding.
I should add that my stock was .130, so a bit thicker (and much wider) than what you plan to use. You might try a couple with varying degrees of grind pre-HT and see how they come out.
Click to expand...

I was rethinking it as well figured I can always take stock off but hard to add on ;)
I will post some work as soon as I can still trying to decide on which grinder to get.
 
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