Filling pores in wenge

I develop a slurry of oil and wood dust with 220 or 320 and the oil and leave it on the handle for a bit, it will become sticky. Then you rub it in the pores and off the handle. You are right, tru oil will become sticky fast, but you should be able to do it with cheaper oils and leave Tru Oil for the finish. I am interested in the pic of your CA finish, if you have some.

It would be great to do a comparison of all finishes on the same wood. @Greenberg Woods this topic could be interesting to you.
Sorry, I can't find a picture of the wenge handle that shows the reflections on the CA filled pores.

The comparison of finishes would be great. I might revisit filling the pores with oil and sanding dust after the summer. The process you describe is pretty much what I tried last time with the only difference that you start at a lower grit than I did. The way I did it has worked well for me on walnut, but the pores seem a lot smaller.
 
Burnt oak

Sand to 120
Burn with flame
Rub with Steel wool
Buff - u can use a cloth to polish by hand
Oil tung or linseed.
Buff or hand polish
Paste wax
That's a nice look. Thank you for sharing your process, I am taking notes and will try it some day.
 
my Opinion is to use Tung oil.. you can thin it a little for quicker dry times.. i use mine without thinner
rub it in wait a few days wipe off any excess wait a few more days .. it fills pores well and gives great protection with a wood like Wenge
If you want to seal it up faster use "Sanding sealer" which is like watered down lacquer but dries in about a hour per layer..
using that you can build up a head and finish in a few days..
 
I used some steel wool on the handle, this softened the edges a good bit and made it feel more comfortable. It also deepened the texture a little. I rubbed in a dab of paste wax and buffed with a rag. I then glued it up using West Systems 105 blackened with graphite and thickened with colloidal silica. I am very happy with the way this turned out, the handle feels great and has some character to it. The blade is a 6" long petty out of AEB-L about 1.5mm thick with a full flat grind and 38mm at the heel. I hand sanded to 400 grit and then used a super fine scotch brite belt on a contact wheel, that seems to hide scratches from use a bit better than the uniform straight line finish from hand sanding.

Thanks everybody for your advice, I really appreciate it.

un1wcvM.jpg
 
I made another handle from wenge the same way for a larger 8" blade. In the first picture below, you can see that some paste wax got stuck in some of the pores. For the longest time, I was trying to get it out using rags, sponges and brushes until it finally dawned on me to hit it with the heat gun. That solved the problem immediately. The second picture shows the same handle after melting the wax.

ubAVoOU.jpg

j3cWN3u.jpg


Here is a picture with the two knives together (before I fixed the handle). I will be taking them back to Germany next week as a present for my mom.

TiVcpIe.jpg
 
I made another handle from wenge the same way for a larger 8" blade. In the first picture below, you can see that some paste wax got stuck in some of the pores. For the longest time, I was trying to get it out using rags, sponges and brushes until it finally dawned on me to hit it with the heat gun. That solved the problem immediately. The second picture shows the same handle after melting the wax.

ubAVoOU.jpg

j3cWN3u.jpg


Here is a picture with the two knives together (before I fixed the handle). I will be taking them back to Germany next week as a present for my mom.

TiVcpIe.jpg
The change before and after heat is incredible. Very elegant!

PS I still use your KITH knife a lot, hit me on PN for more feedback!
 
The change before and after heat is incredible. Very elegant!

PS I still use your KITH knife a lot, hit me on PN for more feedback!
I got an error message "You may not start a conversation with the following recipients: FredyCro". Other recipients seem to work, maybe your box is full?
 
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