Final Buffer set-up question

WinDancer

WinDancer

Joined
May 15, 1999
Messages
720
You folks have been a huge help this past six weeks. I finally have most of my buffers set up and working the way I want them to.

I have one more 8 inch, double ended with the sewn wheels, and would like to use it for removing scratches from factory blades, leaving a satin finish.

What 2 abrasives do I use for buffing wheel 1, to remove the scratches, and wheel 2, to clean up the first abrasive and leave the satin finish? And where can I buy them,. please?

Can you be specific enough that whoever I order it from will not burst out laughing when I tell them what I want [I hate when that happens]
smile.gif


Thanks again for all your help!

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Regards, Dave

WinDancer@OlyWa.net

www.olywa.net/windancer/webknives.htm
 
Dave
I am going to suggest using 3M products for both jobs. 3M has an extensive dealer network around North America and can be found in the phone book.

Scratch removal is a snap with their Clean and Strip wheels. This is a black non woven product with abrasive included. It will leave a scratch of its own so it is best to follow the original scratch pattern on hte blade during scratch removal. This material is aggressive.

A second option for scratch removal is ithe use of a unitized wheel in a medium coarseness configuration. Same instructions.

Blending and finishing is done with a fine unitized wheel. If you want to tone this finish down a bit put a little polishing compound on it. The result will be a bit shinier but scratch blending will take a lot longer.

Some people glue walrus hide to a wooden wheel and coat it with glue and aluminum oxide dust from a sandblasting supplier but I have no direct experience with this method and wouldn't have any idea where to get walrus hide.

Don't laugh it works.

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george
www.tichbourneknives.com
sales@tichbourneknives.com

 
Brownell's has a greasless compound that works well. It's called Polish-o-ray and
comes in 130, 340, and 550. You can use
standered sewn buffing wheels and the 550
will leave a nice even satin finish. The only
draw back is it needs to be refridgerated
and kept in a plastic bag when not in use.
It takes about a minute on the wheel to dry
before you use it. The process takes abit but
It will take out some nasty stuff and make it look nice.

goshawk

------------------
http://www.imt.net/~goshawk The race is not always to the swift, but he who hangs loose.
Don't walk in tradition just because it feels good!!!!!

 
I am really trying hard to stay with just buffing wheels on finished, factory blade cleanup. I am not steady enough or experienced enough to put a completed blade on a hard wheel.

Anyone have a web address or phone number for Brownell's?

Thanks
 
Jackson Lea has a similar product I think but I didn't suggest it because some buffers which have capacitor start motors will not handle it. In order to apply it the buff must be running slowly, slowing down or starting up, both high torque situations and in my case with a baldor buffer it burns out the capacitors.

------------------
george
www.tichbourneknives.com
sales@tichbourneknives.com

 
Unitized wheels are Scotchbrite wheels where strips of scotchbrite are wound around the center core and glued to keep the whole thing together. Because they are wound there is a direction of rotation that must be obeyed or the whole thing comes apart.
They are semisoft so chatter is not a problem. They are available from your local 3M dealer.

------------------
george
www.tichbourneknives.com
sales@tichbourneknives.com

 
PHONE# FOR BROWNELLS-ORDERS;1-515-623-4000
OFFICE; 1-515-623-5401
ANOTHER SOURCE FOR KNIFE SUPPLIES IS SHEFFIELD'S KNIFEMAKERS SUPPLY.
PH#; 1-904-775-6453

[This message has been edited by mwmhandmadeknives (edited 28 July 1999).]
 
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